1967 427

Not sure what the designer had in mind, but obviously the deep cutout is for the switch, I used the shallow cutout to lay the wiring in. Once I had the switch mounted, I taped over the crossover opening area between the switch and mounting relief, then I poured non-conductive epoxy on the switch. I did about 4 layers of epoxy to fully encapsulate the switch and filled the channel, which acts as the strain relief. When the final layer was setting up, I took a course file to shape the back side. Then sanded to a nice finish. Sorry no images. Also, the printed part does have a nice fit to the yoke, but I added some double sided tape in the pocket to help secure it to the yoke. My fat thumb was more than the double sided tape could handle, so I switched to a small dap of RTV. Now it is mounted like a rock. Absolutely love it.

You may need to confirm your charging system is operating properly

Without knowing if you have had a recent overhaul or new cylinders, I have to agree the battery sounds weak. In the second video no Bendix or starter spinning sounds, again signs of a sick bat. also not an AP mechanic, but a retired mechanical engineer who has live under the hood of may cars

Some people are meant to be caretakers in life. The person who eventually purchases this aircraft is a caretaker. They are the ones who make purchases like this to preserve the history of our Mooney’s. In my opinion this is a plane should be kept as close to original as possible. (Obviously for safety improved radios). I have owned a car for a long time, I am it’s present caretaker, and I tell my wife that she will have to sell it to the right person. (A new caretaker). Short version- If this aircraft meets your mission and you want to take pride in its history, this is the plane for you.

I hated my old PTT button that was Velcro strapped to the horizon section of my yoke. The button was starting to stick on, and I was starting to get in the habit of having to pull the button out after every transmission. I finally had enough of that, now I have to get used to barely touching the button. Absolutely love my new PTT button, thanks for attaching the file to your thread.

Some faith has been restored, great to hear

So back on April 10th, 2024 a topic was created, (LASAR Ordering Intake Ducts for B/C/D/G and E/F Models) and in that comment it was stated that the lead time was 35 weeks. I am really curious of how many people have received their order. So many people stated that they were handing over their cash and ordering their part, I held off on placing an order. 1. If the manufacturer is going to do a run, he isn’t making them to order, he will do a run of that part. 2. My boot is still in very good condition, so I have no sense of urgency. My thought was when people start receiving their orders there will be an overrun and that is when I will purchase mine and place in a vacuum bag and store in a dark place. In over a years time has anyone received any boot, or duct?

What type of material did you use(PETG Filament)?

Awesome, now I have a reason to buy a 3D printer! !

Just found this and since I have more time than money, as I am retired, I have to fun project ahead of me. https://francomarquis.wordpress.com/2019/05/01/aeroflash-strobe-restoration-for-under-15/ Since this is for a spare, it’s not time sensitive.

With this information, does anyone know if the Whelen A427 will fit into the Aero Flashes glass housing? Or should I continue to look for the cheap one?

I have always kept spares on hand in my hangar, oil and air filters, copper crush gaskets and so on. Recently I have been stocking up on light bulbs, but have been unable to identify the type of strobe bulb that I use. Normally I’m pretty good at sourcing part numbers, but this one has me stumped. Below is an image of my strobe bulb. Anyone know the pn and if it’s still available? This bulb fit into a tapered glass housing. The only replacement bulb that I keep coming across is a bulb that has a coil in it and a don’t know if it will physically fit inside the glass housing. Below is an image of an A610, with the coil I mentioned. Does anyone know if my type is still available or is it becoming unobtainium?

Did you measure the resistance in your test leads? They can easily add 1 Ohm to your reading, taking the resultant measurement down to 4.2 Ohms, and keep in mind the last time your meter was calibrated. But what do I know, I was am ME, not an EE.

Actually I think it’s this one https://www.ebay.com/itm/205165708619 most used ones have internal damage from improperly cut cotter pins that cut thru the cap