M20Doc

Ive seen that as well, it conflicts with the IPC's Clarence

I just rechecked the IPC’s for the long bodies, M20R M20S M20TN M20U and M20V. All say RG24-15M, the older ones also say Gill G-243, non say RG24-15 and non show use of the aluminum hold down bar. Clarence

We cleaned all of the grease out, the only piece of contamination was the broken tooth. Clarence

That’s a good question and not a value I’ve ever checked. The factory pressure pick up is on the finger screen body, where are you doing the other pressure check? Have you cleaned the finger screen? Not that it should affect fuel pressure, the factory fitting in the finger screen body has a built in restrictor is it clean? Clarence

It really depends on your maintainer. I’ve had them produce cables for me when the OEM parts are no longer available. Clarence

Nice work on your engine. Nice to see it being fully primed, Lycoming should take note. Even the cheapest cars worth less than a Lycoming engine have better paint. Clarence

Skip, We haven’t replaced them because of a particular failure, but because the others crank a big bore Continental faster for better starting and longer starter adapter life. The Lycoming versions generally work quite well, I’ve replaced one due to actual failure. Clarence

That explains it. You have to wonder what happened to the left over pieces? I tell my guys it should scare them when they have left over hardware and they better be able to explain to me where it cam from. Clearly there is a lack of training and supervision at the shop that did this to your airplane. Clarence

I’ll look tomorrow, I may have pressure transducer. Clarence

Here is the PoHlist by year and serial number. Clarence

I’ve thrown away at least a dozen SkyTec 3 & 5 in favour of Tempest or TCM versions, I couldn’t give them away, no one wanted them. Clarence

We have no idea what caused the tooth to break off, there was a reasonable amount of grease in the actuator. Clarence

Have a long body in the shop with wing flaps which would jamb and trip the breaker, always in the same place. Nothing was physically stopping the travel, so we disconnected the actuator from the flap torque tube, they were all free. Then we took,the actuator out and opened the back cover. Here is what we found. One missing tooth. Clarence

I showed this thread to my guys this morning to educate them. After that I did some research on batteries, and there is disagreement on applicable batteries. The long body IPC’s show either a Gill G243 or a Concord RG24-15M battery. Both of these are manifold vented batteries, both have a lid with holes moulded into it for the 2 mounting studs and do not use the aluminum hold down bar. The Concord application guide says an RG24-15, this battery uses the aluminum hold down bar and does not have holes moulded into the lid. Interestingly the maintenance manuals do not mention safety wiring the wing nuts in either the removal or installation instructions, not that that removes responsibility for securing the battery, it’s still poor maintenance. I’m curious to know which batteries were installed in the OP’s airplane. If they are RG24-15M, I find it hard to imagine that the batteries could jump off the mounting studs. If they are RG24-15 and the aluminum bar was not installed, I can understand the batteries bouncing around un secured. Installed correctly four wing nuts don’t just come loose on their own. Clarence

As always another interesting read on Mooneyspace. I can’t believe that things you guys are putting up with. Every shop has had issues from time to time, mine included. Sad that so many of the things you guys are relating can be cured with training and some supervision. Clarence