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M20F-1968 last won the day on September 1 2014

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About M20F-1968

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    Won't Leave!
  • Birthday 09/09/1954

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  • Location
    Boston, MA
  • Interests
    skiing, classical music
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  • Model
    M20F 1968, reborn in 2014

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  1. Mooney Training and Opinions

    I sent you a PM. John Breda
  2. Homecoming?

    Anyone know why it was schedule on the same weekend and the Mooney Summit if FL? John Breda
  3. Step Retract Bellows M20C

    Drumstick: Just sent you a PM. John Breda
  4. M20F is the same as an M20J?

    The RayJay system I have for sale is the original RayJay system with the manual wastegate. It was built specifically for the F and E model using the stock cowling. It is really quite easy to install and is essentially a bolt on system. If one wanted to upgrade the cowling, you could use the LASAR cowl closure, or use Sabermachanic's newly developed cowling (or if you can find it, SWTA's STC'd cowling, which is similar to Sabermechanic's cowling since is still uses the original cowling frame and airbox). The system I have is STC'd for the Lycoming IO-360 and I have both STC's, one for installing the system on the engine, and the other for installing the turbo normalized engine into a Mooney E or F model. It makes for a much different airplane. The benefits far exceed those with a powerflow exhaust in that in gives more speed, and given the ability to fly high, much more speed and efficiency up high, along with the ability to overfly weather and pick your best altitude for taliwinds. John Breda
  5. M20F is the same as an M20J?

    The four best speed mods for any F model are: 1) 201 windshield 2) J model cowling (needed for speed mod #3) 3) RayJay Turbo Normalizer (gets you to altitude where you can get > 170 kts TAS 4) Long range tanks (no fuel stops and 1500 mile range) Taken together with modern avionics = a very capable airplane with is also affordable to operate. The other speed mods, gaps seal, etc... are just gravy. John Breda
  6. Ground Power Unit

    My airplane is a 12 volt system so that makes it easier. I do not understand the three wire plug going into the airplane. Pos and Neg DC is obvious. However, the plug has three wires. I understand that the third wire somehow activates a solenoid at the battery so the GPU has access to the bus. Do I have that right? The Alinco units look reasonable, but I am not sure I like an adjustable voltage as it give rise to the possibility of error. The IOTA DLS-45 has 45 amp, and converts 108-132 AC to 13.4 DC. It will charge and automatically drop to float charge. It would be more than enough to do what I want. This unit from Spruce http://www.aircraftspruce.com/pages/el/powersupply/portPowerCharger.php apparently will run the avionics well, but if you want to do anything with audio while on the ground, it inject lots of interference so is not goof for that. I assume the Alinco units, which are marketed towards the ham radio users, would be better with powering audio and providing clean and controlled current. Then there is the unknown for me, if I used a unit like the Alinco or IOTA, how is the third pin wired? Can someone who knows more about this than me chime in? John Breda
  7. Ground Power Unit

    I am looking for a Ground Power Unit (GPU) to allow running of avionics, updating software, etc... without running engine. I have a Battery Minder, but that does not supply enough power. I am thinking 25 - 50 amps of clean power. The aviation ones run about $600.00. There is an automobile company that makes an aviation product (available from Spruce) for about $250.00. Are there other sources of power supplies that can do the job, but do not have the "aviation" word attached to them that raises the price to 1/2 AMU? John Breda
  8. Ground Power Unit

    I am looking for a Ground Power Unit (GPU) to allow running of avionics, updating software, etc... without running engine. I have a Battery Minder, but that does not supply enough power. I am thinking 25 - 50 amps of clean power. The aviation ones run about $600.00. There is an automobile company that makes an aviation product (available from Spruce) for about $250.00. Are there other sources of power supplies that can do the job, but do not have the "aviation" word attached to them that raises the price to 1/2 AMU? John Breda
  9. I have a Robotow electric towbar/tug for sale. I has gotten minimal use as I bought for a second hangar I have in NH (was going to be commuting for a job in NH but that fizzled out) I am now renting the NH hangar. It is part No. 6404, sells new for $1456.00. It is in excellent condition, has Robotow Tug, battery and charger. Charger holds full charge. I have posted some pictures. I am asking $1075.00 plus shipping. You can e-mail me at john.breda@gmail.com or call me at (617) 877-0025. It makes short work of moving the plane, is stored easily in the hangar, and will fold and can be put in the baggage compartment if going on a trip and will need to move plane while away. John Breda
  10. Should I grab this abandoned Mooney?

    I guess I have to chime in on this one. I bought a 1968 F model that sat in a dry hangar in Texas for 26 years. I bought it after speaking with some Mooney shops who suggested I walk away. I then hired Russel Stallings (SW Texas Aviation) to go look at it. He took it apart more than it was already apart, and reported that it was a clean airframe, without corrosion, damage or hail. I knowingly bought it as a project airplane. I can still hear Russel saying to me, "Project airplanes are great, you get what you want in the end." The hardest part of buying a non-flying airplane was finding mechanics on the field who were knowledgeable. When you have a non-flying airplane, you are limited to the local talent, or lack there of. I went through three A&P mechanics who could not do the project at hand (and were less than honest as well). I ultimately found good people. I used a sheetmetal mechanic from Gulfstream who did excellent work, a DER from Eurocopter, two I&A's and A&P and got the airplane flying. Once I got it flying, I found some of the best mechanics and used them, and turned the airplane into what has been appraised as a one of a kind airplane and "probably the most expensive F model out there." I spent the first half of my life as a professional symphony orchestra musician competing for one of 20 positions nationally and was tenured in a position for 8 years. Then I decided to take a more proven route and went to medical school at age 37. The complete restoration of my airplane was at least as difficult as each of my careers (although both more frustrating and more fun at the same time). A mentor of mine told me when I was in my 20's, that it is not the having that is fun, but rather the road to getting there. There is truth to this as well. In the end I have a one of a kind airplane which represents a model that Mooney never made (looks like a modern Mooney, with an IO-360, RayJay turbo, Ovation interior, glass cockpit, a dream panel, onboard Oxygen, Johnson bar and hydraulic flaps) . The avionics are superb and does everything you would expect a J model to do, and more. You have to be sure that you have the time, patience, stamina, finances, love of the project and desire to see it through to the end. My saving grace is I had the resources to turn a difficult project into the end product that I have. If I spent as much time and effort to turn it into an average airplane, it would not have been as rewarding. You will not be able to assess the extent of those resources needed now, but will be clearly apparent when you are involved in the project Your best guess of what it will take to make this into a nice J is only a guess at this stage. My guess is, you will not be able to make this an nice and reliable aircraft for an additional $20,000.00. I would double or triple that amount, and this is only to restore the aircraft back to what it was when it was flying. That does not include any upgrades. That being said, the rebuilding of the plane can be a rewarding experience. You will need a hangar in which to work, and all the shop tools necessary to work on anything on the airplane. You could even use your the experience, under the supervision of your local A&P, to build the hours to get your own A&P license. Then you will have accomplished the restoration of your aircraft and more. Hire good people to help you, and treat them well. My mistake was I hired and managed people from a distance. Bad move. That all got better when I hired excellent mechanics when were good honest people. I hope that helps. John Breda
  11. Step Retract Bellows M20C

    I spoke with Brittain 2 days ago. They have a mold which produced rubber parts that were took think. They are working on that issue and wxpect to be able to supply parts soon. They have a waiting list. I would put yourself on that list at this time. It will also help them assess the demand for the parts. John Breda
  12. Is Bruce's still the Bee's Knee's for covers?

    I Last year I needed to add a third antenna and the manufacturer (a well known maker on the west coast but will not be named) couldn't be bothered with the alteration. Given that I am in Boston, I went to a RI sail maker and got the work done in about three hours locally. No shipping, no hassle, no arrogance. John
  13. Looking for tools and specs

    Depending what equipment you will be putting in, I have a panels which I made but did not use in my F rebuild. One is for steam gauges, and another is for Garmin G600, etc stuff. If you want to send me an e-mail I can probably dig up some pictures. The panels may be useful. John Breda
  14. I have a Robotow tug which I am not using so I am offering it for sale. It is in excellent condition and used very little. These sell new for $1456.00. I am asking $1100.00 plus shipping. I naturally comes with the battery and charger. The battery holds a full charge. I can post some pictures in a few days once I get to the hangar. You can call me at (617) 877-0025 or e-mail me at john.breda@gmail.com Thanks, John Breda
  15. Just happened to me

    Can someone post pictures of the needle and tow limit placard, or other such placards that seem to work. It seems that you would need a direct indication, and no one will take the time and thought to determine what 15 degrees of center really looks and feels like.