M20F-1968

Basic Member
  • Content Count

    989
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    3

M20F-1968 last won the day on July 31 2018

M20F-1968 had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

455 Excellent

2 Followers

About M20F-1968

  • Rank
    Won't Leave!
  • Birthday 09/09/1954

Contact Methods

  • Yahoo
    john.breda@gmail.com

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Boston, MA
  • Interests
    skiing, classical music
  • Reg #
    N954N
  • Model
    M20F 1968, reborn in 2015

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Locate the holes by using machinist's hole finder pins. They can be purchased or made yourself given that you only need a low level of precision (as opposed to +/- 0.001" that a machinist may require). They are essentially a machine screw (or in this case a sheet metal screw) with the head removed, leaving a threaded shaft, one end of which is ground to a point. Install the threaded shaft into the hole in the aircraft with the pointed end facing toward the plastic to be installed. Screw them into the aircraft so they stick out about the right amount as needed for the finish installation (so everything is where it would normally be when installed) and hit the plastic with a rubber mallet or similar device to mark the backside of the plastic. Then, drill your holes. John Breda
  2. What is the difference between these two in terms of teting for water and Jet A? https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/gatsfueljar.php https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/multisump.php John Breda
  3. Did you make the travel boards last year?

    I need a set..

    Ted

  4. I have a RAT (air driven alternator) that uses such struts to push open a door to get the turbine into the wind (mounter on the avionics bay door). The company makes them in many sizes. I am sure one can be used for this purpose. I'll look for the manufacturer's name. John Breda
  5. Why not use a pneumatic piston. This is more of a hardware part. Does it really have to be factory part or copy of a factory part? John Breda
  6. You will be using insurance dollars to get this work done. The vertical stabilizer (and the Mooney flap) are two of the thinnest control surfaces in General Aviation. Beegles has jigs and the experience working on Mooneys to do the work correctly. I would still suggest them as a first choice. They can also get the work done as quickly any anyone (not sure about their availability to do the work however). You likely will want Mooney Engineering to weigh in on if the plane is able to be ferried. John Breda
  7. You have no idea what the internal structure is like in a used vertical stabilizer from a scrap yard. I would "repair" yours. The shop to go to without question is Beegles Aircraft, Greeley, CO. They have been doing structural repairs for a long time. John Breda
  8. The 3M product I used to help make the velcro stick is 3M "Primer 94". It works well. I was at the hangar yesterday but did not get the part number for the Velcro. I will do that as well if anyone wants it. It was a specific 3M velcro for aviation use (I assume meaning the adhesive was different). John Breda
  9. I put my caret in with Velcro. I used a 3M product that makes the surface (carpet and floor) sticky, and used a 3M Velcro product that has a different adhesive and is designed for aircraft. It has worked great. I can get part numbers if anyone would like them. John Breda
  10. I replaced mine less than a year ago. One problem is that the thread length is not long enough in many of the switches. Also, if you have other stuff, such as an auto-pilot disconnect switch and an electric trim control switch on the same side of the yoke you will need a sub-miniature switch (very small). The part number is: ALCO TPC13CO SPST-N/O Momentary Mini Push Switch Aircraftspruce used to sell them for a little over $20.00. I bought a couple extra and may be willing to sell one for $15.00. My mechanic (very Mooney experienced) correctly stated that you do not want a PPT switch to have a click. Too much throw and work to repeatedly activate. He also told me that he has used these Alco switches for may years without problems. This switch feels great in action. John Breda
  11. I do not want to hijack the thread, but is anyone wants to go the extended squitter route for ADS-B compliance, I will be replacing my GTX 330ES with a GTX345. The GTX 330ES provides ADS-b out and can make you compliant. My cell is (617) 877-0025 and e-mail john.breda@gmail.com John Breda
  12. Without an STC option for a second alternator, you might look at this option. https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/turboalt1428.php I have this in my plane as I am turbonormalized and need to keep a scavenger pump on the accessory case. John Breda
  13. XM Weather v. ADS-B Weather? I currently have XM weather, and will be installing a GTX345 which will give me ADS-B weather. As for traffic, I I have an Avidyne TCAD which is active traffic and the GTX345 will give me ADS-B traffic. In the case of traffic information, the GTX345 takes command of the Avidyne TCAD and looks at both traffic sources. If information is duplicative, then it shows one traffic target. if one source augments something that is not coming from the other, it shows that single traffic source which the other did not show. I'm not sure how to whether sources are handled. I suspect one would be able to switch between one source and the other and visually compare them. I also suspect that the XM weather is more reliable than the ADS-B whether. Comments are appreciated. John Breda
  14. To those of you that are looking to be ADS-B Out compliant by the end of the year: I have a GTX330ES I am taking out of my plane as I recently purchased a used GTX345. The GTX330ES is in like new condition and will solve your ADS-B compliance issues for 2010. I am removing it as I am doing some other work behind the panel and found a used GTX345 which will augment my TCAD and XM-weather by giving me ADS-B In and Out. I can be reached at (617) 877-0025 or at john.breda@gmail.com Thanks, John Breda
  15. I do not want the retaining rings that keep these attached as these have to come all the way off to remove the cowl easily. If you use the Skybolt 2000 series, there is a nylon washer that they see that can be put over the back side of the camlock (over the T end) that will allow the camlock to be retracted easily for cowling removal but keep the fastener in their respective holes and stay on the top cowling when it is removed. This is a big help as the length of the camlock used may be different in adjacent holes. You are correct, you do not want the star shaped washer that slides onto the camlock barrel and holds it in one place only. You want the Camlock to move freely in the hole, but not fall out of the hole. John Breda