larrynimmo

I too have both an Aspen & L3….when you look at your L3 it displays your pressure altitude on it....if there are - - - - where the altitude is usually listed, it means your not getting the baro input.

I thought the Garmin fan was part of the tray...not sure though

they have a good reputation and years before I owned my plane, they used to work on it. Another idea, is if you could fly a mooney mechanic to where the plane is, and he could check it out onsite provided the plane is hangered....

I have flown it on a cool day...believe me an M20J near max weight and 95 degree air, that runway is too short if you abort takeoff at rotation Speed. If your really good you might not make it onto rt 50, but you won’t be flying that plane for awhile. as for the vfr flight requirements, it appears to me they were on an IFR flight plan...according to flight aware, or they were going to activate it in the air. We all need to know when we can abort a takeoff...or just go around for a safe landing....and repair the instrument issue

Short runway and on top of rt 50 if you are taking off to the north...I have flown in and and out of there in cold weather...google earth pic

His flight plan according to flight aware

No details

I have a major issue with this....how can a four cylinder engine have compressions for 6? any ppi need to check steel frame below the pilots window for corrosion.

I faced similar decisions on my plane...my recommendation...but a tube of "fuel lube"...clean the areas showing leaks and coat it with fuel lube. This will not cure your problem but It will dramatically reduce the leak rate and odor. As for changing the fuel sender gasket, you need not only the gasket (no one is using cork any more) and you need the sealing plastic bushings...they help it to seal as well.

Ok...I am really good starting the engine cold i am good starting the engine hot. but, I am horrible about starting an engine after flying the plane and the plane sits for like 4 hours. Please tell me a proven method

the kit itself costs over $1,000….my AI removed it from the plane and we shipped it to TopGun and they changed it for 3 hrs labor at $100 an hour...plus they had to replace the manual cable which was an extra $200

also needs to look at the valves for uneven heating...

as much as many would like to imply that owners can't be involved in their planes have to realize that owners with mechanical skills want to take charge of the safety of their plane. point in fact, my first annual inspection of the plane 45 miles from home...flying back the plane reaked of gasoline and when I got back to my home base my plane failed a run-up. I found a lower spark plug wire laying in the bottom of the cowling. Upon further inspection, I found over half of the hardware for the baffles to be less than finger tight. Shortly there after I got water in my fuel for water that leaked through the inside "O" ring for the fuel caps...written in log book they changed the "O" rings....absolute negligence for the $3,000 annual. For the second year, I hired a one man show, who was an absolute great mechanic to do my annual. he did a very thorough job as he went through every system of the plane, and he even laid out the plan for next annual. As he completed the bottom inspection, he told me he was ready to close everything up...my response, I need 10 minutes or so to inspect everything...he smiled at me because he respected the need of the owner to take responsibility to double check safety. Its an airplane, its expensive to maintain it....to a large degree I don't care what it costs to fix it, update it, or modify...I just want it done right, and I feel if I am part of the process, it does make a difference.

in the summer...when I am not in a hurry....I fly at 2,200RPM, 25" 7GPH, and get 125KIAS at about 2,000 ft. lean of peak, 1490 EGT, 380 highest head temperature... Effective air speed about 128K and cruise at above 20 statute miles per gallon.

if you will sell for $1k ill buy it...