bob865 Posted December 28, 2018 Report Posted December 28, 2018 So my prop governor has developed a slow leak at a seal and needs to be IRAN'd or overhauled. It will build up a small puddle of oil on the little shelf and then show up on the nose landing gear door. Talking with my A&P yesterday he indicated that getting the governor out of the plane takes pulling the engine or at least loosening some of the mounting bolts to give enough space to get it off. Does anyone have any insight on this? Maybe some pointers in the expanse we knows as MooneySpace to maybe make this task easier? Quote
RLCarter Posted December 28, 2018 Report Posted December 28, 2018 I know on the C’s you don’t have to pull or loosen the motor Quote
Niko182 Posted December 28, 2018 Report Posted December 28, 2018 Same with the R and the K. No need to remove any mounts on the engine. Quote
aviatoreb Posted December 28, 2018 Report Posted December 28, 2018 But why can’t this be a political thread? I say hell yeah -remove that governor! 1 Quote
CWM20f Posted December 28, 2018 Report Posted December 28, 2018 (edited) Pulled one off my F and didn’t loosen or remove anything else. Edit - possibly the oil filter was removed but can’t remember for sure. Edited December 28, 2018 by CWM20f Quote
N201MKTurbo Posted December 28, 2018 Report Posted December 28, 2018 Remove the cable and the prop oil line. Remove all 8 nuts from the governor and the mount. Work them both off the studs. Curve the whole thing towards the copilots side. Jiggle them a bit and they will all come apart. 1 Quote
FloridaMan Posted December 28, 2018 Report Posted December 28, 2018 Make sure that when you send the governor off that you include the bracket with it and let the prop shop reassemble it with the bracket so you don't have to worry about your A&P breaking any seals. Quote
carusoam Posted December 28, 2018 Report Posted December 28, 2018 Check to see what gov you have... how many hours... The newer light weight versions could be worth looking into... Best regards, -a- Quote
Shadrach Posted December 28, 2018 Report Posted December 28, 2018 (edited) I replaced mine with a PCU 5000. The price is not for the faint of heart ($2400) but it’s way lower profile than the governor it replaces. I would not say that much of what is on the accessory case is easy to get to, but the engine need not be removed nor tilted into the service position. Edited December 28, 2018 by Shadrach 2 Quote
Skates97 Posted December 28, 2018 Report Posted December 28, 2018 I had the exact same type of leak in mine as the OP. I wasn't losing much oil, it just made a mess. I decided that I could send it out and get it overhauled, maybe find out it was going to be really expensive to overhaul, maybe have the plane down for a few weeks and then find out it couldn't be overhauled... Or, I could get a PCU 5000 and have it waiting, for the shop to swap out in a day with no downtime and have a governor that was from the current century. I went the same route as @Shadrachand put the PCU 5000 in. Yes, it was more money, but I plan on keeping the plane for a very long time so it was worth it in my book. I also found a shop that overhauls them that bought my old one from me as a core. 1 Quote
bob865 Posted December 28, 2018 Author Report Posted December 28, 2018 Thanks for the info. Right now, I'm deferring until annual so this gives me some things to consider leading up to annual. 2019 is going to be expensive. Fuel Tanks strip and seal in Feb, Annual with prop governor and shock discs in April and somewhere in there I've got to figure out what to do about my dead KX170B comm 2. Quote
flight2000 Posted December 28, 2018 Report Posted December 28, 2018 (edited) I had mine overhauled in Dec 2015 (67 M20E) and the shop had to loosen the engine mounts to get at it. Maybe there is more room with the others (C, F, or J models), never looked at the back of those before. I had a hard enough time getting my hands back there to clean up the oil let alone get tools back there to remove it. Not saying it can't be done, but wow, more power to them if they managed to figure it out. Brian Edited December 28, 2018 by flight2000 Quote
N201MKTurbo Posted December 28, 2018 Report Posted December 28, 2018 FWIW, The oil pump o-ring in the Hartzell H-1 is about $5.00 and is simple to change. Quote
M20F Posted December 28, 2018 Report Posted December 28, 2018 Redid mine and had to loosen the mounts to get it to slide off the bolts. It is not a fun thing to take on/off. Quote
N201MKTurbo Posted December 28, 2018 Report Posted December 28, 2018 10 minutes ago, M20F said: Redid mine and had to loosen the mounts to get it to slide off the bolts. It is not a fun thing to take on/off. I can absolutely say it can be removed without loosening the engine mounts. Did you loosen the governor mount too? You have take them both off at the same time. The mount will come off its studs first allowing it to tilt. At this point the governor will slide off the mount (drive pad). Quote
M20F Posted December 28, 2018 Report Posted December 28, 2018 5 minutes ago, N201MKTurbo said: I can absolutely say it can be removed without loosening the engine mounts. Did you loosen the governor mount too? You have take them both off at the same time. The mount will come off its studs first allowing it to tilt. At this point the governor will slide off the mount (drive pad). Took it on and off multiple times trouble shooting an issue. I personally think some F’s have longer bolts then others but base that on nothing other then I have heard differing experiences over the years. Mine is a 67. Quote
ArtVandelay Posted December 28, 2018 Report Posted December 28, 2018 I have 2 separate mags and it’s pretty tight, when removing it as part of my overhaul it would not come off, I would not be surprised if it did require the engine to moved to disconnect the peripherals. Quote
1964-M20E Posted December 28, 2018 Report Posted December 28, 2018 I removed mine without touching the engine mounts but you need to remove the oil filter. Still it is a PIA. Don't be shy about grinding and heating/bending wrenches to make them work for you. I use cheap ones for theses purposes. Quote
Shadrach Posted December 28, 2018 Report Posted December 28, 2018 1 hour ago, ArtVandelay said: I have 2 separate mags and it’s pretty tight, when removing it as part of my overhaul it would not come off, I would not be surprised if it did require the engine to moved to disconnect the peripherals. Most of us have separate magnetos. They can certainly be removed without changing the position of the engine. It’s tight and the right mag must be manipulated into a certain position before can be extracted through the engine mount. Left mag is a piece of cake on my airplane. Yours may be a bit more challenging with the rear mounted oil cooler.Left mag is a piece of cake on my airplane. Yours may be a bit more challenging with the rear mounted oil cooler. Quote
Cody Stallings Posted December 30, 2018 Report Posted December 30, 2018 On 12/27/2018 at 6:21 PM, bob865 said: So my prop governor has developed a slow leak at a seal and needs to be IRAN'd or overhauled. It will build up a small puddle of oil on the little shelf and then show up on the nose landing gear door. Talking with my A&P yesterday he indicated that getting the governor out of the plane takes pulling the engine or at least loosening some of the mounting bolts to give enough space to get it off. Does anyone have any insight on this? Maybe some pointers in the expanse we knows as MooneySpace to maybe make this task easier? BS 1 1 Quote
RLCarter Posted December 30, 2018 Report Posted December 30, 2018 4 hours ago, Cody Stallings said: BS Big Screwdriver? 1 1 Quote
Captnmack Posted January 15, 2019 Report Posted January 15, 2019 Just removed mine along with half the airplane too...probably will end up overhauling the engine while I’m at it..... 1 Quote
N201MKTurbo Posted January 15, 2019 Report Posted January 15, 2019 It looks like it is still attached to the engine. Quote
0TreeLemur Posted January 16, 2019 Report Posted January 16, 2019 When the gov. in our C acted up in mid 2018, my A&P removed the left magneto which made access to the gov. much easier. It came right off after removing the left mag., oil filter, and vacuum pump vent. He had to sacrifice the box end of a wrench and do some grinding to get the 1/2" (IIRC) open end wrench to fit. When he replaced it with the PCU5000, the engine studs had to be swapped out because the PCU5000 has a thicker base plate. I helped with that- what a pain. It finally took triple-nutting the existing studs to get them out and to put the new ones in. <read the instructions first>. YMMV. PPSEL advice only, not an A&P. Good luck. Quote
M20F Posted January 16, 2019 Report Posted January 16, 2019 36 minutes ago, Fred_2O said: It finally took triple-nutting the existing studs to get them out and to put the new ones in. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0041ESF2G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_1ZZpCb96SXBNK 1 Quote
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