ryoder Posted August 1, 2015 Report Posted August 1, 2015 I got my Airtex leather interior pieces and I am considering doing them myself or having the local upholstery shop do it. These require some glue and I dnt really know what else to install. Quote
cujet Posted August 1, 2015 Report Posted August 1, 2015 I use 3M, 1357 contact adhesive. It's the right glue for upholstery. But, it does require the right method. Apply properly to both surfaces (not too lean, not too rich) Use masking tape to keep it neat, keeping the glue only where you want it. Pull masking tape. Let it dry until well skinned over. (about 5 minutes) then carefully assemble. You only get one shot. It will remain where it's placed. Some seats require decking material. Watch this video for an interesting example of decking: You can, of course, simply glue it on. Don't use material that will sag. I'd guess that if you are a skilled craftsman, you won't have any trouble. If you are not, bring it to the shop. You will have to live with the results. Quote
ArtVandelay Posted August 1, 2015 Report Posted August 1, 2015 Did you get new foam? I know the foam is glued on, not sure about the leather Quote
ryoder Posted August 1, 2015 Author Report Posted August 1, 2015 I did one seat and it turned out ok. Could have been better. The foam and leather are glued on. I need to do some tweaking with it. The problem is you can't put the glue on the foam to leather area ahead of time because it takes 20 minutes of shimmying to get the leather over the foam. Literally. 1 Quote
Shadrach Posted August 1, 2015 Report Posted August 1, 2015 I think the cover looks good Ryan. However, I'd have repainted the seat frame and the pull before putting the cover on it. Quote
ryoder Posted August 1, 2015 Author Report Posted August 1, 2015 I think the cover looks good Ryan. However, I'd have repainted the seat frame and the pull before putting the cover on it. Yeah I know. I think I'll strip the pull down to polished aluminum. Quote
ryoder Posted August 1, 2015 Author Report Posted August 1, 2015 how much did the airtex cost? Tan Leather seats with foam were $2452. Sand wall panels were $567 Shipping was just over 100. Quote
Shadrach Posted August 1, 2015 Report Posted August 1, 2015 Yeah I know. I think I'll strip the pull down to polished aluminum. That will look nice! Quote
carusoam Posted August 1, 2015 Report Posted August 1, 2015 I watched two technicians... One guy showed me the contact cement routine as described above. Key thing... Wait for the skin. Then, bam! It doesn't come apart, ever. Fixed my old leather box briefcase / 'flight bag'. The other guy showed me wrapping the seat cushion foam with a light polyethylene film (like the stuff the dry cleaner sends your wife's dresses back in...). Slip the wrapped foam into the covers, then remove the film. It magically fills out to the corners. Hope that helps the next guy... Best regards, -a- 1 Quote
ryoder Posted August 1, 2015 Author Report Posted August 1, 2015 I use 3M, 1357 contact adhesive. It's the right glue for upholstery. But, it does require the right method. Apply properly to both surfaces (not too lean, not too rich) Use masking tape to keep it neat, keeping the glue only where you want it. Pull masking tape. Let it dry until well skinned over. (about 5 minutes) then carefully assemble. You only get one shot. It will remain where it's placed. Some seats require decking material. Watch this video for an interesting example of decking: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PWMaRZOvybU You can, of course, simply glue it on. Don't use material that will sag. I'd guess that if you are a skilled craftsman, you won't have any trouble. If you are not, bring it to the shop. You will have to live with the results. Fyi, this procedure is not even close to the one required for Airtex seats. Quote
takair Posted August 2, 2015 Report Posted August 2, 2015 Tan Leather seats with foam were $2452. Sand wall panels were $567 Shipping was just over 100. Ryan. That looks really good. I have hides, but I don't think I could get it done for less. Could you tell us a little more about your experience? Does the price include 2 fronts and the rear bench? Sounds like the foam is separate from the cover? You cut the old foam from the seat? How long did it take you to do that first seat? Thanks for the post. Quote
ryoder Posted August 2, 2015 Author Report Posted August 2, 2015 Ryan. That looks really good. I have hides, but I don't think I could get it done for less. Could you tell us a little more about your experience? Does the price include 2 fronts and the rear bench? Sounds like the foam is separate from the cover? You cut the old foam from the seat? How long did it take you to do that first seat? Thanks for the post. The M20C seats as a full set cost 2500 and that includes foam and leather. To install, take out front seats, disassemble top from bottom. Remove hog rings holding seat back cover in place. Slip cover off and foam is stuck to the seat back with some glue. Remove foam and clean up excess. Installing bottom seat cover (leather is factory adhered to foam but left loose on the sides) Remove plastic rivets holding vinyl seat bottom covers in place and remove cover. Foam is glued in. Remove foam and clean metal. Mine had two semicircular steel springs that acted as a bolster. Remove that by unscrewing attachment points. Now spray glue on the bottom seat cover and metal base and place cover onto base aligning foam with the front of the seat by pushing the foam/leather combo forward till it stops. Do not glue leather to sides of foam as this area squishes when you sit down and they need to move independently) Now squish the back of the bottom covers foam into place and check for alignment. Next pull down hard on the leather on the front of the bottom seat and poke holes into the leather aligned with the existing holes. Push rivets into place going front first then the sides from front to back. Finally secure the back with rivets pulling tight. I used precision screwdrivers as an awl to create rivet holes in the leather. Make two .5 inch holes in the leather to thread the bolt holding the bottom to the seat back. There is a thick washer like piece that acts as a pivot point and it must be clear of leather. Install it in place temporarily as a cutting template. Installing seat back cover (foam is separate from leather) Test fit the foam on the seat back. Fold the foam over the back overlapping in a reasonable fashion. Spray the foam and seat back with glue and set into place concentrating on getting the top into place in the edge of the foam. Push down to seal foam onto back. Take some time doing this. Slip leather covers down onto the seat back with foam in place. (This part sucks. Maybe turning the leather inside out is better) Once the cover is fully in place Velcro the bottom and sides and smooth the appearance out. Reopen the cover Velcro and spray glue onto the interior of the cover and onto the leather (which has a soft liner). I didn't spray any glue onto the sides. Carefully press leather into place starting from the top down. Hold pressure on the leather to seal. Velcro into place when done. Finally connect the seat back to the base. Budget 20 minutes for this as it takes time to line up bolts and sleeves. Pulling up on the seat slider handle can relieve stress on the bolt to help slipping things into place. Also, install one side the wrong but quick way to keep the seat back from moving around when properly installing one side of the bolt, space, and sleeve. Study the bolt setup prior to tear down. Take a pic. Leave one seat assembled for an example. Quote
ryoder Posted August 2, 2015 Author Report Posted August 2, 2015 Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Quote
carl Posted August 2, 2015 Report Posted August 2, 2015 just curious , can you slip a vacuum bag over the foam and suck out the air to shrink it ,then let the air out to reexpand the foam . ? Quote
takair Posted August 2, 2015 Report Posted August 2, 2015 Ryan, Thanks for the details. Think I have my winter project! Would be great if you can post photos of the interior when done. It's going to look great. Quote
ryoder Posted August 2, 2015 Author Report Posted August 2, 2015 Will do. You can call me when you are ready. Just pm for number. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Quote
takair Posted January 4, 2016 Report Posted January 4, 2016 Ryan inspired me to update the nasty, old seats in the plane. Worked with Dodd, at Airtex, to have some old hides made into seat kits. They are great folks to work with and the results exceeded expectations. The work is not hard, but takes some time. Ryan had good instructions above, I deviated in some minor areas (some to my detriment) He mentioned doing the front upper seat covers and rolling on, inside out. This worked really well. I found the back seat most difficult. I wish the upper corner was pre-sewed to shape. The upper corners were tough. Mine are not perfect, but adequate. I ended up screwing and gluing the rear panel in place. There are some minor wrinkles toward the top of all seats. They are worse in photos than real life. There are YouTube videos on how to get them out, but I don't have the nerve. Requires using a heat gun quite extensively. I suspect summer sun will do the same over time. There was a previous thread on how to fold down your rear seat. I had changed the bracket at that time, but it was still difficult to reach the bolt head and the nut. While the skins were off I reinforced the bolt hole and added a nut plate to enable single socket bolt removal. Feel free to contact me for photos. I consider this a minor mod, but your results may vary. i also cleaned up the panel with the arm rest. Reinforced the arm rest in and out and added a cushion. That was a pain, but came out ok. Ashtray came out, thus the mismatched blanking plate. I cut out the bulge to give more leg room so could not do the ashtray light. 2 Quote
Yetti Posted January 4, 2016 Report Posted January 4, 2016 I just pulled apart one of my front seats. Need to measure and start sewing. I think I am going to stick with the 3 panel theme from the back. I am consistently amazed at the simplicity and engineering that Mooney put into these seats and that they came out very light in weight. Quote
carusoam Posted January 4, 2016 Report Posted January 4, 2016 Working with Dodd, 15 years ago, was a memorable experience. I paid too little and got too much in return. They under promised and over delivered (Upod)... Those seats look great! Go Airtex! Best regards, -a- Quote
ryoder Posted January 4, 2016 Author Report Posted January 4, 2016 Great job! Dont worry about the heat gun. Go very very slow and you will realize it can't hurt anything. Continually put your hand on the seats to make sure they don't get too hot. Remember, your clothes can shrink in the dryer without catching them on fire. It doesn't take a lot of heat. I see your from is adhering nicely to the front seat backs. Did you use the airtex provided glue? I didn't and that was a bad idea. Quote
takair Posted January 4, 2016 Report Posted January 4, 2016 12 hours ago, ryoder said: Great job! Dont worry about the heat gun. Go very very slow and you will realize it can't hurt anything. Continually put your hand on the seats to make sure they don't get too hot. Remember, your clothes can shrink in the dryer without catching them on fire. It doesn't take a lot of heat. I see your from is adhering nicely to the front seat backs. Did you use the airtex provided glue? I didn't and that was a bad idea. I didn't get glue with mine, but that might be because I provided the hide. I used 3M spray adhesive, but the photo may not tell it all. It did not stick well to the back between the bolsters. I did trim the foam at the bolsters to try to get it fit tighter, but the middle still lifted a little. I thought about slitting the back to get it to bend around the bolster, that may have helped. I guess you had similar issue? I think I would have to do one or two more interiors to get it right. Unfortunately the glue is not very forgiving since it makes it difficult to remove in most areas, even if it does not stick in others. I have to admit, I probably should have cleaned the seat better before bonding. Also, a very sharp knife or long razor would have been handy for trimming around the bolsters. For those not familiar, the basic seat has sheet-metal bolsters, the foam kit has foam bolsters as well. The sheetmetal is the area that is hard to work around. Did you use heat on yours, is it common to do this? Would a hair dryer work, or does it need to be a heat gun. Quote
ryoder Posted January 5, 2016 Author Report Posted January 5, 2016 I used a heat gun on the seat back corners and it helped. I think I also used it in other areas. My friend brought it out. I also didn't clean the residue off the seat back very well thinking it didn't matter. That seat back is very curved and it almost needs to have sewn in stitches to hold the foam in place. Quote
Steve Dawson Posted January 5, 2016 Report Posted January 5, 2016 I used Airtex a couple of years ago and they were very helpful. All leather and the seats look and feel perfect. I decided to use a local shop only because I wanted them to look right and they do. Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.