Glareshield instrument removal for M20J

[SPEEDMOONEY]

I’m looking for a glareshield instrument removal in good shape for a 1991 M20J S/N 24-3187 

[201Steve]

What is a glare shield instrument removal?

[A64Pilot]

I’m going out on a limb and assume English isn’t a first language, and this may be a Google translation or something.

I believe he’s looking for a removed instrument panel glareshield.

[carusoam]

SM,

Looks like the request may have got lost in translation... 

One thing people do to improve, refresh, or make like new... their Mooney glare shield...

Send it to the place that refurbishes all thing leather in Mooneys...

Send it to Hector at aerocomfort in TX...

Hector has the most amazing skills for refurbishing entire airplane interiors...

Best regards,

-a-

[PT20J]

Unless it is really in very bad shape, there are two routes:

1. Send it to Aerocomfort as Anthony @carusoam suggests. Hector will patch it and cover it and it will look very nice. However, doing that from France may be expensive and time consuming.

2. Repair it yourself. This isn't really all that difficult. It is made of ABS plastic. The glareshield is made of two parts. You can remove the underside by working it free with a  putty knife and/or long bladed knife inserted between the two parts. Obtain some ABS sheet plastic and repair any damaged flat areas by gluing pieces of sheet plastic to the underside with ABS cement made for joining ABS plumbing pipe. Smaller defects or areas with compound curves or that need to flex can be repaired by cutting fiberglass cloth and covering the defect and coating it with ABS cement. Don't apply more cement than necessary to saturate the cloth to avoid softening the plastic too much. Use two or three layers of cloth. After it is structurally sound, turn it over and sand the top smooth. Patch any holes or low spots with plastic filler such as https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-84145-Permapoxy-Black-Plastic/dp/B00THUUVSU?source=ps-sl-shoppingads-lpcontext&psc=1 and sand it down. It may take a few applications. Once it is all smooth spray it with SEM texture coat (there are youtube videos for this) and afterwards sand it and spray it with SEM adhesion promoter followed immediately with SEM satin black color coat (again, there are youtube videos). Glue the two parts back together with silicone glue/sealer (which will hold the pieces together firmly but allow you  to get it apart again if necessary in the future) clamping until cured.

Skip

[0TreeLemur]

Related question: Are there any tricks to removing an M20J glare shield?  Any "gotchas"?   Given limited access from below, the engine monitor install job that I'm about to embark on with my A&P will require removal, it seems.

The glare shield does have lights, which means that it has wires/connectors.   Where are those?   Any other complications?

Thanks!

Fred

[EricJ]

On mine the screws holding the plate down behind the compass pillar are the only thing holding the glareshield in besides a slight interference fit with the sides of the airplane.   I take the plate off and wiggle it a bit to pop it loose and it comes out. 

Wiring connections may have changed due to maintenance over the years,  so I wouldn't count on too many airplanes being the same.   Mine has a couple handshake connectors along the left edge that can be disconnected once the glareshield is popped loose and moved back a bit.    Ymmv. 

[PT20J]

The early ones without the hump for the raised radio stack were easy to get in and out. The humped ones are harder. It’s best to remove the compass. Then, there are two screws, one on each side, to remove and the gap gap cover in the middle. Then you have to flex and pull and finesses it out because it is wider than the space between the A pillars. There may be velcro attachments underneath. There is a CPC connector for the lights, but the wires are plenty long so once the glareshield is loose, you can disconnect the connector.

Mine had cracks from previous removals, so I had some rework to do. It’s ABS and not hard to repair. 

Skip

 

[KB4]

13 hours ago, 0TreeLemur said:

Related question: Are there any tricks to removing an M20J glare shield?  Any "gotchas"?   Given limited access from below, the engine monitor install job that I'm about to embark on with my A&P will require removal, it seems.

The glare shield does have lights, which means that it has wires/connectors.   Where are those?   Any other complications?

Thanks!

Fred

Plan on removing some radios, very limited access up there too without removal 
 

For lights, it’s a twist connector visible after slightly raising front of GS 3-4 inches sometimes on Px side, you will see the + & - wires.  Tape up inside bottom of windscreen to protect it from GS as you remove it with some persuasion. It’s a tight fit. 

[laytonl]

I place a file folder between the pillars and the glareshield to prevent marring the window trim when pulling the glareshield out.  Lee

[PT20J]

1 hour ago, laytonl said:

I place a file folder between the pillars and the glareshield to prevent marring the window trim when pulling the glareshield out.  Lee

Great idea, Lee

[0TreeLemur]

Wow.  Great info everyone.   Thank you.  Could be in a FAQ section!

While were doing the JPI 900 engine monitor install, we're also going to replace a fogged ASI and altimeter, and install an AV-20-S.  I've got those ready.  I'm guessing my A&P will want to take most if not all the radios out for access.  We'll also remove the original engine instrument cluster/fuel gauges, MP gauge, Tach, ammeter, and the OAT/EGT indicator that is tagged INOP now. Oh, and the CGR-30P and it's golden box that are presently installed comes out too.   I guess the ADF is gonna go away as well.   Plus the Dorne & Margolin 121.5 ELT goes the way of the dodo, replaced with an ACK 406 ELT.

The shop I use for avionics work is run by a patient man with really good wire management skills.   He'll remove some relic wiring, and leave things in great shape behind the panel.  This is the same shop that worked with me to install all the Brittain stuff in our C.  I really like working with them.

[PT20J]

It probably doesn’t help to remove the radios because the trays are riveted in place, but there is enough room to work from above and below with the glare shield removed

If you are removing the ADF, be aware that the antenna leaves a pretty big hole behind. I had the shop make a flush patch for mine. If you take the battery access panel to an auto paint store, you can have them match the belly color and put the paint in a rattle can to paint the rework. 

Skip

[0TreeLemur]

16 minutes ago, PT20J said:

It probably doesn’t help to remove the radios because the trays are riveted in place, but there is enough room to work from above and below with the glare shield removed

If you are removing the ADF, be aware that the antenna leaves a pretty big hole behind. I had the shop make a flush patch for mine. If you take the battery access panel to an auto paint store, you can have them match the belly color and put the paint in a rattle can to paint the rework. 

Skip

On second thought you are correct.  I was thinking about removing the radios to improve access to wiring, but backplates will stop that.

In a thread where I asked about obtaining a patch for that ADF antenna hole, @EricJ suggested leaving it there as a wear pad in the unlikely event of a GUL .  For its size that antenna must weigh 4 or 5 lb?  I think its gotta go.

[EricJ]

2 hours ago, 0TreeLemur said:

On second thought you are correct.  I was thinking about removing the radios to improve access to wiring, but backplates will stop that.

In a thread where I asked about obtaining a patch for that ADF antenna hole, @EricJ suggested leaving it there as a wear pad in the unlikely event of a GUL .  For its size that antenna must weigh 4 or 5 lb?  I think its gotta go.

Is it a King "boat" antenna like this one?   If so, 2.34 lbs.

I was kinda half-kidding about leaving one as a skid block, but looking at GU damage on a couple airplanes they do seem to help. 

[0TreeLemur]

20 minutes ago, EricJ said:

Is it a King "boat" antenna like this one?   If so, 2.34 lbs.

I was kinda half-kidding about leaving one as a skid block, but looking at GU damage on a couple airplanes they do seem to help. 

 

Yes, it's one of those.   Surprised it only weighs 2.34 lb. 

I guess I'll leave it on for now.  Not much increase in UL by removing. 

"Potentially Sacrificial Material (PSM)" or a "Rub Nub" in case of a GUL