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Z W

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Z W last won the day on April 21 2014

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    Lake of the Ozarks, Missouri
  • Model
    1982 M20K 231/262

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  1. Had a KAP-150 that started acting up. Chased problems with it for a couple of years. When they go bad, they can have some undesirable failure modes. The last time, about 50% of the time, when you engaged the AP, the right wing wanted to drop 30 degrees. Not pleasant in IMC or with passengers. It also would randomly just stop capturing the glideslope on approaches. Shops were confused. Some chance it was the old King HSI driving it that was failing. Not many people wanted to work on either the HSI or the KAP-150, or understood how it all worked, and this was in 2018-2019, I suspect it would be worse now. Never did figure that one out. We put in the GFC500. Huge difference in the way the plane feels to fly. Reliable. Easy to use. Intuitive. Safe. Would do it again, despite the cost.
  2. The theory here is this: You had a perfectly running engine at shutdown. For shutdown, all you did is move the mixture to idle. There's still gas in the lines, primed and ready to enter the cylinders. The throttle is already cracked and set to idle speed. If you put the mixture back to full rich and crank, you're returning the engine just back to how it was a few moments before when it was running happily. It should re-start. This works only on short turns, such as refueling or loading or unloading passengers. If the plane sits for longer (30+ minutes) the fuel in the lines may vaporize from engine heat (vapor lock), drain back to the tank, or drain or evaporate out of the carb. Then you have to either re-prime, flush the lines with cool fuel from the tanks, or something else to return the cylinders to the proper fuel/air mixture to run. But after a quick turn, I will typically just crank first and see if it fires. If it doesn't, then you know it's safe to add more fuel without flooding the engine.
  3. If the flooded start procedure is working (mixture full lean, throttle full forward), then I would suspect your engine is getting flooded somehow as you try to restart. In many engines, after a short shutdown, you can just put the mixture back in, turn the mags on, and crank to restart, and any boost pump or priming activity before that or along the way will flood the engine, requiring the use of the flooded start procedure. I'm not familiar enough with the E engine to recommend a hot start procedure for it, but I bet if you post here what you're trying to do that isn't working, you'll get some suggestions.
  4. When I tackled this job, I drained the old fluid out through the calipers while keeping the reservoir in the tail full. Got a fair amount of chunky brown fluid out of the calipers when I opened the bleeders. Kept going until fresh red 5606 came out. Still ended up with some air in the system due to changing the old stiff brake lines at the same time. Refilled from the bottom up using a pressure pot. Went OK, but the cheap Amazon pressure pot wasn't really up to the task. Next time I would buy a better one or try the oil can linked here. And the 5606 has eaten up that plastic pressure pot. I would use the synthetic fluid if doing it again, and also order the AN fitting to seal up the reservoir in the tail, which I did not have. Brakes worked afterwards but weren't even, had some softness in the right one until the second pump. Flying, changing attitudes, and pumping the brakes got it to better, but not perfect. Don Maxwell's shop fixed it all up at the next annual. Don't know what they did, but they were better at it than me. It seems to be a job best done by someone with the proper equipment and fittings, and maybe some experience, if that's an option.
  5. I have a G500TXi. The chart overlay feature shown works OK, but is a little clunky. Like Don said, it's always track up, or at least it stays track up since that's what I have the MFD map set to. So you may be reading the numbers on the chart sideways or upside down. It also zooms in too much, automatically, and repeatedly. Like, so far in you can only read the step-down altitude of the leg you're on, and you have to keep zooming out to see the next leg, or how far you are from the airport. Zooming out is easy, but you have to do it so often it's annoying, as it zooms in again at each fix. If they fixed the auto-zoom feature it would be a lot more useful. Come to think of it, I should check and see if that's an adjustable setting, which I've never done. The chart overlay makes it pretty much impossible to get confused as to what part of the approach you're on, so that part is good, but I always have the chart open on my phone so I can read all of the data and information easily. Or, once I'm established on the approach plate, I'll just switch the G500TXi's MFD off the map to show the approach plate itself instead, which is then the proper orientation and still shows the geo-referenced blue airplane dot on it. Once on approach, the map overlay feature seems to me to be of little use. It's more helpful while you're 50 miles out and wanting to get oriented about where the approach and potential missed is going to take you in relation to the rest of the world. I always thought that was its intended use, and not trying to fly the approach itself on the map page. But you can certainly fly an approach with it. Never knew the G3X didn't have that feature. But I wouldn't miss it too much if I were choosing between the two today.
  6. Whenever you have it ready, let me know pricing and how to order. Thanks @Gee Bee Aeroproducts
  7. Not sure about the replacement or adhesive, but Peerco 321 Adhesive Remover did a great job removing the old glue from my door where the seal used to be without stripping any paint. https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cspages/peerco02-00234.php My research showed off-the-shelf factory-style replacements weren't easily available. But I did stop short of calling the factory. Hope you find one.
  8. Also, if you buckle the seatbelts and tighten them up all the way, they make a nice handle for lifting the seats in and out of the plane. And it keeps them from flopping around and banging on the wing as you carry the seats in and out.
  9. That's a nice looking F model at a good price. I think those late-model F's are a great value in the market. Having it looked at by a good mechanic is recommended. Have them look for corrosion. Most everything else can be fixed reasonably. If I were buying, I would open up all the inspection panels myself and spend a lot of time looking around the inside with a mirror, flashlight, and borescope camera. Make sure it has complete logs before you invest much time or money. Most lenders will not finance a plane with any of them missing. Be ready for the first year or two to spend a bit on catch-up maintenance. There is usually some that gets deferred after the owner decides to sell. Or it has been sitting, and things will break as you start spinning them back up. I would budget at least $10k per year for those years for maintenance, and hope it was less. Not trying to scare you off, just something I think all new aircraft owners should know, so you don't have a bad experience. Good luck!
  10. Had never heard of these, but just ordered some. Looks like Simple Green makes something similar too. Going to try those also.
  11. I've had problems with most of the system, but not the regulator. It's a pretty simple system actually, just lots of places leaks can develop. Currently have all the leaks fixed. What's the problem with yours?
  12. Congrats on persevering through what I'm sure was a frustrating struggle. And now you know your plane that much better. These birds are all unique creations at this point after years of modifications and improvements with unique installations. Probably why it costs so much to get them worked on...
  13. The plug fouling could have been related to that particular plane's setup, I don't know. I was told it was because the carb was set for sea level ops, and my home base was at an elevation of 1,000 feet. But it would foul quickly during taxi at full rich mixture.
  14. Just one data point, but the START POWER ON annunciator came out of our panel redo inop, along with most of the other warning lights in the annunciator strip. I believe the only ones that still light up on test are the GEAR DOWN, GEAR UNSAFE, and ALT AIR.
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