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Z W

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Z W last won the day on April 21 2014

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  • Location
    Lake of the Ozarks, Missouri
  • Model
    1982 M20K 231/262

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  1. I have a G500TXi. The chart overlay feature shown works OK, but is a little clunky. Like Don said, it's always track up, or at least it stays track up since that's what I have the MFD map set to. So you may be reading the numbers on the chart sideways or upside down. It also zooms in too much, automatically, and repeatedly. Like, so far in you can only read the step-down altitude of the leg you're on, and you have to keep zooming out to see the next leg, or how far you are from the airport. Zooming out is easy, but you have to do it so often it's annoying, as it zooms in again at each fix. If they fixed the auto-zoom feature it would be a lot more useful. Come to think of it, I should check and see if that's an adjustable setting, which I've never done. The chart overlay makes it pretty much impossible to get confused as to what part of the approach you're on, so that part is good, but I always have the chart open on my phone so I can read all of the data and information easily. Or, once I'm established on the approach plate, I'll just switch the G500TXi's MFD off the map to show the approach plate itself instead, which is then the proper orientation and still shows the geo-referenced blue airplane dot on it. Once on approach, the map overlay feature seems to me to be of little use. It's more helpful while you're 50 miles out and wanting to get oriented about where the approach and potential missed is going to take you in relation to the rest of the world. I always thought that was its intended use, and not trying to fly the approach itself on the map page. But you can certainly fly an approach with it. Never knew the G3X didn't have that feature. But I wouldn't miss it too much if I were choosing between the two today.
  2. Whenever you have it ready, let me know pricing and how to order. Thanks @Gee Bee Aeroproducts
  3. Not sure about the replacement or adhesive, but Peerco 321 Adhesive Remover did a great job removing the old glue from my door where the seal used to be without stripping any paint. https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cspages/peerco02-00234.php My research showed off-the-shelf factory-style replacements weren't easily available. But I did stop short of calling the factory. Hope you find one.
  4. Also, if you buckle the seatbelts and tighten them up all the way, they make a nice handle for lifting the seats in and out of the plane. And it keeps them from flopping around and banging on the wing as you carry the seats in and out.
  5. That's a nice looking F model at a good price. I think those late-model F's are a great value in the market. Having it looked at by a good mechanic is recommended. Have them look for corrosion. Most everything else can be fixed reasonably. If I were buying, I would open up all the inspection panels myself and spend a lot of time looking around the inside with a mirror, flashlight, and borescope camera. Make sure it has complete logs before you invest much time or money. Most lenders will not finance a plane with any of them missing. Be ready for the first year or two to spend a bit on catch-up maintenance. There is usually some that gets deferred after the owner decides to sell. Or it has been sitting, and things will break as you start spinning them back up. I would budget at least $10k per year for those years for maintenance, and hope it was less. Not trying to scare you off, just something I think all new aircraft owners should know, so you don't have a bad experience. Good luck!
  6. Had never heard of these, but just ordered some. Looks like Simple Green makes something similar too. Going to try those also.
  7. I've had problems with most of the system, but not the regulator. It's a pretty simple system actually, just lots of places leaks can develop. Currently have all the leaks fixed. What's the problem with yours?
  8. Congrats on persevering through what I'm sure was a frustrating struggle. And now you know your plane that much better. These birds are all unique creations at this point after years of modifications and improvements with unique installations. Probably why it costs so much to get them worked on...
  9. The plug fouling could have been related to that particular plane's setup, I don't know. I was told it was because the carb was set for sea level ops, and my home base was at an elevation of 1,000 feet. But it would foul quickly during taxi at full rich mixture.
  10. Just one data point, but the START POWER ON annunciator came out of our panel redo inop, along with most of the other warning lights in the annunciator strip. I believe the only ones that still light up on test are the GEAR DOWN, GEAR UNSAFE, and ALT AIR.
  11. I've landed a couple of times with a low fuel light on one side, and the other tank reading between 5-10 gallons. Once on purpose which convinced me not to do that again. The second time, more recently, after getting shorted on a fuel order and then hitting greater than forecast headwinds. Both times made me extremely uncomfortable. I greatly prefer to get extra fuel, or stop for more. The M20K doesn't take much fuel to get there - 12 more gallons gives you an hour of time and 160+ miles of range. The stock 75 gallon tanks give you 6.25 hours of flight and 1,000 miles of range, and unless you're hauling 4 adult males, the plane can usually be flown easily within W&B with 75 gallons on board. It's the most efficient model in the fleet for this. I don't see a lot of reason to be landing, taking off, or going around with less than 12 gallons in both tanks, so I don't do it. My thoughts only. Your experience may vary.
  12. Another thought - You could do the ground run and data download prior to departure without a CFI, I would think, at minimal risk to the plane and your insurance policy. I think I would do that before scheduling the flight with a CFI and feeling the pressure to fly. I will never takeoff in a plane that doesn't show everything normal at run-up on the ground, and I've been pressured by various mechanics and other pilots to do so several times. In your situation I would even do some extended full-power ground run-ups and hold the engine there for a minute or two to watch the EGTs and CHTs. Then download the data and share it here. Once you're confident everything is sorted out on the ground and good to go, you could schedule the CFI with more confidence.
  13. I had a M20C with that engine for several years. It would very quickly foul a plug during taxi if you did not lean it aggressively. If you forgot to lean, it would remind you at the mag check during run up, where the engine would immediately run very rough and cough and shake. You could cure it by burning the plug clean. The procedure was to lean aggressively, set mags to both, set the throttle to 2,000 RPM, lean some more until you saw the RPM drop slightly, and hold it there for 30 seconds to 1 minute. Then repeat your mag check. Every time, this would result in a clean plug and a plane ready for takeoff. I would then smack the back of my head for forgetting to lean, and leave it leaned out until departure. I assume you did a proper run up and mag check prior to this flight, and did not see the above behavior? I never took off with a fouled plug and don't know if it would cause what you're seeing, but since this plane is new to you, I thought I'd suggest starting at step one. If you're able, next time, do a full extended run-up, maybe another test flight if all is good, then download the engine logs from your JPI, and post the links here. I've done that before and this community is amazing with their ability to look through logs and help you diagnose.
  14. When we redid the carpet we took the time to tape up all the seams and holes around the cabin with some high-quality duct tape, after reading that helps prevent CO intrusion as well as cabin drafts. There are quite a few seams, gaps, and open holes in the floor. Our exhaust dumps right under the right hand side of the engine. Got one of the sensitive CO monitors a couple years ago. It shows up to 5 PPM on the ground with the door and window closed. Sometimes up to 12 PPM on the ground with the door/window open in the summer. Have never seen higher than that on it.
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