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Update - local guy repaired the wing tip and painted. I took the opportunity to have him touch up several other minor hanger rash and paint imperfections adn then clean, degrease, polish and ceramic coat the whole plane. I can say that I am happy again!

I drive 45 miles/1 hour to the airport where I could get a hangar. It’s a pain, but having the plane out of the elements is important to me.

I’d say most likely the problem is you have air in your right brake line, an issue with your right master cylinder or both.

$250/mo for a hangar is what some people pay for a tie-down - that's a deal. I would do it and keep your name on a hangar wait-list at your home field. As you know, cleaning off your tied-down airplane in the winter in Wisconsin is not fun. (By the way I wouldn't consider this a big dilemma - you have two options. There are metro areas where there are no tie downs or hangars available.)

Rain gauge.

I think Craig McGregor set it up many years ago, He had owned an M20J and lived on the Big Island of Hawaii until he moved to New Mexico and bought a Malibu. We're lucky he continues to maintain it. I think MooneySpace is valuable enough that I donate more than the minimum and, if you find the forum useful as I do, I recommend doing the same.

After exiting co-ownership in Fall of 2021 (Missile) I am now the sole owner of a modified 1965 M20E. Just returned from Dakotas with her after commercial flight(s) today. Owner and I traded a lot of information before purchase was completed. He installed a low time engine that had been majored to new by Lycomming. Upgrades are extensive (completed in early 1990's and include: -J cowl -SW Texas aviation speed slope windshield -Wing tip fairings with strobes -Flap gap seals -Late J dorsal enclosure -GDL 82 ADSB & Aspen on an otherwise basice panel with eight pack pilot panel Flew great and fast dodging boiler build ups on a 3.5 hour flight. Really happy to be owning a Mooney again. Perfect for my wife and I for next ten years as custodians. Looking forward to the journey. Scott

I think this borders on blasphemy.

Another option is wing covers which are available and help with hail.

I share my hanger with two other aircraft and we have a snack shelf. A large container of peanuts from Costco is more than $10.

My M20C lived out doors for decades… a decade while I owned it, in NJ. Andrei, You must be a young guy… If you were an old guy… you would have witnessed a brand new car lose it’s paint, and the ceiling fall down on your head… and have the dash board split across the top… and your thoughts of buying another new car, didn’t happen. Yet, the $200 lawn mower bought in the 90s… looks and works like it is brand new, after decades in the garage… Being out in the weather is terrible for machines in general. Around here… There are forever-planes that get treated as if they will last… forever. They tend to live in hangars. Then there are the aviation experiments… I’ll buy this plane, and see if aviation is good for me. They tend to save dough on everything until a forever-plane becomes part of the plan. Real confusion occurs when your experiment goes into the second decade…. Update, or buy a forever plane. Soooo… you have a decade of brand P experience already…. A decade outside. The Mooney is less elements sensitive than brand P… there are good covers available… start there. And heating systems… The M20E makes a great retirement plane… care for it like you will have it deep into retirement. Once you have to have a hangar…. It is worth the price. You do have an apartment for your girl friend, don’t you? Your wife will love the hangar… Best regards, -a-

FAA invitation to a presentation regarding parts support…. Vintage Airplanes… = before 1980 You have asked us to notify you when a webinar is scheduled that meets your criteria. The following webinar may be of interest to you: "Vintage Aircraft Replacement and Modification Program VARMA" Topic: Scott Fohrman from the Chicago Aircraft Certification Branch will be doing a presentation on the VARMA Program On Tuesday, October 10, 2023 at 11:00 Eastern Daylight Time (08:00 PDT; 09:00 MDT; 10:00 CDT; 05:00 HST; 07:00 AKDT; 08:00 Arizona; 15:00 GMT) Select Number: EA17124379 Description: Scott Fohrman from the Chicago Aircraft Certification Branch will be doing a presentation on the Vintage Aircraft Replacement and Modification Program VARMA. This program is indented to help owners and operators of vintage aircraft (certificated before Jan 1, 1980, fixed wing, unpressurized, under 12,5000 lbs with a reciprocating engine) find and use replacement parts or processes, when the parts are no longer available, obsolete and out of production. To view further details and registration information for this webinar, click here. The sponsor for this seminar is: FAASTeam The following credit(s) are available for the WINGS/AMT Programs: Basic Knowledge 3 - 1 Credit AMT: 1.00 Click here to view the WINGS help page

Leaning for taxi became all the rage when 80 octane went away and lower compression engines had to use 100LL. The extra lead combined with combustion chamber temperatures too low at low power to activate the lead scavenger led to fouled plugs. The purpose of leaning is to raise the combustion temperature to better scavenge the lead. An engine designed for 100 octane shouldn’t have a problem running rich during taxi. Leaning doesn’t hurt, but it’s a good way to kill a turbocharged engine if you forget to set it back to full rich before takeoff. Skip

It shouldn’t, in fact an IO-360 should be able to taxi around extensively at full rich and not foul the plugs and be on a long approach full rich without fouling assuming the idle mixture is correctly set of course. It may foul plugs if they need cleaning anyway, a very carboned up plug will foul much easier than a clean one. If it were common for plugs to foul from idling or especially on approach, then trainers would all be fouled most of the time and checklists would have been written long ago to lean for taxi and approach, some of the big round motors I think may have been but I don’t fly them so I don’t know for sure, some of those were quite complex to operate. Remember we have every possible level of experience here, some are very new to flying and have their hands full as it is with a complex aircraft. I think it prudent myself that we preach adherence to the POH myself. It’s tough to be wrong if you followed the checklist and sometimes tough to justify not doing so, I’m talking of course if there is an accident or incident of course. But it’s a free Country and it’s your airplane, so A quick Google found this, there are several hits, this is just the first one, an experienced person wouldn’t have made this mistake I don’t think. https://generalaviationnews.com/2019/10/01/failure-to-enrich-mixture-ends-in-accident/ Then there is this opinion https://pilotworkshop.com/tips/mixture-during-descent/

It would be good to see a picture of the filter that failed. If it had the domed top, than it failed from over pressure. The filter cannot create the over pressure, just the engine. The tests referenced above showed the Tempest failed at 5 times the normal working pressure of our oil systems. How much safety margin do you want? In an over pressure scenario, something has to give. If the oil filter didn’t rupture, what would be next? Shearing the gears in the oil pump? That doesn’t sound like a better outcome. The real question here isn’t why the oil filter burst, but why did he have the over pressure? The document referenced says reverse flow can cause it. But that can only happen if you have a remote filter and connect the oil lines backwards. I’m not sure how that works with an adapter mounted to the engine to replace the screen unless it was designed wrong. If that was the case, they should have all been taken out of service years ago by AD. I don’t think we know the root cause of this failure yet. Blaming the filter doesn’t seem like the answer. There would need to be three simultaneous failures for it to be the filter’s fault. The filter would need to clog, the filter’s internal bypass would need to fail and the engine’s pressure regulator would need to fail. One thing I need to re-check is the position in the system of the oil pressure regulator. Is it before or after the oil filter? The more I think about it, I think it is after the filter. If so, an un-bypassed clog in the filter could cause the overpressure. But the only way the bypass would fail is if the flow was reversed. Either way, it seems like there should be an AD about this. Once the root cause is determined. Oh, I see the picture now, it is a remote filter. Most likely the oil lines are backwards. The thing is, it could run this way for years without issue. As it seemed to do.

What you describe is true with a factory installed avionics master switch. But vintage models don’t have these and there were many add on avionics switches that where not installed using the factory method and i’ve seen others install the bypass switch rather than install the avionics switch like the factory does with a normally closed NC relay that is powered on to turn off the radios - the fail safe method. Of course i don’t know what model this is, but the description of the issue matches a vintage mooney without a factory avionics switch that was modded to add one - just not the way the factory does it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

https://tempestplus.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/SB006-Remote-Oil-Filter.pdf

My plane is up for sale! Mark Woods at Delta Aviation has the listing. Greg Lehman at Advanced Aircraft just fixed all the fuel leaks. Better equipped with low engine time for less than others currently on offer. Original paint and hangared with only 450 SMOH, so it's ready for whatever upgrades you can dream of with the panel already done! Speed brakes, Monroy tanks, color JPI engine monitor, all electric, LEDS, MaxPulse wig-wag recognition lights, new Vantage Plane Plastics installed this year, compressions all in the 70s, maintained by Mooney Factory Trained mechanic. Located in Southern California and available for showings to serious buyers. Details, photos, videos, contact info all available here: https://www.controller.com/listing/for-sale/226917625/1994-mooney-m20j-mse-piston-single-aircraft

Recently, I change my oil and use the tempest spin on oil filter as I start it up my 1964M 20 C I didn’t realize but the filter had split open and pumped all the oil out onto the ground, I called the manufacture, and they said it Was an underlying problem of the aircraft. I’ve change the oil four times since I’ve had the plane and never had an issue now I’m worried about cold starts. He also mentioned alaskin cold starts. I’m in Northern California and it was 70° + . I can’t imagine the problem but as it gets colder in the winter I’m looking at getting oil sump heater, can I get recommendations for the correct glue on external heater probably from aircraft spruce thank you

This comes up all the time, the ROI on a hanger is negative. This can be proven with very simple math. You can repaint the entire airplane every 6 or so years for what a hanger will cost. Most airplanes get repainted every 15-20yrs thus no issue. Hail is covered by insurance. I have often had 2 hangers because I commuted and having tools, spares, etc. was useful. I have 1 hanger today. That though has nothing to do with the airplane. Hangers are like engine monitors (I have a MVP-50) where people swear without one you will destroy your airplane. I disagree both with the engine monitor and the hanger portion of this argument (even though I have both). If you can afford a hanger it is great but not imho necessary. I find an engine monitor less useful but I had the cash and I like the flashing lights. With both engine monitors and hangers you will never have a logical conversation. People will tell you what they “feel” or talk about some very bizarre one off. For the most part though park it outside and use stock gauges, has worked since the Wright Brothers. I do like my hanger though, it has a freezer which I keep ice cream in.

I don't think it is "1 hour" difference. I believe you have overlooked some of the time that you will save with a hangar. You posed it as a 40 min. drive vs a 15 min. drive each way. That is an extra 25 min. commute each way and only an extra 50 min. commute in total to start with. But if you have it tied down, covered, engine plugs, pitot cover it takes some time to remove them and fold it up and stow it somewhere. And it takes longer to put it all back on - and if the weather changes as you land - i.e. windy or rain starts - it takes even longer. I bet you save at least 15 minutes total - maybe more What if it is a beautiful clear winter afternoon in Wisconsin, perhaps hovering around freezing, maybe slightly above? - in the hangar there will be no ice, slush or stubborn ice stuck in the shadows to clean off. What if you land after sunset? - you can push it into your lit hangar. There will be no fumbling around in the dark, losing time trying to put the cover on and tie it down. You will have lights, power and supplies handy to check/add air to the tires and check/top off the oil saving time. Depending on the airport and policy, you may be able to park closer with the hangar (or in the hangar) and save time. In the hangar, there will be less chance of rainwater/slush getting past the fuel caps - hence less time spent sampling/draining accumulated water out of the sumps. And there will be less chance of the unforeseen delay - animals in the cowling or making nests in the empennage, cleaning bird crap off the prop or antenna where birds have chosen to perch, etc. (when I was young my neighbor, who had his Bonanza tied down, had a small animal crawl out the front of the cowling as he revved the engine up for the first start on a cool day. - they lost a lot of time cleaning that mess up)

It’s not certified for IFR use.

Guys, the original post you're responding to was from March 2022 and the OP has not been back here since July 2022. If you want him to see it you might want to try the contact information he provided rather than posting here.

Stop guessing and file SDR right away and let FAA determine the cause: https://sdrs.faa.gov/ There might be other cases of the filter failure and FAA will take the appropriate action. Vik

I don’t NEED an airplane either, if flying that slow, I would just drive.

Well I pulled my IO 360 A1A off the front of my E in the beginning of July and tore it down. I sent everything off for machining and everything has gone smoothly so far. I have everything back but the hardware I sent out to get cad plated. My IA and I are going to assemble it here in a little over a week so I thought I would ask the brain trust for any tips or tricks they have. I know many of you do this type of thing for a living and obviously have gone through many engines, what are some things you do to make assembly go easier for you? I’m not asking for anything against the manual but just some of your tips and tricks you might be willing to let go of. There are a couple people I’d like to thank right off the bat. @N201MKTurbo Rich thanks for recommending nickson’s for the case, Rudy is hilarious and their work is phenomenal. @jetdriven thanks for the posts on 15B26588 lifters, they seem to be readily available now. Clarence you have helped in more ways than I can write down, literally every time I look something up you had the answer or a good tip losing you on this forum is huge. There have been many others that have contributed in the past (Cliffy) so thank you for bringing your experience and expertise to this forum.

Following this thread. I’m spending a month in Miami this winter and was planning on HWO. I was at Daytona (Ormond Beach) around Labor Day and had to deal with all the training aircraft. It wasn’t any worse than a crowded EAA pancake breakfast. Actually, I’d say the students are better because they are following the rules by the book

Never hurts.

Mooneyspace……. a valuable asset!!

At least on the early E models, there is a tiny bleed hole in the line. Was never quite sure if it was for pulsations, calibration etc. However, he may have clamped that under an Adel or entirely eliminated it. That alone might delay ambient when engine not running…

Very purdy!!

I would remove the MP line at the firewall on the engine side. If it doesn't read ambient pressure, then remove the MP line at the gauge, and see if it reads ambient. If the gauge does read ambient pressure, then remove the line from the engine and firewall and blow through it and see if it is clogged.

Wow! Thank you for posting! I earned my private pilot’s license in December 1980 at Pietsch Flying Service in Minot, ND. My flight instructor was Meric Murphy, and Mrs Pietsch was still working the counter if my memory serves.

Me too. Had to do it twice, it came back fairly quick.

Have you verified that the oil hoses are connected correctly? I also ran across one that had been installed wrong, and had been that way for two years before the plane came to me. I only noticed that when I went to cut the filter open, and the pleats were totally clean on the outside. They were using a long 48109 filter, so it never overpressurized.

Part of a local family that does all sorts of aviation work. There was a king air on the ramp and a citation was after me. $2350 for the work not including the paint or wing tip repair which was covered by the vendor. Paint was color matched with a local paint shop then adjusted by the hand and is perfect match. They also cleaned the interior, windows and spinners. The seats look like new. The white color touch up spots could have been better, but from my own experience, less can be more. I got priority service because the the vendor that damaged the plane has a connection with them. Took about a week for the fiber glass repair and 3 days for the rest. Based at talladega airport. Pm me if you want contact.

Thank goodness this didn’t happen in flight no easy landing spot at hand. I’d be pretty peeved at the person who installed the remote filter adapter if the hoses are indeed backwards. Agree this thread belongs in the safety section, and everyone with one of these remote adapters should check the hose setup. I imagine this hose reversal also makes to check the wrong side of the filter element for debris, and I wonder if it reduces filtration efficiency.

That looks like your Lo/Hi vacuum sensor. That line should be connected to your vacuum system, otherwise you’ll get a low vacuum light on. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It hasn't been mentioned but imagine if the seam/crimp let go as you were taking off or in some miserable IFR conditions. You might not be here to make this post. I find the initial response from Tempest to be unprofessional and irresponsible. Rather than dismiss it as "your problem", they should have been all over it and should have offered to pay you to send the burst filter to them for examination. If they have a manufacturing quality control issue, which they are failing to investigate even after being warned of premature failures, and it results in a crash then there will be a mega lawsuit. And this potentially isn't just a "Vintage Mooney's (pre J)" category issue. We should be reading about this on the next to last page of "Aviation Safety" in the "Squawk Box".

Might try that, it is a good idea. I will see if I can upload my checklists to the site. Some of it is specific to instrumentation I have that others may not. I wrote it in Word so you could edit it to your heart’s content - if I can upload it. It was on the site at one time, years ago, but has probably disappeared.

Thanks to all. Weather ended up being more than I was willing to deal with so I sadly flew commercial. It’s been a long time since I’ve spent any time in Houston. The traffic was something serious!

you moving up?

My before landing checklist is about as simple as possible. Red, Blue, Green. That would be: Mixture, Prop and Gear down green lights. Midfield downwind or 2 miles out. My IO360 will misfire terribly if I have to add power to, for example, correct a sink rate. My intent was to keep things as simple as possible, while still using a checklist.

Mike been traveling for 10 days stuck around Memphis due to weather, hopefully I’ll get down there, have yet to sign up, hopefully I’ll find a room later next week D

I suspect the cosmic-level aggression that is so easily triggered these days has more to do with losing valued contributors than the two gallons of avgas per year it costs to get rid of the adverts ($10). The company that wrote and maintains the software has to be paid somehow, and advertising is how it's done on MooneySpace. Providers of "free" services like Google and their various offerings usually monetize the service either with advertising or by collecting and selling your personal information, shopping preferences, political leanings, income level, and other tidbits of information that would surprise you. The money has to come from somewhere. As they say, if you are not paying for the product, then you are the product.

With recent purchase of my new to me M20E I was without a CO Monitor. With winter approaching I wanted to check that box. So happy to find that the ONE ISSUE I had with my old monitor (failure of velcro on panel) has been resolved with this unit. Comes with a mounting plate. Nice.

I own an Eagle since 2009. Flies faster than most Ovations. Will not sell until I can no longer fly. Fantastic Mooney

I was a supporter here for many years. When the attachments got deleted from old posts I couldn’t believe the incredible amount of institutional knowledge we lost, and that’s when I stopped paying. Truthfully, I’m not sure how much we actually lost because the search function of MooneySpace has been atrocious for so long we just accept it now as normal. Losing M20Doc and a few others removes even more usefulness to me. And the lack of a true archives and FAQs means having to wade through the same questions every 3 months. And now the ads have become more obtrusive.

Is the service center brokering the airplane going to bring to your attention things that might break the deal? You would like to think so, but not likely. It just doesn't work that way. Buying an airplane is a completely emotional decision, no matter what else you might tell yourself. You want this to be the one so your search will be over. The seller wants this to be the one so they can move on. The broker wants this to be the one so they can get paid. If the one doing the pre-buy also wants this to be the one, you aren't getting an un-biased look. They should be the reality check. A good pre-buy evaluation begins with getting to know a little about the seller, even if it is being sold by a broker. I want to talk to the seller and I will not try to cut the broker out of the deal. Then well before the first panel is removed, the next step is a thorough review of the logbooks by someone who knows what they are doing. Decades ago I didn't even know what to look for, but now since I have bought a lot of airplanes I know exactly what to look for. In years past, believe it or not, I had actually had two different people overnight me the logbooks to look at. They had already "bought" me by trusting me that much. Thankfully now, if they are a serious seller, they have the logs on a .pdf file. If it's a seller direct deal and perhaps they haven't sold an airplane before, I have had them take the logs into Office Depot of FedEx office to get them scanned. In a couple cases since I felt really good about it I flew there to look over the logs and then the airplane. Some pre-buys never make it past the logbooks and those few hours are money well-spent. If after that you decide to proceed further you don't need to know about $50 or $500 items - that's a waste of time and money. Those items are just part of ownership. You really need the time spent to focus on the big things. You need to know about the $5000 and $50000 items. Do your homework and direct whomever you decide to do the pre-buy in the areas you want him or her to look and then ask, "In addition to those areas, where else should we be looking?". In my opinion, if you're going to pay for an evaluation you need to be there to subtly oversee it, not hovering over them. However, inspect what you expect. Especially if this is your first airplane purchase you need a dis-interested third party that will point out all of the major good and bad things that they see and not gloss them over. The fact that you are asking the question, "What are the thoughts of the group of getting a pre-buy inspection done by the same muni service center that is brokering the airplane?" should tell you something. That is that little voice telling you that something doesn't seem right about allowing this to happen. The fact is that a reputable shop wouldn't put themselves in that conflict-of-interest situation. Here's a good start on a pre-buy evaluation for the 231/252/Encore: https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/bw80n4omu09pr6iemt17a/M20K-PRE-BUY.pdf?rlkey=va5eojcu5bc9ue7rnwjj7clzi&dl=0

Flew to Oshkosh from Northeast Florida with a fuel stop in South Wisconsin for lowest priced fuel in the area and close to 1 hr flight from there to Oshkosh. Total time from takeoff in FL to landing at Oshkosh was 6 hrs 50 min and around 84 total gallons of fuel having run the engine lean of peak. Had headwind all the way and some convective Sigmets to thread through. The weather in Wisconsin was close to MVFR due to significant haze from Canadian fires so controllers had Fisk approach set up with 2 NM in trail rather than the published 0.5 in the NOTAM. Great flight with awesome controllers!!!