jlunseth

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jlunseth last won the day on July 6 2015

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About jlunseth

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    MN
  • Reg #
    N381SP
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    M20K 231
  1. Those are the standard SID numbers that I was talking about, and as I said, don't let your mechanic use that SID. I am convinced that is the problem 90% of the time 231 pilots who have the intercoolert report bad fuel flow numbers-their mechanic went on autopilot and just used the standard SID. There is an STC with specific instructions for setting up the fuel flows for engines with the aftermarket Turboplus intercooler.
  2. PS - a thought. Did you do a runup and did the mags check out ok? One way to get the temps you are reporting, at the fuel flow and power setting you are reporting, is to run on only one mag, or have one mag operating but badly, or to have plugs that are going bad even if the mags are working decently. There are people on this site who can tell you how to run an "in air" mag check, that would tell you. Maybe one of them will come on.
  3. Well, I don't completely agree with Paul here, and he is a pretty smart guy on these issues, but not getting 22.5 at a cruise setting is not abnormal. The fuel flow does "taper off" as you pull the power back (reduce MP). Its good that you are getting what you should on takeoff, yes you probably should have the mixture setting looked at. I have seen the high 16's at a full flow setting at a ROP cruise MP like 28", but don't ever recall seeing as low as 13-14 unless I lean it out to that setting myself. It would depend on what MP you pull it back to, because the MP and fuel flow are interconnected so the fuel flow will come down with the MP. That is normal. You won't be able to make 22.5 at 27-28", even with proper fuel flow settings and no matter you hard you push the knob in. Its possible that with the fuel flows set correctly you would see a fuel flow that low (13-14) at 27. I would expect a little higher. But if you were truly at 27 and 13 gph, and at that altitude, you should not still not see temps that high. I would expect the vicinity of 380 and possibly as high as 400 on a "bad" (read hot) day. It is possible you have a wide variance in fuel flows to the different cylinders, but if so you would see some running at your 416 and some running cool. I am sorry, my plane is in the shop for the annual or I would go out and fly it to see what I get for max fuel flow at 27". Its definitely not 22.5-24 gph. When I first got my plane I had the same problem you are describing. We had to both rebuild the spider to get the fuel flows working right, and put in new baffling. But my problems were worse than what you are describing, I could only make 18-19 at full power on takeoff. In your case I am still leaning towards a baffling/cooling issue. When you get the fuel settings checked, be sure to pull out the STC and fuel flow setting instructions from Turboplus, or if you don't have them, get them from Turboplus ( I have a copy, PM me if you need it). Most mechanics set the fuel flows according to the standard SID (I don't remember the number off the top of my head). But that assumes your engine makes full power at 40", which is the max MP of the factory engine. Yours makes full power at 36-37 because of the intercooler. So the fuel flow set up needs to be adjusted to provide that full flow of 22.5-24 at the lower MP. The STC instructions say how to do it properly. That may be your fuel flow issue here, because it would result in a fuel flow of just a couple inches less than what you should be seeing at cruise (that is, you are seeing 13-14 and maybe should see 16 to have full fuel flow). That said, 27" and 13 gph should not produce the temps you are seeing. Its not just a fuel flow issue.
  4. Well, first of all, if you were running at 13-14 gph you weren't at "nearly full fuel flow," which is 22.5-24 at full power and at cruise settings is somewhere in the 19 neighborhood. Actually, my standard ROP setting is 13.3 gph with an MP of 29 or 30" and RPMs of 2450, but I rarely fly ROP anymore. Some of the POH settings are good and some not so good. The Best Economy settings believe it or not are pretty much a good LOP setting, except I run with a higher MP than what is in the POH when running LOP, which puts you further from peak. If you want to run ROP and use the 13.3 gph, 29" and 2450 you will be fine. I have quite a bit of variance among the CHT's, and after doing some lean testing concluded that it is not the result of differential fuel flow. With one exception (my cylinder 2) my cylinders are fairly close together in terms of mixture. The difference is cooling. In my case, it is partly an issue of the baffling getting a little old, and I am not too worried about it right now because I am nearing TBO anyway. But that is the first place I would look. The cooling in the LB is not ideal. The Best Power settings in the POH are not the best. Lots of people run at 12.5 gph or so. That is about the worst place to be in terms of engine health. Sure you get lots of power of out of the engine. You are also running it somewhere between peak and 50 ROP, dead in the "red box." I have my mechanic set the cowl flaps to trail slightly for summer. I might lost a knot or two, but it helps the CHTs quite a bit.
  5. I have a turbo. Depending on winds I will fly anywhere from 2,500 to 22,000 with the rare excursion to my ceiling, which is 24k. I use Foreflight to make the decision. It is not ideal but it works ok. Once you have entered a flight plan, go into Maps and make sure the flight plan is displayed in the flight plan screen at the top. Tap Altitude and it will give you the winds aloft at all the altitudes that are practical for that flight. I can then compare the winds aloft. I will then pick the altitude that looks best. Foreflight does not have an automatic means of accounting for the speed increase by going to a given altitude, so once I have picked the altitude it is necessary to go in and enter my estimate of what the TAS will be at that speed. There are many days when the headwinds increase by about the same (or more) than the increase in TAS with altitude. On those days I will pick a low altitude, preferably high enough to get out of the low level turbulence generated by diffential warming. That means something over 2500 to 3500. Even if the TAS I wind up with is 145 Kts., with a 20 kt. headwind, the GS of 125 will be better than going to say 18k, getting a TAS of 165 but a headwind of 50. It is not worth the climb and I will only lose GS. There are also days when the tailwind does nothing but go up with altitude, and on those days, depending on weather, I will go as high as the trip length allows. Lots of days in the middle too. I know you are an NA aircraft, but the same method applies to NA. You can also sign up for an account with www.fltplan.com and put in a custom profile for you aircraft. The custom profile allows fltplan to allow for the increase in TAS with increases in altitude, and also to allow for the time to climb at climb speed. However, it only displays a few alternative altitudes at a time, you put in an intended altitude, say 10,000 and it will give you a few altitudes to either side of that (higher or lower). If you want to see a higher slot you have to manually change your flight plan information to insert a different altitude. I prefer the Foreflight method. Weather aside, I would not worry about flying at anything under 12k without O2. If things work out that the GS is about the same at many altitudes, then I usually choose the highest altitude that I can fly, under 18k. At 18k I have to put on a mask as opposed to a cannula, which is a pain with my glasses and I can't conveniently eat or drink.
  6. Don is correct when it comes to the K. The boost pump is not used for any flight regime except emergencies, and if you are smart, for starting. I am probably the guy who told him to use the boost and then the prime to start a K. Clarences description of where the fuel goes is correct, but with one addition. Supposedly, if you use the boost pump with the fuel flow knob full off, there is a return line and you can run the boost pump all day and the fuel will go back in the tank, not into the cylinder. I say "supposedly" because that is not what I have found in my K (231). Running the boost pump too long is the one way I can create a backfire, so I don't recommend that - running it too long. The K engines are very easy starters, the only issue is that the fuel lines may be empty even if the plane has only sat a short time, so if you use the primer only, the engine will catch but then die for lack of fuel. The simple solution is to fill the fuel line first, and you do that by pulling all the knobs full out and running the high boost until the fuel pressure becomes stable. It doesn't matter what number it becomes stable at, just that it becomes stable. That tells you that the line is full. If you don't have a fuel pressure gauge, run the high boost for ten seconds. Then put all the knobs full in and run the primer for whatever length of time the POH recommends for the particular OAT. That puts fuel in the induction system. Then start the engine. Sometimes, even though you have filled the lines with the high boost, there is still some air. I leave the safety cover in place over the boost switch and push the top of it. That makes the switch an "instant off" switch, in other words, it does not go into the detent position and all you have to do to stop the pump is let go. So when the engine catches and if it starts to die, just touch the top of that switch, which will keep the engine running until the mechanical fuel pump has a chance to clear the lines out and get a consistent flow to the cylinders. Works every time and under all conditions. I even started at Leadville that way once, after the POH recommmended "high altitude start" failed. But again, you do not use the boost pump for any regime of flight in the K except emergencies and start up.
  7. The Bahamas & Caribbean Pilot's Guide, and I think that is what AOPA offers. The "bundle" would include a chart and the customs documents you will need to enter the Bahamas and return to the US. They are very useful, but you can also get the documents at Bahamas customs and US customs. Lots faster if you have it and can fill it out ahead of time. The bigger deal is to sign up for an eAPIS account and figure out how to use it, especially departing the Bahamas where finding an Internet connection may be difficult. You are going to need one, so figure out ahead of time how and where you can do that.
  8. I stop at Gadsden on my way to the Bahamas, have been doing that for about five years. I hope that is not the Mooney that has been sitting outside, unloved, every time I go through there.
  9. I have the TCM TSIO360LB. I use an oil cooler block in the winter. It is a couple of pieces of foam taped together to make a block and stuffed in the cooler frame. Works really good. Oil temps are too cold without it, especially in the dense air at low altitude when temps are below 0 dF. Oil has to be at least 100 dF. I don't know what two pieces of foam and some tape costs. My mechanic put it together for me. I have two of them just in case.
  10. I'm taking the fifth.
  11. The log link shows nothing. No logs is a 10-20,000 knock at resale.
  12. +1. Same technique I use. If you leave the safety cover on the high boost you can push the top of the switch and it won't go into the detent, so it will shut off as soon as you release it.
  13. I was trained to do power off stalls in a landing configuration (gear down, flaps down). Might be in the Practical Test Standard, don't remember. I am sure you could probably get there, clean, at a dead idle, but I think they want to see you go through the "clean up" as part of the stall recovery. I did all the maneuvers with cowl flaps closed, except the chandelle which is a full power climb and therfore needs improved cooling. I don't remember exacly what I was doing about mixture, but I definitely was not running full rich. I run lean of peak quite a bit more now than I did back then. At reduced power settings it does not matter where you run the engine, you can lean it out, run it at peak, anything below 65% power and you can't hurt the engine no matter where you run it. I just wouldn't run it full rich, that's very rich in the K's because of the way the fuel flows are set up. The only time you should be full rich is at full power. When you need to power up, like a stall recovery, just push both knobs in. I would have the RPMs at 2700 for the stalls, I typically do that anyway when I land - bring the RPMs up full during the approach so I am set up for a go around if need be. But if full rich works for you, the worst that can happen is the plugs getting fouled.
  14. Milotron, not quite sure which maneuvers you consider "slow speed." Our aircraft will cruise all day with a TAS in the 170 even 180 range if at altitude, so by that measure all the commercial maneuvers are slow speed maneuvers. Read what I said earlier about not busting design maneuvering. Mine is 119 KIAS (I have a 231). According to my Mooney PPP book yours is 118, but I believe there are different max gross weight versions of the 252 and they have different Vna's, so you must look it up in your manual. Your power settings need to give you a cushion below that number so that you don't ever exceed it, which is a bust if you have an alert examiner. I did my practice work mostly in the summer and then my checkride in the late fall (Nov.). I found that because of temp changes the settings I used varied by about an inch MP, and actually more if I were to compare a very hot summer day to a very cool fall day. That said, I recall that 2400 RPM/s and 21" would give me about 100 and 22" about 110. Those are good speeds for the steep turns, Lazy8's, and 8's on pylons. As I said in an earlier post, always set the speed and give the aircraft a little time to hit speed or you will find it accelerating during the maneuver and you can bust speed tolerance. The Lazy 8's are the maneuver where that is most critical because the airframe likes to gain speed with each "fall." For the really slow stuff, slow flight, you will need to get the aircraft in the proper configuration and then power back to a "short approach" setting like 16" or even less, and let the airframe fall behind the power curve, then power up to maintain the speed just above stall that you are looking for. Your final power setting may be in the 20-21" range, but your speed should be in the 60's for slow flight. That is part of the lesson. You are behind the power curve. For many other slow maneuvers, steep spirals and power off 180's, you may have little or no power. The speed to burn into your memory is best glide. Know it backwards and forwards, and it varies depending on who is in the aircraft (gross weight). Best glide has the advantage of being near (but not quite as high as) the 60 degree bank stall speed. You can bank as far as 60 in a steep spiral as I recall, but if you do that at 70 knots you will instantly stall. The 60 degree bank stall speed in my aircraft is 90 kias, and the best glide is in the 81-85 range (depending on G.W.), so best glide will mostly keep you out of trouble. If you do get the stall horn, level the bank or lower the nose or both.
  15. I don't remember getting any articles on how to do it, but I do remember getting an advisory from Angel Flight Central that it needed to be done. I suppose it is different for each xponder. The bigger issue is remembering to switch back when the passengers are out of the plane, so you are not flying around for the next two months with your xponder identifying you as an Angel Flight.