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jlunseth last won the day on July 6 2015

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About jlunseth

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    M20K 231
  1. Mooneys overrepresented in gear ups

    Pertinent to this topic, there is an article in AOPA ePilot from yesterday or today, about an ASRS Report from an M202M pilot. Instructed to "keep your speed up" by ATC because of a following jet, he did so, ending with an ugly scraping sound upon "landing." The MD80 had to go around. So there are two choices, either control your airspeed and don't go gear up, making the MD80 behind you go around, or don't control your speed, go gear up, making the MD80 behind you go around. I guess if you choose gear up, it is not your fault that the MD80 had to go around.
  2. Mooneys overrepresented in gear ups

    Well, I do have a thought on why this happens in Mooneys. We are in love with the speed, so lots of people come into the airport fast, and wait until they are on the downwind to drop the gear. They want to get to the airport as fast as they can. Unfortunately, there is always stuff that happens in the pattern. The tower wants to have a conversation, there is another plane coming in on a conflicting path, there is somebody on the ground taking off on a conflicting runway, there is someone in the pattern not talking, lots of distraction. It's maybe conservative, but I do my LCB GUMPS 6 miles out and then talk to myself when I turn base and on final. That means I am coming in to the pattern at 90, not 120, but so be it. Knock on wood, I am in the "not yet" category.
  3. Hot start procedure for TSIO-360

    I can't speak to why it happens, that is, why fuel comes out of the system if you run the high boost too long. It may be coming out of the induction system because fuel is getting through and there is too much, it may be coming out of the pump, I don't know. All I can speak to is that it does. I am just trying to get across that the Pelican Perch technique for Contis, of running the high boost for a full minute to use fuel to cool the fuel system down, is a bad idea in the 231, and probably the 252. Dripping fuel and a backfire is a good way to burn your aircraft to the tarmac, so just don't. Running the high boost just enough to fill the lines works well though. The biggest problem with starts in the TSIO360LB is just lack of consistent fuel flow. The engine catches briefly and then dies because it is not getting fuel, the pilot repeats what he just did with the same result, or tries various settings of the mixture and MP knobs, again to the same effect. Just touching the top of the high boost switch when the engine sounds like it is dying will supply constant fuel flow and allow the engine to continue to run. That works under all circumstances, high alt. or low, high temp or low, down to about 20F. If you know that, it is a really easy engine to start.
  4. Hot start procedure for TSIO-360

    On that 60 second boost method, I wouldn't. As I have said above, it is the one way I can get a backfire out of my engine. Also, I tried it one day, eventually got the engine started, and a couple of passing pilots who were friends caught me after the flight and said that fuel was dripping out of the cowlingn when I was running the high boost pump. That gets your attention. Now, maybe it was an issue with my particular engine. But I have gotten the backfire effect more than once by using high boost for too long. That is the Pelican Perch method, and it may work for big bore Contis, but I don't use it in my TSIO360. I use the high boost to fill the lines before starting, and I run it just until the fuel pressure stabilizes at a number. Doesn't matter what the number is. If you don't have a fuel pressure readout, then 10-15 seconds of high boost before engaging the starter. The 1-2 seconds of prime doesn't make sense to me either. The problem with a hot start is that the heat has boiled the fuel in the lines and evaporated everything in the induction system. 1-2 seconds of prime is nothing, when there is not any fuel there to begin with. 6 seconds minimum on the prime, before engaging the starter.
  5. Cycling the prop

    And I don't remember which one it is either, but I do remember it is a tank heater, it sits in the bottom of the oil sump, it is not the cylinder band type. So the oil in the sump gets warm, but not the oil in the prop unless you make that oil move. At least that is what I think. What I actually do is cycle it however many times it takes to get a good response in the RPMs. In the cold, it is usually slow to respond the first time, better the second.
  6. Cycling the prop

    Same as cnoe, I cycle it once. Living in the cold though, if I have had to plug in the engine heater or am otherwise in cold start conditions, I will give it two or three cycles. In my mind, I am moving cold gooey oil through the prop and replacing it with warm, but that is just my belief, what is actually going on in the prop may be different. I do notice that the RPMs take some time to fall on the first cycle, I think that is from moving the slow oil through, when its cold I am more attuned to that - when do the RPMs start to respond quickly, then that's enough cycling.
  7. Hot starting a M20K Rocket

    The Pelican Perch procedure may work for the Rocket TCM, but it does not work for my 231. Pulling the mixture to full lean (idle cutoff) and running the Hi Boost for more than about 15 seconds is the one way I can produce a backfire, so just be careful with it if you are a 231 driver. What I have found is that the engine will catch and then die simply because there is not a good fuel flow. If you listen to your engine you can hear it. The cure is to hit the Hi Boost when you hear the "catch and die" going on. works under all conditions, altitude, hot start, cold start. I have not had to hit the starter switch more than once in several years.
  8. Does the engine have a Merlyn wastegate controller or not? If it has a Merlyn, that is the place to look for the MP variance. If it does not, I am not much help but I have a pure guess. The non-Merlyn engines are known for bootstrapping. That is a process where the turbo and the engine itself, change each others operating parameters. When the engine puts out more power, it also puts out more exhaust, which drives the turbo harder, which spins harder and puts out more MP. Then they try to settle down into a medium, but it is not perfect. I have always gotten small changes in my engine (360LB), it is not a perfectly stable system even with the Merlyn. 1" is probably too much though. As for the prop controller, that sounds as though the prop controller was not properly repaired. I would let the A&P know right away. They usually have a shop warranty for repairs, but it is always usually short, like 90 days.
  9. Benefits of improving GAMI spread

    The GAMIs are required to be labeled with the corresponding cyl. number. sometimes that gets skipped, then it becomes a mess.
  10. flaps on takeoff (1/2 none full)

    The numbers in the performance section of the POH that tell what length runway is needed for takeoff, short field, etc., all assume takeoff in the configuration specified. In my POH (231) that is in the "Normal Operations" section. That said, if you have plenty of runway there is no reason no to go no flaps, it does eliminate the need to remove flaps at low altitude. As was said, it makes for a smoother transition from takeoff and climb. Just bear in mind it also increases your stall speed, which is the main reason for using them for takeoff in the first place. I always use half flaps for takeoff, it is during landing where I will use no, half, or full depending on conditions and what I want to do.
  11. Really?

    My experience has been that it is newbies on the line that do this stuff. If you are decent to the line people they take pride in their work and will do a good job. Newbies have cost me though. One hooked a 28V charger to my 14V 231 and cooked the batteries. When I came out, battery fluid was flowing out of the drain in the bottom of the plane. The charger had to be forced to hook to my plane. Another knocked the anti-siphon plate off its moorings, had to install a new tank neck to fix it, and it took Mooney a couple of months to send one so the plane was hung up in annual. The favorite though, is to "fill" my tank until fuel sits on the anti-siphon and call that full. I have found them that way, with as much as ten gallons of room in the tank, although usually it is about five. Even five gallons is important to have at the end of a long trip, so I always always check the fuel level myself when I a line guy has filled it, and don't hesitate to make them bring the truck back and get it full if they haven't the first time around. It usually takes a newbie a time or two to figure out how to do it correctly.
  12. Turboplus intercoolers

    for better or worse,the things are just too simple, durable, and effective to need alot of parts. in eight years of ownership i have had mine cleaned once and that's it, and its 15 years old. in the meantime, it just works, and keeps my engine cool. thank you for your most excellent contribution to GA.
  13. @peevee I'm sure you know this, but the 13.7 multiplier depends on the compression ratio of the particular engine. I don't knw if it applies to the Rocket engine. iIt definitely does not apply to NA engines, which have a higher compression ratio than the typical turbo.
  14. I have fine wires also. They really seem to help. Mags are mandatory at 500 hours. By mandatory, I mean I automatically have them replaced or rebuilt at that point. I do it because somewhere at or after that number you will get a mag test failure, invariably somewhere inconvenient, but it also helps LOP ops. I have their function checked every year at annual, and if the engine starts running rough at LOP, that is the first place I look. If the runup drop numbers start to reach limits (150 per mag, 50 difference between the two), then invariably the engine will also be starting to run a little rough at LOP. Actually, the per mag drop number seems to be more important than the difference number as far as LOP smoothness is concerned.
  15. Everyone talks about getting the fuel flows even, which is what GAMI's do and it is certainly important. But more important, at least in my engine, is keeping the mags and plugs in good shape. If they aren't, if spark is weak, then its hopeless and putting GAMI's in won't solve anything. My LOP setting is a different approach than many. LOP in a normally aspirated means just dialing back the fuel flow, because MP is maxed out at whatever ambient pressure is. In the turbo we have the ability to make the mixture leaner by increasing the amount of air in the fuel/air mixture, as well as by reducing the amount of fuel. I takeoff at 36-37, full rich. I climb full rich. At cruise altitude, I pull the MP back slightly to, say, 35. I reduce RPMs to 2450. Then I do the "big pull" to get to the lean side, somewhere around 11 gph or in the high 10's. Since MP and fuel flow are interlinked, this means that the MP has fallen in all likelihood. So I adjust MP to 34", and fiddle with mixture to get to 11, and that is my setting. 34" MP, 2450 RPMs, 11 GPH. Watch the TIT, I keep mine at or under 1600, and of course watch the CHT's, they should be cool. The 231 airflow is not the best in the world, so you will have some variations in CHT between the cylinders. My variation between highest and lowest is usually 85 dF. This does not work for me above about 16k, the air is too thin and the temps start to get too high, so I go ROP. Don't worry about the big pull, the engine isn't going to quit. Just a smooth pull back from full rich until you feel the power reducing, then you are on the lean side. PS I shoulda said, 34/2450/11 is a 70-71% power setting. Power on the lean side in the 231 is 13.7 x fuel flow in GPH divided by total rated HP (210).