jlunseth

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jlunseth last won the day on July 6 2015

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About jlunseth

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    KFCM
  • Reg #
    N381SP
  • Model
    M20K 231
  1. Be careful what you put in there. When I first bought my aircraft the side panels were removed and the "cage" inspected. There was a nice, warm, wool-type insulation in the walls that made the aircraft nice and quiet. Well, the edges of that nice, warm, quiet insulation sit in contact with the frame bars, and the material traps and retains moisture, so over the multi-decade life of an aircraft it causes the "cage" to rust, which causes repairs to have to be made, which causes the skin of the aircraft to have to come off in the affected area, and causes sections of the cage bars to have to be cut out and removed, and replaced with new. Don't ask me how I know. You are probably better off with nothing in that space between the walls at all.
  2. "Hot-Hot"starts

    My 231 is set up very rich in order to make the necessary fuel flow for takeoff and climb. As a result, the engine "burbles" during short final if I don't lean it out. One remedy is to lean the fuel flow for landing, which is my normal configuration. If I need to go around, which is rare, I put in the mixture and the throttle. It works fine. So that is what I would do, you can lean the engine heavily on short final, the descent drives the prop. The thing with this method that can cause an engine stoppage is that I have to put in some mixture once I am on the ground, because the prop is no longer getting any help during taxi, and it will quit if you don't enrich.
  3. I always always do the P lead tests, and yes, I did find a broken P lead once. Immediately notified the home base FBO and we flagged the prop until the plane could go into the shop, which it did. The P lead was broken. Probably twice in the time I have had my aircraft I have stopped it with the ignition rather than the idle cutoff. If I try starting it again soon, it is difficult to start, and my engine is never difficult to start. My surmise is that since the fuel injection system is a constant flow system, fuel keeps flowing into the cylinders as long as the engine is still turning, and it creates a flooded engine. By constant flow I mean that the system does not "spurt" fuel into the cylinder in a short moment, rather, the injectors are constantly spraying fuel into the manifold just outside the intake port, then the valve opens and takes in fuel.
  4. M20k 231 engine

    I haven't flown a GB but have a fair number of hours in an LB. There are two circumstances where the innate ability of the TSIO360 to cool itself is challenged. One is low very hot takeoff, particularly where a good rate of climb is required. Think taking off from Scottsdale, which is in a basin, on a day when it is 114, and then having to climb to make the mountain MEAs to the north. Fuel flow and cowl flaps are your friend, and you must make sure that your engine fuel flow is properly set up to make 24 gph at 40/2700, If your flow is even a little lean you will see some remarkable temps. That kind of high hot circumstance is something most of us don't see often, you would need to live in Scottsdale, or maybe Texas although you wouldn't have the climb requirements in TX. The other is flight in the O2 levels. Anytime you get up in the upper teens or lower 20's the air begins to get too thin to do a very good job of cooling. There are parts of the 360 that just don't have the ability to cool, particularly the turbo. It has no fins, and just runs hot, hotter, or hottest. So does the collector, the pipe that brings the exhaust to the turbo. These are the two regimes of flight where design changes to the engine over time helped a great deal. The LB is a little better, the LB with intercooler is quite a bit better. The 252 set up with its superior turbo and intercooler set up is better yet. In normal flight, up to 14 or 15k, you probably would not notice a difference I don't think. The air itself still has plenty of ability to cool. Start flying longer flights at cruise speed in the flight levels and there would probably be a difference in longevity.
  5. Turbo Care

    There are two or three things to check during pre-flight that might help with these problems. First, my 231 has a small access door to the turbine on the right side, if you don't have a door like that, checking the turbo will be harder. First, I just look at the turbo. If the housing is cracked there will usually be a gray powder or film on the turbo. Don't ask me how I know that. Second, it is worth sticking your finger into the exhaust and rubbing on the inside of the exhaust to see what you get. If it is dirty and dry, that's good. What you don't want is oily, grimy, which indicates a leak in the turbo. Last, just take the end of the exhaust in your hand, watch the turbo through the door, especially in the area of the band, and see if slight pressure on the exhaust will cause any movement. It should not cause any movement at all. Obviously, you don't want to apply a ton of pressure but a little does not hurt.
  6. All of the above. But it does sound like there should be more focus on checklists and flows. I use one religiously, and the more hours I put in, the more items get added. If I find myself prone to missing something, it gets put in red in the checklist.
  7. Unless the hoses have been "rearranged" somewhere along the way, both the Cabin Vent and Heater knobs supply air to that vent, which is useful to know. The Cabin Vent supplies cold air and the heater supplies hot air. In my aircraft, the hot air can be too hot, you can moderate that by adding in some cold air. Mixing the two gives stronger airflow and more even heating of the cabin than just using a small amount of hot air. Also, the hot air can be hot enough that the fuel switch is heated to the point where you can't switch it with your fingers, you have to use something like a piece of cloth. This doesn't seem to harm anything, but if you don't need that much heat, adding in some cool air with the vent knob will help keep that fuel switch cool enough to touch. The one problem with that heating system at altitude is that it is aft of your feet, which are in the footwells. Your feet can get cold at altitude (it might be -50 up there) while the rest of you is warm.
  8. Diamond in the rough or money pit?

    You would spend 50k on avionics upgrades.
  9. True Air Speed?

    I haven't been here for awhile so I missed this, sorry. I don't see a power setting in here, I agree with another fella who said 14-16 gph is too much fuel. My 75% HP ROP setting is generally 29", 2450 RPMs, 13.3 gph. According to my JPI930 that is around 100-125 ROP, which is good. You would not want to get closer to peak than that, while ROP, I don't think. With that setting I would see about the same speeds you were seeing, maybe 5 kts. more. However I have been flying LOP mostly, for some time. Now, my caveat is that I am in the last hundred hours to TBO, so I am not worrying too much about whether I will need a mid-TBO top overhaul. But my LOP setting seems to agree with the engine, and actually gives me a little more speed than a comparable ROP setting (so they are probably really not comparable). I use 2450 RPMs, 34" MP, and do the big pull to get back to 11-11.1 GPH. When LOP, according to the APS folks, HP is dictated entirely by fuel flow, and is unrelated to MP. The formula for the TSIO360 is 13.7 x fuel flow=HP, then divide the HP by 210 (total rated HP) to get percent HP. At 11, you are right at 70%HP. So why the 34"? There are two ways to make a mixture leaner. With MP at a set number, you can reduce the fuel flow. Of course, using the formula, that reduces HP. Or you can increase the amount of air in the mixture, in other words increase MP. So I want 70% HP, that's 11.0 GPH, if I want the mixture leaner at that fuel flow I increase the MP. It works well. I keep my eye on TIT. The TIT limit for constant operation is 1650 dF. I keep my TIT at or under 1600. If it starts to drift up too high, I reduce the fuel flow (and the power). This actually gives me a few more knots than what I had thought was 75% HP ROP, I think though that my JPI is not reporting a good ROP %HP number, so my ROP setting may be less HP than I think. The one problem I seem to have is high altitude operation. Because of poor cooling my temps - particularly TIT - tend to creep up uncontrollably in my 70% LOP setting when I get up above 12k, when that happens I just go ROP, I am getting more TAS up there anyway. Its pretty slick, cruising along at 160-165 TAS and 11.0 GPH at 12k. I have 3-400 hundred hours doing mainly this, and the engine is holding up very well. One other hint is that the MP and fuel flow are interlinked so you change one you are going to change the other. I take off at 36-37"", 2700 RPM, full rich. At cruise I bring the MP back just a little bit, say to 34", because the next step is going to make it increase. The next step is to reduce RPMs to my 2450, I am sure 2500 would work fine. Then I do the big pull, pull the fuel flow back in one smooth pull until I can feel the plane decelerating. Then adjust the fuel flow to 11.0 and tinker with the MP and fuel flow until I get 34" and 11. Seems to work well. Hope that helps.
  10. What Would you Do to This Panel?

    I basically agree with teejay but agree with Paul on the engine monitor model. I think the first thing I would do is get an engine monitor that is certified primary, like the 930 and move it over in the pilot side scan so you see what is going on as soon as it happens. That's what I have and it has saved my bacon or the engine's more than once. The 530 should be WAAS if not already. Doesn't the 150 need a GPSS to fly seamless approaches? I have the KFC 200 and put an Icarus SAM in mine, it does a great job. ADSB, a Stratus2 and an iPad will give you traffic and ok weather, although I would want XM weather on the 530, which would take a GCL 69. I would get the 69a with a satellite radio subscription, its great to have on longer trips. Glass instead of the six pack, or going all electric would be last on the list. I am not a big fan of all electric, because I have had the alternator go and you wind up having to switch the Master off and fly to an airport in order to save battery power for radios etc. to make the landing. No matter what you have for instrumentation and radios, it all goes dark and that includes the enigine readouts. I don't trust any of the advertised back-up times for the glass panels, because 5 years later when you actually need the backup you find the battery that provides it is no good and there you are. Figure on at most 30 minutes from your main battery in a 14V aircraft, so I would rather have vacuum, or a mix of vacuum and electric. Sure, if you have two main batteries go for it, but it would not be first on my list in one of the older 14V's, which is what I have. I wouldn't be quick to jump to all digital navcomms either. My experience with mine (430AW) is that it is a lesser radio than my ancient King, it tends to lose reception when ATC is distant and I revert to the good old now 35 year old King.
  11. I took my commercial in my 231 and several of us here have done it in their Mooney. I will say it is probably more interesting than doing it in a Slowhawk or Warrior or Archer for a couple of reasons. The speeds are higher and you have quite a bit more power, so some of the maneuvers to stall or approaching (i.e. the chandelle, or the Lazy -8s) are a little more intimidating at first. But in the end it is a nothing. You will learn a heck of alot about your plane. The steep spiral and Power Off 180 are maneuvers meant to get you safely to the ground in an emergency. Practicing them gives you a very good knowledge of your aircraft's envelope and what it takes to bring it down safely with an engine out. Doing it in a different aircraft with a very different best glide is not going to help you if you ever need to do the maneuver in your Mooney. Go for it. We have had threads on power settings, etc. for commercial. You can probably find them. But IMHO you should establish your own power settings in your own aircraft. It is the speeds that are most important. So for example, for 8's on pylons you need to figure out a pivotal altitude that works for you. Pivotal altitude is determined by a formula where the necessary speed is determined by the altitude you pick. Figure out what pivotal altitude you like and then find the power setting that gives you that speed at that altitude. Its basically the same with steep turns, Lazy-8's, etc. You need to figure out what speed you want to do the maneuver at, or start it at, and then figure out what power setting will give you that speed. A "bust" is exceeding the required speed by more or less than an allowed amount, usually +/- 10 kts. The power setting needed to establish your desired speed for a maneuver may vary somewhat from day to day, it is important to figure that out so on a given day, if you want 100 kts. for a steep turn, you can get 100 kts. and not 105 or 95. Also, you will probably find as I did that Mooney's are very slick and you probably need to make a power setting and then give the aircraft a little time to settle in at the speed you want, or you will have the airframe accelerating during the maneuver and you will bust it. For example, on most days 24.5 MP and 2450 should give me 120 kts. in level, low altitude flight (not in the cruising altitudes). If I get the plane going straight and level and then put in that setting and start a maneuver right away, the plane might still be accelerating and you might start the maneuver at 110. If, during the maneuver, it continues to accelerate to a level flight speed of 120kts., you are going to bust. So focus on figuring out the speeds, that is the important part.
  12. Mooneys overrepresented in gear ups

    Because you can, does not mean you should. Here is what I said earlier: "Well, I do have a thought on why this happens in Mooneys. We are in love with the speed, so lots of people come into the airport fast, and wait until they are on the downwind to drop the gear. They want to get to the airport as fast as they can. Unfortunately, there is always stuff that happens in the pattern. The tower wants to have a conversation, there is another plane coming in on a conflicting path, there is somebody on the ground taking off on a conflicting runway, there is someone in the pattern not talking, lots of distraction. It's maybe conservative, but I do my LCB GUMPS 6 miles out and then talk to myself when I turn base and on final. That means I am coming in to the pattern at 90, not 120, but so be it. Knock on wood, I am in the 'not yet' category." We don't have a professional co-pilot flying right seat, someone to double check the checklist in case we missed something. So yes, sure, we can all do 2,000 straight flawless hi-speed patterns flown at 120. Its number 2,001 where there is a distraction and the empty right seat doesn't fix it for us.
  13. Well, this is truly cool. I generally don't file in advance because I want to know what the weather is going to look like first. The only choice has been a call to Lockheed, the flight plan goes immediately into the system. However, on a couple of occasions, what Lockheed actually filed was not what I told them to file, with the result that an "as filed" route is not correct. It is certainly preferable to be able to instantaneously file the plan on one's own, so you know what is in it. I gotta try this next time. I gave up on the third party filers like Foreflight and fltplan.com awhile ago. File a plan 4 hours ahead, pull up to the line, and no plan has been filed yet.
  14. Mooneys overrepresented in gear ups

    Pertinent to this topic, there is an article in AOPA ePilot from yesterday or today, about an ASRS Report from an M202M pilot. Instructed to "keep your speed up" by ATC because of a following jet, he did so, ending with an ugly scraping sound upon "landing." The MD80 had to go around. So there are two choices, either control your airspeed and don't go gear up, making the MD80 behind you go around, or don't control your speed, go gear up, making the MD80 behind you go around. I guess if you choose gear up, it is not your fault that the MD80 had to go around.
  15. Mooneys overrepresented in gear ups

    Well, I do have a thought on why this happens in Mooneys. We are in love with the speed, so lots of people come into the airport fast, and wait until they are on the downwind to drop the gear. They want to get to the airport as fast as they can. Unfortunately, there is always stuff that happens in the pattern. The tower wants to have a conversation, there is another plane coming in on a conflicting path, there is somebody on the ground taking off on a conflicting runway, there is someone in the pattern not talking, lots of distraction. It's maybe conservative, but I do my LCB GUMPS 6 miles out and then talk to myself when I turn base and on final. That means I am coming in to the pattern at 90, not 120, but so be it. Knock on wood, I am in the "not yet" category.