Door seal

[Richie the C]

Need to replace main door seal. Aircraft Spruce sells one for $93. Anyone had any experience with A-S door seal?

Thanks

[AndreiC]

No idea about the Aircraft Spruce one, but the one recommended from Brown Aircraft (T-9088) did not work well at all on my 1970 E-model. It was installed by an MSC, and nevertheless the door was very very hard to close even 8 months after, and the air leak below the door was terrible. 
 

Then I broke down and paid $280 for the OEM Mooney door seal (soft thin rubber with foam inside), installed it myself, and it works like a charm. 

[jetdriven]

A client of mine ordered a new door seal.  Wouldn’t you know, a perfect ba1706m wirh the foam insert.  
currently I have the latest version of Ginbey’s door seal, it’s really good too. 

[DCarlton]

Wish I could remember the manufacturer of the seal I bought about 10 years ago that ended up in the trash after a wasted day of attempted installation.  Hangar elves installed the one I have now which works great.  

[skydvrboy]

Everyone has their favorite, but its hard to beat the $5 one from the aviation isle at Home Depot.  Get the softest waterproof one they have and it will form perfectly to every crevice between the door and frame.

[DCarlton]

6 minutes ago, skydvrboy said:

Everyone has their favorite, but its hard to beat the $5 one from the aviation isle at Home Depot.  Get the softest waterproof one they have and it will form perfectly to every crevice between the door and frame.

I did notice some of my wife’s hair streaming outside the airplane once.  Apparently there was a small crevice.  No problem getting control of the situation.  

[Wingover]

12 hours ago, Richie the C said:

Need to replace main door seal. Aircraft Spruce sells one for $93. Anyone had any experience with A-S door seal?

Thanks

I installed that seal a month ago and it seems to work well. It goes on the aircraft frame and not on the door frame.  One thing to keep in mind is the curvature of your door might not match exactly the aircraft curvature so you might need to raise the seal in one spot or two.  Mine only had one spot that didn't press between the door are frame.  after you install it and leave the door closed for a bit, you will see where it is pressed and where you need to add more seal (add a thin layer and glue it with the superglue that comes in the box).

[skydvrboy]

22 hours ago, DCarlton said:

I did notice some of my wife’s hair streaming outside the airplane once.  Apparently there was a small crevice.  No problem getting control of the situation.  

That's exactly why I replaced my original... keep mama happy!

[Shadrach]

25 years ago my father installed a “Bob Fields” inflatable door seal. The fit is so snug that it was never possible to inflate the cuff. The door is well sealed in all areas The rubber is still in excellent shape. I removed the inflation bulb about 15 years ago. 
I have no idea what it cost in 1999, but it is currently pretty salty at $500. That said, it continues to provide good service at 26 years since installation.

[Fly Boomer]

4 minutes ago, Shadrach said:

good service at 26 years since installation.

Do you apply any kind of preservative to help keep it pliable?

[LANCECASPER]

6 minutes ago, Shadrach said:

25 years ago my father installed a “Bob Fields” inflatable door seal. The fit is so snug that it was never possible to inflate the cuff. The door is well sealed in all areas The rubber is still in excellent shape. I removed the inflation bulb about 15 years ago. 
I have no idea what it cost in 1999, but it is currently pretty salty at $500. That said, it continues to provide good service at 26 years since installation.

I priced them at Oshkosh in 1997 and If I remember correctly they were $350 then. Sometimes you actually do get what you pay for. Doing it once and doing it right and just not having to spend the time removing and re-installing a couple times since was worth every penny.

[Shadrach]

On 5/14/2024 at 9:38 AM, LANCECASPER said:

I priced them at Oshkosh in 1997 and If I remember correctly they were $350 then. Sometimes you actually do get what you pay for. Doing it once and doing it right and just not having to spend the time removing and re-installing a couple times since was worth every penny.

Agreed. The funny thing is, I remember Dad and the mechanic that installed the seal being kind of annoyed that the “tube” was pinched closed and would not inflate. It took several years for the old man to stop being annoyed and concede that the door had never been so well sealed. To this day, our 55 year old Mooney is one of the most comfortable cold weather birds I’ve ever flown in, outside of something pressurized. No discernible drafts. 
 

$350 was a lot for a door seal in 1997. It’s a fair amount even in today’s economy. When I replace it, I will likely use a seal with multiple channels that run parallel to the door frame. I think this is why the BF seal works well.

[gevertex]

I have had all sorts of trouble with my door seal after replacement. Initially I couldn't get the door to close without a lot of force on the internal latch (not good). Then after adjustment, the seal now protrudes from the door in a couple places.

[Jetpilot86]

I see Bob Fields doesn't include the Bravo on the list.  Are there any differences in the Long Body doors vs the rest?

[PT20J]

The most important thing about replacing the door seal is getting it placed properly on the door. It's not obvious and if it's not right it doesn't seal well or the door is too tight.

[Ragsf15e]

I know this isn’t the approved answer, and I only have a lowly F, but I fly it in the winter in Washington and it doesn’t have significant drafts. Mine is a Home Depot weatherstripping job. I had to replace part of it because it was getting cut up where the support arm folds under the door. I just cut out that piece of weatherstripping and put in a new one. It’s easy to work with, pliable, and seals well.