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skydvrboy last won the day on February 26

skydvrboy had the most liked content!

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About skydvrboy

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  • Birthday November 28

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    New Cambria, KS
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    67 M20F

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  1. Something I wasn't taught during primary training living in the flat lands of KS. I can see that being an issue, but you have a parking brake, so you have another option if you're caught in that situation. If you're at an airport with a mid-west T-storm rolling in and no tie down straps, now what?
  2. Wow, I guess what they say about not all CFI's being equal is true. With the exception of the FBO, all of this was covered on my first flight and repeated often. The FBO stop was covered on my first dual cross country, including education about ramp fees, courtesy cars, and complementary cookies (that was a CFI requirement for an FBO stop). Most of what you need has already been covered, but I find tie down straps much more useful than chocks. Just about everywhere you go will have some chocks you can borrow, but most places only have tie down anchors. I recommend the cam-lock type tie down straps instead of ratchet straps as you don't want to cinch the plane down, just keep it snug. Something like this (camouflage optional). Also not a bad idea to get a small tool set to keep in the plane emergency use. Something like this Other things to consider, paint alignment lines in front of your hangar and on the back wall to avoid hangar rash on the ailerons. Also, have a stop block that you run a wheel into so you know when your in far enough and not too far. We could go on and on about all the small things, but part of the fun is figuring this stuff out on your own!
  3. I'm a big fan of the MAC for it's ability to store and retrieve frequencies, but I think it might be redundant with the PAR200B. The big question for me would be how easy and intuitive is it to store and retrieve multiple frequencies in the PAR200B. It can store 5 frequencies, but if it's a pain to store, retrieve, or know what those frequencies are for, I'd keep the MAC. If that is all simple and straight forward, I'd save the panel space and go with the 165. I also have no idea how difficult or expensive it would be to reconnect the 165 to the CDI, so that may factor into the decision to keep the MAC after a talk with the installer.
  4. I love flying at night. The air is usually much calmer, visibility is greater, there's less traffic, and I can easily navigate by the stars and the lights of cities and towns along my route. I can usually pick out my destination airport when I'm 40+ nm out, something that's impossible during the day. Plus, it's just so peaceful and beautiful at night. That said, I take a few extra precautions when I fly at night. I fly as high as practical for the length of trip. I try to stay within glide distance of a "good" landing area (interstate highways or airports). I do a very thorough preflight, preferably before dark. I keep a red headlamp on my head and another flashlight clipped to my shirt. I use flight following for all cross country flights, even very short ones. I only fly over "flat" terrain, no mountains. And most importantly, I try to stay current and proficient at it, easier to do in the winter when it gets dark earlier. Approximately 1/4 of my landings are at night and 1/5 of my total time is at night. Everyone should have their own risk matrix and I won't try to tell anyone theirs is right or wrong. Stay safe up there!
  5. Why is the FAA guy getting involved at all? Just have your IA install it and put this in the logbook: ’The installed ADS-B OUT system was shown to meet the equipment performance requirements of 14 CFR section 91.227.”
  6. I don't know if everyone is familiar with that Mac-1700 radio, but I absolutely love mine. I can program in all my departure and arrival frequencies before I ever leave the ground. They are all in order of use, so I just cycle from one frequency to the next. Same thing if I'm are flying via VOR airways, I can program all my VOR frequencies in before I launch, including a localizer for my destination and my alternate.
  7. Currently in a T hangar 20 minutes away from the house, but it's 30 minutes from work. Before that I was 1 minute from the plane, which was awesome, but that was on a 2200'x 30' grass strip that only had enough room to turn around on one end. It kept me on my toes knowing that I had 1800' from when I crossed the power lines to make the midfield turn off or I'd have to get out and push! Now I'm landing on a 12300' x 150' runway and I've noticed my landing accuracy is quickly deteriorating!
  8. Perhaps that's saying something about a 172 vs a Mooney. I hit a dove on landing, leading edge of the wing just above the pitot tube. Feathers and blood everywhere, but no damage to the plane!
  9. Starting right now, you could literally be compliant by this weekend if you really wanted to. The skybeacon is in-stock and several suppliers offer overnight shipping. Install, including programming and logbook entry takes less than an hour. No one will miss the deadline because they couldn't get it completed in time, only because they chose not to complete it in time.
  10. When I first got the plane, all of the control surfaces were out of spec for the travel range. First annual, my A&P rigged all the surfaces to match the travel limits. At that point, it has a hard right roll... like 25 degrees per second the moment you let go of the yoke. My A&P compensated for that by dropping the right flap, which helped some. I'd also fly with a full right tank and empty left tank, which helped more. After resetting the flaps to zero and aligning the ailerons, it now flies straight and level for 5 seconds or more and then slowly starts a roll to one side or the other. It will not recover from this roll on it's own, but rather will progress into a spiral, which I think is normal. At any rate, I'm quite happy with the rigging now... and it flies about 5 mph faster.
  11. You would be better off asking Don yourself rather than getting the info second hand. I know for certain that step one was reset flaps back to zero and ailerons so that both are neutral to the wings when the yoke is level. That's all we had to do and it flew great. If I remember right, the next step was to hold the wings level with the aileron and adjust the rudder until the ball was centered. Again, if I remember correctly, the final step was to slightly bend the back edges of the ailerons, like a trim tab, until it flew hands free. If you need to tackle this project, call Don first to make sure I understood him correctly and still remember correctly.
  12. Beauty is in the eye of the beholder... or in this case, the checkbook holder. If you like the lines the way they are... great, it's your plane. If you don't... just tell the painter what needs fixed.
  13. Not my A&P, though my IA probably would. My F was terribly out of alignment and needed rigged. I talked to D-Max about it at Oshkosh and he gave me 3 steps to take, in order, with a test flight in between. I told my A&P to do the first step and he looked at me like I was nuts, because it didn't involve using the travel boards. When it was complete I asked him if he wanted to test fly it with me to see how it handled. His response... "NO WAY!!!, it might roll over right after takeoff." So, I took the test flight solo. It flew beautifully, hands off, steps 2 & 3 were not required. Thanks D-Max! I think this is a lot like owner maintenance in general. I didn't know what to do, so I reached out to an expert to learn, but I sure wasn't going to blindly trust the A&P with limited Mooney experience.
  14. Meh... When I asked if I could do some work on my plane under my IA's supervision, he told me "I find that owners do much better work than newly minted A&P's, probably because it's their life on the line." I know what I'm capable of working on and what I'm not. Most of my repairs go straight to the A&P. However, if I know I have the skills, knowledge, and expertise... I see no problem doing the work with my IA checking it when I'm done. Also, what you see on the internet, does not always reflect reality... I know, shocker right! I ask a lot of questions about how to repair various items and then end up taking it to my A&P anyway, sometimes checking his work and catching issues only because someone on MS pointed out to watch for that pitfall.
  15. This is the statement that would bother me. Charges going a bit (within reason) over the estimate, no big deal, I've done this kind of work and I know how easy it is to go over an estimate. But working on something he was told specifically not to work on is too much. If I didn't want to try to save the relationship, which it sounds like you've already decided, I wouldn't pay for these items. I'd make a check out for the remainder, draft up a letter that states that amount is payment in full, and make him sign it if he wants paid. You simply have no obligation, moral or legal, to pay for work that you specifically declined. As Anthony says "Private Pilot only - not a legal, moral, or financial professional"