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sleeper-319

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Los Angeles
  • Interests
    Watersports, photography, flying.
  • Reg #
    N58065
  • Model
    M20J

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  1. I've read similar advice, but it seems dated and a log of people are now OK with overhauling the slicks. But what I'd read seemed to be about procedures, not age of the original units. Mine are about 20 years & 1000 hrs since new, and were IRANd 500hrs ago. They're working fine. No issues. Just operating time. Is the age of the units an issue here, or is that just preference.
  2. I don’t have a second power source.
  3. I've got an 87 J with an A3B6 and slick mags. I'm going to replace one mag with a Surefly. For the other, what's the conventional wisdom? I've read a bunch of threads, and it seems like a bunch of people say to just replace slicks, and some folks say IRAN is fine if you send it to the right shop. What shops are people using with good results? Should I just send it to the shop in Missoula and call it done? Appreciate any pro tips on this one.
  4. Thanks Marc_B. btw, I was just in GXY last week. Is your profile pic somewhere around Canyonlands/Arches?
  5. Thanks for the info. I have dual slick mags, so the harness shouldn't be an issue. I'll ask my a&p about the EIS thing. Hopefully it's simple. Most of the time I'm cruising 7-11,000. I don't fly low all that much because of terrain. The engine runs well LOP as it is, and temps are indeed lower. I usually cruise at full throttle and 23 or 2400rpm, and it runs mid 330s rop and a good bit lower LOP. It starts fine (in that "you gotta know the process" way). So the timing advance is altitude driven?
  6. What benefits are you seeing relative to the claims?
  7. I'm at mag 500 hour... first time hitting this number for me as an owner, and wondering of the Surefly ignition is worth it. I've read a few threads, but they all kind drift into plane specific discussion. In general terms... are they worth the price? Are they as reliable as claimed? I have an 87 M20J with an IO-360 A3B6 (trophy 212 mod stc, so separate slick mags). What questions should I be asking? Any reason not to do the Surefly? Pireps? appreciate any wisdom y'all can share. Thanks. edit: forgot to mention I have Garmin EIS, and there's a surefly "does it work with Garmin EIS FAQ item that says: "Yes! You will need to have a magnetic pickup installed in the remaining magneto or install a TACH2 signal converter to make a SIM compatible. Please call SureFly to discuss the installation." I get what that means technically, but not in terms of price or installation time. Is installing a magnetic pickup trivial if I'm having the non-impule-coupled one overhauled at the same time?
  8. I use mine on occasion for the same reason (Unlevel ground). It works fine. As kortopates says, they are really simple mechanically, and very easy to overhaul.
  9. I’d give a little more critical thought to experimentals. For what you’re after, something like an RV7 could be an excellent option. Similar (if not better) performance and efficiency than an M20C/E, and while acquisition costs may be higher, operational costs will almost certainly be lower. If you have a local EAA chapter that’s active, go hang out there and start talking with some people before you decide “hard no” on the more mainstream experimentals.
  10. That’s a pretty reasonable position; not a red flag. I also think it was a tactical mistake on your part to attempt to negotiate splitting costs on items before you know what those are. As a seller, I wouldn’t agree in advance to splitting any unknown costs from a mechanic of your choosing.
  11. I bought a similar aircraft 2 years ago. The lifter issue materialized. In my case, but since I anticipated it and priced it into the sale, it was no biggie. Just downtime (which is not nothing by the way). Since these engines are kinda famous for lifter spalling after extended periods of disuse, I’d hope for for the best and plan for the worst. I wouldn’t even bother pulling the cylinder, just price it like it’s gonna need an overhaul (or given the hours, maybe an IRAN). And definitely do your own pre-buy if you haven’t done one; don’t rely on the seller.
  12. Reading posts like this makes me feel like I’ve Forrest Gump’d my way through GA so far. My experience has been awesome. Great IAs on the field, I have a great A&P who encourages me to owner assist, I bought my mooney from an owner who cared for her in the same way FlyWalt describes, and ATC. Even the ATC, FSDO, and registration branch people I talked with were super nice nice and friendly. Any time I’ve needed help or knowledge, an assortment of people from my local club, the local EAA chapter, and here on Mooneyspace (and VansAF) have been an absolutely amazing and supportive community. Flip side… I’m only 18 months into ownership, so maybe there hasn’t been enough time for the shine to wear off.
  13. I didn’t see that referenced anywhere, but it makes sense. Thanks for sharing. I’m gonna just keep my head in the sand and pretend they’re already on their way to me. You know, like the day you buy a powerball ticket and you’re thinking bout how you’re gonna spend the millions. That’s where I am right now. Full denial. Yes. Extra full denial.
  14. Update: after some hold time, I did get through to Lycoming product support. They say all new "Genuine Lycoming" lifters have this coating. Their best recommendation to prevent lifter spalling is the roller tappet upgrade (does indeed require a new case, and is done when you send in for a Lycoming Factory reman. 2nd best option is lifters with the DLC, and any new genuine Lycoming lifters you can buy via distributor will have this.
  15. It's my understanding (from the linked service bulletin) that roller tappets require a different case. It sounds like it is (or was) standard for Lycoming to replace engines sent in for reman with roller tappets, but otherwise, it seems like it's not a common field upgrade.
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