M20E Replacing Landing Light

[someairforcedude]

New to working on the Mooney and I do not want to damage anything.  How do I get these screws out without stripping them, if that's not possible, what alternatives do I have.  I got a nice new LED light itching to get dropped in there but some smart person decided to paint these screws instead of swapping in SS ones.

Edited October 29, 2021 by someairforcedude

[MB65E]

To be fair they’ve been in there a while. Take a pick and dig the paint out. A #1 Phillips screwdriver will take the screws for the ring out. 
I’ve had more stainless screws strip than any other type.. 

-Matt

[Bob E]

Those screws aren't specialty hardware; they're just sheet metal screws.  A small Phillips screwdriver should easily remove them. If they're stuck try using a mini vice-grip to loosen them and then finish with the screwdriver.

[47U]

You might as well start augmenting your tool collection… the local big box or auto parts store probably has something similar.  Perfect for tight places.

 

 

[jamesm]

When installing the LED landing light you may consider putting on the silicone boots I don't recall the MS part number for them. I am not how much room have in your E model but on my '67C the heat muff scat tubing is right next to the landing light. If wire from scat tubing were to wear through it could be a problem.

Hope this helps,

James'67C

Edited October 29, 2021 by jamesm

[1964-M20E]

you may be able to get vice grips on the back side with the side cowling cover removed.  If all else fails you can always remove the lower cowling and access them from thr back side.

[Hank]

It's much easier to replace the bulb if you drop the lower cowl after removing the trim ring. That gives much easier access to the wiring than reaching through from the cheek. 

• Remove right cheek
• Remove trim ring
• Drop lower cowl
• Remove wires
• Replace bulb from the front 
• Reconnect wires
• Replace lower cowl & cheek
• Replace trim ring

Our planes were built before the development of simple maintenance . . . .

[skykrawler]

One might consider waiting until annual inspection when the cowl is opened up for inspection.

 

[steingar]

The answer is very carefully.  We just did the landing light on our C, what a pain.  I should have insisted on an LED, I never want to do that again.

[A64Pilot]

Ref removing screws, spitting on the driver tip and sticking it into scrubbing powder like Ajax or similar really helps keep it from slipping, ideally you want the scouring powder without chlorine as chlorine is very corrosive.

If that still eats out the screw as mentioned a vise grip if you can get it on will often remove the screw, if a vise grip just can’t get a grip, take a dremel with a cut off wheel and cut a straight slot in the head, and use a regular screwdriver.

If that still won’t get it, at that point I drill it as I’m out of ideas.

On the ratcheting screwdrivers, it often helps if you put a box end wrench over it and push down hard. 

[Guest]

I use one of these along with my Snap On screwdriver.

Clarence

[someairforcedude]

OK,  one more question.  I need to get some wire to run to the wingtips for strobes. Where do you guys recommend I get those.  Should I get different colors or just white and label?  Thanks in advance. 

[jamesm]

When I did it about 3 years ago I replaced all of wiring in right wing which was piece of cake took the old wiring and pulled it through. The left wing was a bear. Since the original nav light wiring is tied together at Pitot and stall warning switch near the leading edge of the wing. I couldn't get all original wiring in left wing out. The problem I had was getting wiring from outboard of the fuel tank anlong the leading edge of the wing to the inner wing root area. Most fish sticks are too stiff. I did find small fish sticks that worked but gave me a lot grief. Later found the smallest diameter that I could find of aluminum tubing worked the best for me. The color tefzel wiring I bought from spruce.  good luck with your project.

James '67C

[Yetti]

One thing you can get good at is cutting a slot with a Dremel cutting wheel then use a flat blade.    Or go diamond tip and "drill it out"  new Snap on screw drivers grip phillips head well.

[A64Pilot]

20 hours ago, someairforcedude said:

OK,  one more question.  I need to get some wire to run to the wingtips for strobes. Where do you guys recommend I get those.  Should I get different colors or just white and label?  Thanks in advance. 

Get it from Aircraft Spruce, be sure you size it with AC43.13, and I usually go one size larger. Aircraft wiring is usually white and normally numbered, the number of course tells you what wire is what. One size larger just adds a little extra current carrying capability, unnecessary of course as AC 43.13 computes it correctly, but I feel better. Spruce sells it by the foot.

Unlikely you can number it of course, a label would be nice,

Edited October 31, 2021 by A64Pilot

[RobertGary1]

On 10/29/2021 at 4:10 AM, Hank said:

It's much easier to replace the bulb if you drop the lower cowl after removing the trim ring. That gives much easier access to the wiring than reaching through from the cheek. 

• Remove right cheek
• Remove trim ring
• Drop lower cowl
• Remove wires
• Replace bulb from the front 
• Reconnect wires
• Replace lower cowl & cheek
• Replace trim ring

Our planes were built before the development of simple maintenance . . . .

Our planes must be very different. On my plane it’s 3 screws and comes out the front. A 10 minute change. Dropping the cowl is a big job. 

[carusoam]

SAFD,

Its always good to mention that you are working with your mechanic on your project… 

Accessing the back of the screws is often a quick way to get the screw out… a good pair of pliers for the job is expensive and worth it…

Replace with the proper and SS version… to avoid repeating the experience…

Check the health of the Tinnermans that are on the other side… if they are original… it would be worth the few cents they cost…

 

PP thoughts only, not a mechanic…

Best rgeards,

-a-

[Hank]

9 hours ago, RobertGary1 said:

Our planes must be very different. On my plane it’s 3 screws and comes out the front. A 10 minute change. Dropping the cowl is a big job. 

It all depends on the wiring behind the bulb. When I bought my plane, the wires were too short to pull the bulb out the front before unplugging it. So I added a foot of wire.

[someairforcedude]

All done with that replacement.  Went over to the A&P at my airport and he gave me this paste to use and let me borrow his screwdriver.  Worked wonders!  Didn't take too long, just had to figure out wiring - had power and ground reversed the first time as the wires behind the bulb weren't labelled but got it swapped and working.  Did not have to pull anything out other than 4 screws in the front.  

[McMooney]

man, you think that's bad.  just had this done, really hoping the LED is as reliable as they say.  added landing light cover, hard to see clear plastic. 

[N201MKTurbo]

3 hours ago, McMooney said:

man, you think that's bad.  just had this done, really hoping the LED is as reliable as they say.  added landing light cover, hard to see clear plastic. 

Time to paint the cowl to match the gear doors!

[Ragsf15e]

On 10/29/2021 at 4:10 AM, Hank said:

It's much easier to replace the bulb if you drop the lower cowl after removing the trim ring. That gives much easier access to the wiring than reaching through from the cheek. 

• Remove right cheek
• Remove trim ring
• Drop lower cowl
• Remove wires
• Replace bulb from the front 
• Reconnect wires
• Replace lower cowl & cheek
• Replace trim ring

Our planes were built before the development of simple maintenance . . . .

If you drop the lower cowl to fix the landing light, whatever you do, don’t mess up the Ram air intake boot!  When you find out you’ve successfully fixed the landing light but grounded your airplane due to unobtainable parts, you’ll likely teach your hangar neighbors some new curse words!

[RobertGary1]

14 minutes ago, Ragsf15e said:

If you drop the lower cowl to fix the landing light, whatever you do, don’t mess up the Ram air intake boot!  When you find out you’ve successfully fixed the landing light but grounded your airplane due to unobtainable parts, you’ll likely teach your hangar neighbors some new curse words!

I avoid dropping the lower cowl due to this. It really beats up and puts stress on the boot. Never had a need to drop it for annual in my F everything can be seen with it in place. 

[Hank]

1 hour ago, RobertGary1 said:

I avoid dropping the lower cowl due to this. It really beats up and puts stress on the boot. Never had a need to drop it for annual in my F everything can be seen with it in place. 

I've dropped my lower cowl twice since purchase in 2007. Try it with a 3-blade prop! 

But I don't have ram air to worry about . . . .

[Ragsf15e]

2 hours ago, RobertGary1 said:

I avoid dropping the lower cowl due to this. It really beats up and puts stress on the boot. Never had a need to drop it for annual in my F everything can be seen with it in place. 

Me too.  I don’t like all those threads about people looking for serviceable boots.  We need to convince gee bee to make a silicone one.