Bob E

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About Bob E

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  1. Bob E. , son Anthony and his GF Sarah will be there too - first time we'll get together with Mooneyspace folks!
  2. I think jaylw314's cautionary reminder is well-taken. Some context: FAR 23.1391, which covered position light design, no longer exists since the rewrite on Part 23: In any case, Part 23 covers airworthiness standards for aircraft certification. The relevant FAR is 91.205(c)(2): An aircraft must be equipped with “approved position lights” for night flight. (Note: not “approved position light bulbs.”) Part 91, the General Operating and Flight Rules, contains the basic equipment requirements, maintenance/inspection requirements, flight rules, etc. and places responsibility on the owner/operator. There’s also 14 CFR Ch. I, Appendix A to Part 43 – Major Alterations, Major Repairs, and Preventive Maintenance. Paragraph (c)(17) states that “Replacing bulbs, reflectors, and lenses of position and landing lights” is preventive maintenance, and paragraph (c)(30) allows the pilot-owner to do preventive maintenance. So, may I simply replace my old incandescent position light bulbs with LED bulbs of the same type? Maybe, but not so fast. There’s the issue of electromagnetic interference. The Aero-Lites position light installation brochure refers to FAR 23.1383, which no longer exists, BUT it also states that you have to test for EMI if you have any HSI compass components within 24 inches of the bulb or the wire powering it, by doing a compass swing with the light switched on and noting any compass position error. Regulation or no regulation, this is a sensible precaution. That’s the case for me; I have a G5 HSI, which requires a magnetometer near the end of the wing. The avionics shop that installed it did that check. By the way, the “LED position light” issue seems to be a topic of endless debate on aircraft owner forums.
  3. Pilot Coyote found a great deal on the position lights. I paid about a Benjamin more on Amazon for the exact same thing: These lights are excellent. Note: The original Mooney red and green position lights (at least for the M20C) are flattened and metal-coated on one side; the LEDs are not, but the LED versions work just fine. Putting a red light under the red lens and a green light under the green lens produces an amazingly bright, pure color. The rear position light is almost as bright as my old landing light I don't have strobes; threee years ago I replaced my belly coffee grinder with a Whelen 71080 series LED beacon. It's red and doesn't flash like a strobe; it mimics a rotating beacon by a dimming/brightening action.
  4. Here's the invoice from my avionics guy from last August; he installed two G5's and a GMU-11 magnetometer. The result of this install was that the second G5 was a super-accurate, non-precessing heading indicator only. The magnetometer has to be placed at the end of the wing and requires a lot of labor to install and calibrate. This year I added a WAAS GPS, which turned the second G5 into an HSI (but to connect them requires a Garmiin GAD29B interface box). Those items were part of a larger upgrade including a JPI EDM-900 engine monitor, which did enable me to remove the vaccum pump -- the only thing the vacuum was powering at that point was the step, and we just wired it shut in the up position. Funny thing, too -- as I was flying to the avionics shop to drop off the aircraft for the upgrade, the vaccum pump failed! I think these prices were fair, and about what you'd expect to pay. My avionics guy (who also does my annuals and is himself a Mooney owner) did a superb job and I'm quite happy with the G5's.
  5. M20Doc is spot on. If you have an OEM starter (Bendix?), get rid of it and get a Skytec. Years ago when I bought my M20C I had the same problem: The starter was sluggish and slow-cranking, and drained even a new battery fast. I've had my Skytec starter for over 20 years now and it cranks at about twice the speed of the original. Zero maintenance, zero problems.
  6. I hear ya regarding checkbook v. dreambook. I've owned 5936Q for 33 years, and for 32 of them I flew around with the original gauges -- never quite sure how much fuel I had, a CHT that worked only every fourth time, etc.! I didn't mind; it was still a Mooney! The attached photos show what the panel looked like in 1986 when I bought it, and what it looked like in 2006 (and looked like for years before the upgrade). If it's comm panel versus G5, get the G5! If you only get one G5, use it as a PFD -- it replaces the attitude indicator with a solid-state display that has 30 minutes of backup power even if you lose your electrical system. If you don't have an intercom: For years I had a comm panel that kinda sorta worked, and supplemented it with a simple Sigtronics intercom. Aside from the G5, the other thing I would upgrade is the landing light: find the cheapest Whelen LED landing light replacement you can, and install it. You can leave your landing light on all the time after that with almost no noticeable drain of amps, and it will last forever. You can also upgrade to LED position lights for about $20 a bulb if you can find the right deal. In December 2016 I flew down to Gulf Coast Avionics in Lakeland, Florida and had them upgrade to the GTX-345 and comm panel. They did a nice job. Matt Schloss is their sales rep and John Theobald is the avionics manager. Good guys. The 2018-2019 upgrades that resulted in the panel in the photo a couple of posts above were expensive (once-in-a-lifetime financial thing), but SkyVista's prices were very competitive and the A&P, Dave Holden, is also an AI and an airline pilot and a Mooney owner! Everyone at his shop there in Marysville is a pleasure to work with. Doesn't get any better than that.
  7. SkyVista Aviation in Marysville, Ohio (KMRT) did mine (1965 MN20C). Superb work, reasonable price. 937-644-2055. Ask for David Holden. (They also did my EDM-900 and G5 installs.) BTW as you can see from the photo I chose a GPS-400W, which is the same thing without the nav/coms, since I already had two KX-155's. A big question was whether the Garmin unit would fit in the avionics stack since the center windshield post forks into an upside-down "Y" just above the avonics stack. I did a lot of measuring and crossed my fingers, but the thing fit with about an inch to spare. I'm attaching a photo of that too FYI. Totally agree with Steingar by the way -- absolutely get the WAAS update. The GNS-430 is Garmin CAN-bus compatible, so it integrates with any other Garmin units - in my case the G5's (the GPS-400 transformed my right-hand G5 from a heading indicator into an HSI and you also use it to fly LPV approaches) and the GTX-345 (the GPS-400 receives the GPS/ADS-B signals and sends them to the 345, which then relays them to my iPads so I get traffic readouts on the iPads, with a single external GPS antenna).
  8. It looks like you have some space above the center avionics stack for both a clock with a "digital presentation" of a second hand, and a timer. (Having the timer separate from the clock makes life much easier.) To be legal they have to be "installed" in the aircraft (14 CFR 25.1303) or at least "contained" in the aircraft (14 CFR 91.205(d)(6)). I think a good Vecro mount would pass muster either way. It took a while, but I found two items that work well for me: They are very small yet quite legible. The timer is just perfect: huge digits, press the green button to start the timer; press red and yellow buttons to reset. Here's the timer: Here's the clock:
  9. Oh, one other thing: To keep the mount from vibrating, I inserted a piece of foam in between the back of the mount and the front of the control wheel (on top of the clock / Mooney logo). The disadvantage of this system is that it's not practical to turn it 90 degrees, so if you need to look at an entire plate without zooming, you'd need to change the design a bit.
  10. Hi Michael, didn't see your post until just now. Maybe this will help. I have an M20C and use two iPad minis -- a new mini 5 I just bought (64GB is plenty) and a mini 4 with 256 GB. Foreflight allows two installations, plus my Garmin GTX-345 allows two bluetooth connections, so that gives me Foreflight plus ADS-B weather and traffic on both pilot and copilot ipads! An interesting advantage of the iPad mini is that it is the brightest of the iPads (or equally bright with the large iPad pro). So as to never run out of power, I use USB power connectors. As far as the mount is concerned, I found the best solution was simply to build them myself starting with the Garmin yoke mount you can get on eBay for about 20 bucks. I just added a piece of sheet metal, drilled to allow it to be screwed onto the yoke mount, bent the bottom to act as a tray (covered with duct tape to be soft), and at the top I added a small spring clamp, bent appropriately and also covered with duct tape. This way you don't have to take the iPad out of its case. It's truly amazing how far avionics and EFB functionality has advanced in the last decade. Anyway, hope this helps. Here are a couple of photos. BTW there isn't much glare at all -- both minis have anti-glare screen protectors -- the photo is just at a weird angle. Good luck!
  11. Good luck super6! The challenge of restoring your bird will be worth it when you see the result. It's fun to get lots of advice (and it's fun for people like me to give it), and it's even more fun to be in charge of your own project. It sounds like you are more than capable of pulling this off. You already know more about Mooneys than I knew (basically nothing!) when I bought mine 34 years ago! And I'm still learning. I've got a bunch of original (or original spec) M20C instruments I removed when I did an upgrade to a JPI EDM-900. (I have an ad for them in the avionics forum.) If nobody buys them in the next 30-60 days I'd be happy to donate them to you if you can use them.
  12. Not even sure what it's worth. This is the original cluster that came with the aircraft (which I have owned since 1986). Note: every few years the CHT gauge stops indicating and the probe has to be replaced. I did not replace the probe this time around due to the upgrade. Thus, I think the CHT gauge works just fine, but if you want to be sure, I'd recommend having it bench tested before installing it. That stated, I'd suggest $350 plus whatever shipping costs are.
  13. How about $250 including shipping? The MP/FP gauge is original equipment; I replaced my old one with this one (and with the tach in the photo) a few years ago. The tach was new but the MP/FP was just bench tested; I don't think it's even a refurb. Anyway both indicators are accurate and function flawlessly. Here are a few more photos; the white wrap is masking tape -- apparently added to make the installation tight. That thing that looks like a metal shaving in the second photo is just a spot on the glass; I was able to wipe it off. The last photo was taken about a month before we uninstalled it last October.
  14. Bob E

    JPI 900

    I too have the CiES fuel flow units, and they function perfectly.
  15. Like new. Make offer.