Bob E

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  1. Oh, one other thing: To keep the mount from vibrating, I inserted a piece of foam in between the back of the mount and the front of the control wheel (on top of the clock / Mooney logo). The disadvantage of this system is that it's not practical to turn it 90 degrees, so if you need to look at an entire plate without zooming, you'd need to change the design a bit.
  2. Hi Michael, didn't see your post until just now. Maybe this will help. I have an M20C and use two iPad minis -- a new mini 5 I just bought (64GB is plenty) and a mini 4 with 256 GB. Foreflight allows two installations, plus my Garmin GTX-345 allows two bluetooth connections, so that gives me Foreflight plus ADS-B weather and traffic on both pilot and copilot ipads! An interesting advantage of the iPad mini is that it is the brightest of the iPads (or equally bright with the large iPad pro). So as to never run out of power, I use USB power connectors. As far as the mount is concerned, I found the best solution was simply to build them myself starting with the Garmin yoke mount you can get on eBay for about 20 bucks. I just added a piece of sheet metal, drilled to allow it to be screwed onto the yoke mount, bent the bottom to act as a tray (covered with duct tape to be soft), and at the top I added a small spring clamp, bent appropriately and also covered with duct tape. This way you don't have to take the iPad out of its case. It's truly amazing how far avionics and EFB functionality has advanced in the last decade. Anyway, hope this helps. Here are a couple of photos. BTW there isn't much glare at all -- both minis have anti-glare screen protectors -- the photo is just at a weird angle. Good luck!
  3. Good luck super6! The challenge of restoring your bird will be worth it when you see the result. It's fun to get lots of advice (and it's fun for people like me to give it), and it's even more fun to be in charge of your own project. It sounds like you are more than capable of pulling this off. You already know more about Mooneys than I knew (basically nothing!) when I bought mine 34 years ago! And I'm still learning. I've got a bunch of original (or original spec) M20C instruments I removed when I did an upgrade to a JPI EDM-900. (I have an ad for them in the avionics forum.) If nobody buys them in the next 30-60 days I'd be happy to donate them to you if you can use them.
  4. Not even sure what it's worth. This is the original cluster that came with the aircraft (which I have owned since 1986). Note: every few years the CHT gauge stops indicating and the probe has to be replaced. I did not replace the probe this time around due to the upgrade. Thus, I think the CHT gauge works just fine, but if you want to be sure, I'd recommend having it bench tested before installing it. That stated, I'd suggest $350 plus whatever shipping costs are.
  5. How about $250 including shipping? The MP/FP gauge is original equipment; I replaced my old one with this one (and with the tach in the photo) a few years ago. The tach was new but the MP/FP was just bench tested; I don't think it's even a refurb. Anyway both indicators are accurate and function flawlessly. Here are a few more photos; the white wrap is masking tape -- apparently added to make the installation tight. That thing that looks like a metal shaving in the second photo is just a spot on the glass; I was able to wipe it off. The last photo was taken about a month before we uninstalled it last October.
  6. Bob E

    JPI 900

    I too have the CiES fuel flow units, and they function perfectly.
  7. Like new. Make offer.
  8. Bob E

    JPI 900

    It's bright and legible at almost any angle. The main thing is: how much do you actually need to reach over and press the buttons on it for various functions? The answer is, almost never, and mostly when you're on the ground. But pressing buttons in-flight is no more of a hassle (and not much more frequent) than setting a squawk code. Edited to add: I agree with Florida Man, you don't want to install the thing on the right side -- in other words, just to the right of the avionics stack is perfect, but at the far right of the panel would be inconvenient and hard to scan.
  9. Bob E

    JPI 900

    Very easy. This is a Mooney we're talking about, so EVERYTHING is close at hand
  10. Bob E

    JPI 900

    My excellent A&P/IA charged $2975 for the install, plus $510 for isntalling the new fuel sensors in the tanks.
  11. Bob E

    JPI 900

    I recently upgraded to the JPI EDM-900 as well. I wish I had done it years ago. Excellent display, easy to use, super-accurate information. No more guessing about fuel quantity. JPI programs the unit to match your specific aircraft, so the red RPM range on the original tach is there on the 900 too.
  12. Just upgraded my 1965 M20C to JPI EDM 900 and G5's. Removed the engine gauge cluster, tach, manifold/fuel pressure gauge, EGT, suction gauge, and clock. Everything works except (of course) the clock! Manifold/fuel pressure and tach are actually fairly new replacement gauges. Make an offer.
  13. I upgraded a KX-155 to the new LED display in April 2017. It cost me about $1800 (including a few other parts they replaced) but for that I have a newly yellow-tagged KX-155 that looks and functions like brand-new, and that will not be obsolete for many years -- pretty amazing, considering that the radio is more than 20 years old. I have two KX-155's and had planned on upgrading them both. The display on the older one was barely visible in daylight, even after I tried cleaning the contacts. It turned out I only needed to upgrade one of them. The way I learned about the upgrade was throught the now-defunct Bendix/King web page, "your favorite radio just got better!", which showed the upgraded KX-155 with nice big white LED numbers rather than the standard orange ones. That Bendix/King upgrade program expired, but the avionics shop I use informed me that the upgrade to LED is now standard when the display of the KX-155 is an issue. So I sent my older unit in for upgrade -- when I got it back I was going to swap them out and send the second one in, so they both would look new and have big white LED display digits. It turns out that the upgrade does NOT have big white digits. (I suspect that the photo on the now-defunct web page was photoshopped.) Instead, the LED display features small orange numbers designed to mimic the original gas discharge display. It does that really well -- when my two 155's are next to each other on the stack, the displays are virtually identical. I think that was actually a good decision on Bendix/King's part, to keep the standard "look" of the 155. So for now there's no need to upgrade my other KX-155 to the LED display. BTW the reason the display on the older unit was faded had nothing to do with the gas discharge display. It was a bad photocell.