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Posted
12 minutes ago, Yetti said:

I use forceps and needle nose pliers.   Was kind of disappointed when the IA said "That is passable, but we don't want people knowing that came from our shop, do it over"

I think it's an IA thing....... My IA gets great pleasure from cutting bad safety wire

Posted

Got the prop on and torqued, the nose of the Mooney is under the wing of the 172. It was windy as hell today so I didn't open the hangar to move the 172 forward so we could turn the prop and get it safety wired. IA said he'd finish it off sat. or sun. morning when he gets off from real job

Posted (edited)
9 hours ago, RLCarter said:

Got the prop on and torqued, the nose of the Mooney is under the wing of the 172. It was windy as hell today so I didn't open the hangar to move the 172 forward so we could turn the prop and get it safety wired. IA said he'd finish it off sat. or sun. morning when he gets off from real job

There's a storm in the gulf you know... Olga... Snowing in the pan handle.   got to love Texas weather.

Edited by Yetti
  • 2 years later...
Posted

So we took off the prop for a reseal. We did not remove the spinner bulkhead so that the TDC mark is where it’s supposed to be on the ring gear. Do the 4 counter bored bushings align the same as a 2 blade prop? I have the McCauley 3 blade. My mechanic is making me do the research. I downloaded the McCauley instructions, lycoming service bulletin, and I have the original diagram from McCauley for the prop. It’s not real clear how the prop aligns with the bulkhead.

Thanks

Posted

Great question rjf…

Probably want to confirm the ring gear is in the right place as well… last I looked, it is heated and slipped in place… it locks down somewhat randomly as it cools… based on the experience of the person doing the install….


We have the coolest prop guy in all GA, around here somewhere…

Let’s see if we can invite him to stop by…

@Cody Stallings (prop alignment / install question)

Best regards,

-a-

Posted
On 2/24/2022 at 6:01 PM, Rjfanjet said:

So we took off the prop for a reseal. We did not remove the spinner bulkhead so that the TDC mark is where it’s supposed to be on the ring gear. Do the 4 counter bored bushings align the same as a 2 blade prop? I have the McCauley 3 blade. My mechanic is making me do the research. I downloaded the McCauley instructions, lycoming service bulletin, and I have the original diagram from McCauley for the prop. It’s not real clear how the prop aligns with the bulkhead.

Thanks

In most cases the crankshaft has four long bushing and two short.  Most propellers have four counterbored holes and two with no counterbore.  They are meant to align, but can be installed 180 degrees apart, on a three blade propeller it would phase the blades different relative to the crankshaft, which may have an effect on the smooth operation of the engine.

The STC and installation instructions should be your guide, however if they don’t mention phasing, either way should be acceptable.  Bear in mind that it may be smoother one way versus the other.

Clarence

Posted

Thank you. I found the Lycoming service bulletin with the longer prop bushing at the 10 position. On the diagram for the prop install it shows blade one in the 12 position. 

I'll check the back of the hub.

Posted
On 10/24/2019 at 9:29 PM, N201MKTurbo said:

They seal better if dry, they go on better if they have a little lube. 

Lube them with a little mineral sprits or alcohol, which will dry up. 

What about using engine oil to lube it for install?

Posted
31 minutes ago, RobertGary1 said:

What about using engine oil to lube it for install?

A tiny little bit is ok. Dip your finger tip in oil and rub it into the o-ring. Then rub a little on the crank flange where it mates then wipe it off with a rag so there is just a thin oil film.

Posted
On 10/25/2019 at 3:30 PM, FloridaMan said:

Use a snap-on 3/4” wrench OEXL. Cheap ones won’t fit well and you lose a lot of leverage in flex. 

A local A&P mechanic installed my prop a few months ago and used a Snap-On QC2175 adjustable torque wrench with replaceable open end style heads (a J shank 3/4" open end).    These replaceable heads are all functionally 1/2" long so no math is needed to correct the torque.  I bought one on e-bay to have for the next time.  Seems more reliable than using a crow's foot.  I was unaware of the torque wrenches with replaceable heads until then.

John Breda

Posted

Beware of buying such tools on e-bay however.  I only but them when they are essentially new and check their settings after purchasing them.  

For those that have Vintage airplanes, the dial type 3/8 torque wrench (which you will need an adapter female 3/8" to male 1/2" to fit into the Mooney tool) to look for, and which you will need to use with the Mooney gear tools is made by Precision Instruments in the Chicago area.  They have been making ther=se fro Snap-On for many years and cost new less than 1/2 the price for the same tool from Snap-On.   They can be purchased new on Amazon for about $150.00/  (I just bought two - one 1-150 inch lbs and 1-300 inch pounds for the nose gear and the mains on e-bay - like new and in specification for less than $100 each.  Using 2 wrenches keeps you in a range where you have an easier to read scale.  

John Breda

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