jcovington

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jcovington last won the day on February 7 2019

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About jcovington

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Huntsville, AL
  • Reg #
    N9149Q
  • Model
    M20J

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  1. Here is what I have from my notes on my aircraft. I don't recall right now if I got this from the specs or measured it. Kulite Pressure Transducer Fuel Kulite P/N APT-153-1000-30PSIG Mfg Date 7/02 Serial No 6385-4-320 Excitation 10VDC Range 0-30PSIG Max Torque 75 in-lbs TSO-C47 Kulite Semiconductor Products Inc Leonia, NJ USA Wire color code: Red +EXC voltage (10.27 VDC) Black -EXC voltage White +SIG Green -SIG PSI mVolts 0 0.4 2 7.0 6 20.2 10 36.7 16 56.0 22 72.9 28 92.3 30 102.4 Aircraft wiring harness connector MS3474W10-6P Transducer harness connector MS3476W10-6S A - Shield B - Red C - Black D - White E - Green F - not used Now for the rest of the story and what I found from testing the unit. I had a problem with my Kulite fuel pressure and oil pressure transducers. They would work most of the time and fail occasionally in flight. The fuel transducer was far worse than the oil transducer. When I descended they would start working fine. It usually would happen when the plane was outside and there had been some rain around. I tried flushing the fuel line thinking it was dirt in the line. I checked all the wiring connections. I pulled the gauge cluster and transducer out of the plane, fabricated a test harness and ran the setup on the bench using air pressure for days without it having a problem. I ran my test setup for about a week continuous so well over 150 hours with no failure. I used heat and cold, banged the transducer on the bench and still couldn't get it to fail. I spoke with the Kulite people about the transducer but they couldn't provide much information as they said that the transducer was built to Mooney specs and Mooney owned the data. He said he couldn't provide any tech information but he could answer questions. Our conversation went something like: "OK. on pin one the signal is..." To his credit he answered all the questions and I got the information that I needed which is where the information above came from. He told me that the Kulite transducers had a MTBF of some large number I don't recall right now so really shouldn't fail over the life of the plane. He told me there had been a lot of unnecessary replacements of Kulite transducers. The problem went on for a couple of years. I ran the test setup a couple of times and everything always worked on the bench and would fail in the air. After a while it finally dawned to me that these transducers are gauge transducers with a vent hole. The Kulite transducers have their vent about mid way of the body just about where you would position the Adele clamp when mounting them. What I concluded was that the Adele clamp was partially restricting the vent hole. When there was sufficient moisture around the vent hole would be blocked enough that the transducer would not have a reference causing it to trend slowly to zero. I remounted both transducers several years ago making sure the vent holes were unobstructed and haven't had a problem since. Recently, after annual I had a fuel pressure problem and when I checked the clamps had been moved and the vent hole covered. Re-positioned the clamp and everything is working fine. My advice is to check the vent holes on the transducer before replacing it. If you decide to replace the transducer I have included a drawing from Mooney that someone posted on here years ago. It specs an Omega replacement unit for the MP and oil pressure. When I looked several years ago Omega had one that will work for fuel pressure. Sorry, I don't recall the part number as I didn't need to replace mine. Jim Transducer Replacement.pdf
  2. The bulb part number is OSRAM 2721MF8 which is a 12V 1.2W bulb. Be sure to order the exact part number as some of the bulbs that cross to the OSRAM bulb have a slightly different base and won't fit. The bulbs were pretty hard to find in 2017 and I ended up ordering a box the last time I found them. The first time the bulb failed I contacted Mid-Continent and they sent me a bulb for free. I didn't try that the second time it failed as I had the part number. The easiest way to replace the bulb on a J model is to loosen the ASI screws and push the ASI back. At that point you can reach in and access the bulb through the ASI hole. It is is a 1/4 turn to remove and replace the bulb. It is fairly stiff to remove as the bulb is a friction fit and the contacts are made using small spring clips. I have used forceps in the past to get enough grip to remove the bulb. Don't try to loosen the screws and remove the clock. The screws have nuts on the back and are very hard to reach. Jim
  3. To enter the Frankston VOR (FZT) 334 radial 11 DME into Garmin Pilot it is FZT334011. I believe it is the same in the GNS530/430. I get a similar clearance when I fly from El Paso to Tucson. It took some head scratching to remember the first time since it is a fairly uncommon clearance. I asked Albuquerque center the reason for the VOR/radial/dme clearance and they said it was a requirement from Tucson approach. Jim
  4. My wife and I left early on Monday morning for the 4.5 hour drive from Huntsville, AL to Wynne, AR. We arrived about 10:30 and met Cody at his shop. I expected to drop the prop off and come back a week later to pick it up. Cody surprised me by saying he had cleared the schedule for the day and would turn the prop around that day for us if we had the time. I was blown away. What outstanding customer service. Cody's guys unloaded the prop and took it to the back of the shop where it was disassembled. He was happy to have me watch the work which gave me a lot of confidence in what was going on. After about an hour long inspection of the prop Cody determined that it could be repaired. Cody was kind and kept his comments mostly to himself. I can say I was not impressed with the condition of the prop after being overhauled 190 hours previously. Lots of rust, stuck bearings, bearings that had run dry from lack of grease and very thinned out grease. Maybe that is what 190 hours of use does to a prop but I doubt it. Cody sent us to lunch and offered to let us watch the reassembly if we wanted. At 2:30 the prop was completed and we headed home. Made for a long day but I was so happy not to have to make another 9 hours round trip drive. Reminded me of why I would much rather fly than drive. Yesterday, the local mechanics remounted the prop. I was able to run up the engine and cycle the prop. Everything sounded and felt good. I will fly it this weekend when we get our two days of dry weather before the rains return to Alabama. I was impressed by the professionalism of @Cody Stallings and his team. They went above and beyond to get our prop fixed. Much appreciated. Jim
  5. Thanks. I couldn't get it to rotate. That does look better. Jim
  6. All ready for the trip to Cody on Monday.
  7. A status update. After talking to Cody on Monday and Joey a couple of times this week I have decided to have Cody repair my prop. He believes that an incorrect oring or the wrong grease was used during the last repair. Today I spent the morning removing the prop.
  8. Thanks. I'll give you a call Monday morning. Jim
  9. Thanks for the report on the MT. I will take a look at them. Did your cruise speed stay the same? I assume you have better climb with the three blades. Jim
  10. Thanks for the information. Unfortunately, neither entry from last year state the type of grease used. I have followed the discussion of the problems with AeroShell #6 becoming thin and leaking past the seals. I had wondered if that might be the cause of my seal leaks. What do you do about it once it starts? I am not anxious to throw away a perfectly good prop if this is the cause. At the same time I am not interested in resealing a prop every 10 months like I have done in the last three years. Jim
  11. Joey told me three weeks on the Hartzell and four on the Macauley. I won't do annual until the end of March so both times are acceptable. Jim
  12. The work has been performed by two different shops in two different parts of the country (Georgia and New Mexico). I thought the first time it was a bad shop. Now I think something is wrong with the prop hub. Maybe someone else could fix it, I don't know. I am not willing to bet another $2000 that they can. Jim
  13. Interesting on the prices. The numbers Joey gave me yesterday the Hartzell was $500 more than the McCauley. I'll get him to confirm the numbers, I might have misunderstood. I like the idea of a hub that can be regreased. I wasn't aware of that feature. Joey seemed to like the Hartzell better. Sounds like I need some more clarification from him. Jim
  14. Yeah, I am with you on the opening the thread again. I don't understand a prop requiring servicing four times in three years. It has been worked on by two different shops and yet still has a problem. When I was talking to Joey on Sunday night my wife was listening in. The conversation went something like this: Joey: "There are several options. We can get the prop resealed again". Wife: "Buy a new prop". Joey: "We can find a new hub and reuse the blades". Wife: "Buy a new prop". Joey: "We can buy a new prop.". Wife: "Buy a new prop". So I am shopping for a new prop . Right now I am not seeing a compelling reason to pick the Hartzell. The 10 or 12 additional pounds seems like a real minus. I plan to look at the W&B this weekend and call Joey with my decision on Monday. Jim
  15. Thanks for letting me know. I wondered what you did with your prop. Do you recall what the weight difference was? I should probably do a W&B to be sure it isn't a problem for me. Jim