Yetti Posted June 4, 2017 Report Posted June 4, 2017 just a bit of technique... I ordered a some .875 rod and will be near the tools next week... Quote
RLCarter Posted June 4, 2017 Report Posted June 4, 2017 2 hours ago, DonMuncy said: A true CB knows that one's time is not considered in what a part costs. Knowing "I can make a roller" is worth a lot. Nor do you count the cost of the Lathe, Milling machine or any of the tooling....... Quote
Hank Posted June 4, 2017 Report Posted June 4, 2017 These would be a simple, quick job on either lathe I have in my basement . . . . . 1 Quote
DonMuncy Posted June 4, 2017 Report Posted June 4, 2017 If you are really lucky, you will find a project that (in your wife's eyes) needs doing, or find someone who needs something and is willing to pay enough for it to get somewhere in the range of the cost of a lathe/mill/etc. Naturally, your time involved in the project isn't counted. From then on, all your lathe/mill projects are free. If you have a very selective memory, the tooling costs aren't figured in. 2 Quote
N201MKTurbo Posted June 4, 2017 Report Posted June 4, 2017 I think is amazing how you can look at a roller that shows some wear and complain that the material is no good because it only lasted 50 years! 3 Quote
jetdriven Posted June 4, 2017 Report Posted June 4, 2017 On 6/1/2017 at 6:02 PM, M20Doc said: Are we really complaining about a $10 airplane part? Clarence Seriously, pay the 80$ for the Lasar rollers and spend your time assisting on the annual or changing your own oil twice, and save the money there. I did. Quote
MyNameIsNobody Posted June 4, 2017 Report Posted June 4, 2017 Sometimes just because you can doesn't mean you should. Quote
RLCarter Posted June 4, 2017 Report Posted June 4, 2017 Have I spent $100 bucks making $50.00 part? Yes I have, but generally time or availability plays into the equation 1 Quote
Hank Posted June 4, 2017 Report Posted June 4, 2017 On 6/3/2017 at 6:33 AM, PTK said: Does Delrin rod come predrilled I wonder? I haven't seen it. New micarta tubes: The same place has solid delrin rods, but their tubes have larger holes through them. Glass-filled delrin is also available, again in solid rods. Happy machining, ya'll! Quote
Mooneymite Posted June 4, 2017 Report Posted June 4, 2017 While exploring the seat rollers in my C, I found other issues besides roller diameter were keeping the seats from moving fore/aft as smoothly as I'd like. First off I found that the carpet needed to be adjusted on the passenger side (easy), but then I found that the padding material was bulging at the front of the seat making it difficult to fully pull the seat adjustment bar up all the way. Consequently, the pins were not retracting completely. Partially removing the seat cover and adjusting the padding material helped, but I haven't found "the" solution. One last question: What do you all have installed at the end of your seat rails? I have these "clips" which are not satisfactory at all. They are constantly getting bent out of shape. I've tried 1/8" bolts, but they are even less satisfactory because there's not much clearance for the head, or the nut and they are tough to install/remove. 1 Quote
Guest Posted June 4, 2017 Report Posted June 4, 2017 Seat stops we're usually a large cotter pin and small bushing on each side of the rail web. Clarence Quote
Mooneymite Posted June 4, 2017 Report Posted June 4, 2017 8 minutes ago, M20Doc said: Seat stops we're usually a large cotter pin and small bushing on each side of the rail web. Clarence Can you post a picture? Quote
jetdriven Posted June 4, 2017 Report Posted June 4, 2017 Also a 1/8" diameter clevis pin works great and doesn't bend 1 Quote
Guest Posted June 4, 2017 Report Posted June 4, 2017 1 hour ago, Mooneymite said: Can you post a picture? I don't have a picture, but it is in some IPC's. This might work as well. Clarence Quote
DonMuncy Posted June 4, 2017 Report Posted June 4, 2017 You would use a cotter pin to hold in a clevis pin when a cotter pin would do the job? 1 Quote
Skates97 Posted June 5, 2017 Report Posted June 5, 2017 This is what my plane has, just a clevis pin. There is one of them that has what looks like a piece of aluminum vacuum line that someone cut to about 1/4 long on one side that acts as a bushing, then a cotter pin to hold it in place of course. I ended up buying an extra because when I got the plane it was missing a pin on one of the rails, I think it was less than a dollar. 1 Quote
MB65E Posted June 5, 2017 Report Posted June 5, 2017 Mine has that -580 PN clevis pin from spruce. -Matt 1 Quote
HRM Posted June 5, 2017 Report Posted June 5, 2017 4 hours ago, Mooneymite said: What do you all have installed at the end of your seat rails? I have these "clips" which are not satisfactory at all. I have those clips and they are quite satisfactory even though they aren't factory. 1 Quote
Mooneymite Posted June 5, 2017 Report Posted June 5, 2017 14 hours ago, HRM said: I have those clips and they are quite satisfactory even though they aren't factory. Hmmmm. Strange. I wonder if your clips are made of the same soft wire mine are fabricated from. Each time the seat is rolled back and contacts the clip, it is totally deformed. I'm going to substitute a 1/8 clevis pin and cotter-pin (a la Skates97) and see if it does as well, or better. The Cessna seat clips displayed by M20doc are probably the way to go.... Quote
HRM Posted June 5, 2017 Report Posted June 5, 2017 9 minutes ago, Mooneymite said: Hmmmm. Strange. I wonder if your clips are made of the same soft wire mine are fabricated from. Each time the seat is rolled back and contacts the clip, it is totally deformed. Lowe's Aviation Supply is where I got mine. My IA groused a bit, but that was all. Three annuals later and they are doing fine. 1 Quote
MooneyMitch Posted June 5, 2017 Author Report Posted June 5, 2017 Jim. Some of my rollers are worn in the middle, but not grooved as yours. My rollers are functional, but I think I can do better by replacing them. Some of my other rollers are flat and smooth all the way across and appear to be fine [probably having already been replaced]. I would like to replace the worn ones. Eventually I will! Quote
Yetti Posted June 5, 2017 Report Posted June 5, 2017 Mine are concave and not straight across. They don't have the ridge down the middle like yours do, looks like yours have formed to the shape of the seat rail. I think there is a flat part down the middle of the rail Quote
Mooneymite Posted June 5, 2017 Report Posted June 5, 2017 2 hours ago, bluehighwayflyer said: ... Significant grooves are present. I lack some of the others here's machining skills but have Dan's number at LASAR on speed dial. What say you? Thanks Mine definitely do not look like yours. Mine had a concave shape which had, over the years, worn to the shape of my seat rail. Is your seat rail different? Before you order new ones, you might try (as someone previously suggested) shifting the front rollers to the back and vice versa....it made quite a difference on mine. Strangely, the forward rollers had worn more than the aft rollers, just opposite of what I thought. Quote
Yetti Posted June 5, 2017 Report Posted June 5, 2017 Oh and back off topic. The largest sized stainless cotter pin in the seat rail Quote
carusoam Posted June 6, 2017 Report Posted June 6, 2017 (edited) Note on how small the rollers can get and still work... They wear until sooner or later they break. Then the seat slides on whatever used to be the axle... this is a bad idea, because the steel axle starts cutting/eroding into the aluminum seat rail. I learned this before MS. The factory was in a hibernation, and I didn't know Lasar existed yet... Since the seats come out at annual. This makes a great time to swap out the old wheels a full set at a time. Best regards, -a- Edited June 6, 2017 by carusoam Quote
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