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Posted

Don’t forget the bent leading edge and rubber spacers…

The sheet metal screws are supposed to grip into a Tinnerman on the inside…

Tinnermans probably got old, and stopped gripping… check the other side to see if they are there….

IIRC…

PP thoughts only, not a mechanic…

Best regards,

-a-

  • Like 1
Posted
8 hours ago, carusoam said:

Don’t forget the bent leading edge and rubber spacers…

The sheet metal screws are supposed to grip into a Tinnerman on the inside…

Tinnermans probably got old, and stopped gripping… check the other side to see if they are there….

IIRC…

PP thoughts only, not a mechanic…

Best regards,

-a-

I cut the leading edge about 1” too long, then bent it in the brake and then trimmed it to the correct length in the shear. I then filed and sanded the leading edge so it wouldn’t scrape the Paint excessively. 

  • Like 2
Posted

Had similar, top screw popped out and panel sheared and bent between top 2 screws.  Simple panel to cut, opposite side is mirror image can use as as template.  But you need the beed rolled on 1 side.  
 

I would try Jerry or Alan first unless you have beed roller or access to 1. 

Posted

Later models used keyed rivnuts which allow the screws to be tightened more securely. If you use Tinnermans, make sure the sheet metal screws are type B so the thread pitch is correct.

Skip

Posted

I have one off an M20F.  I lost half of the fairing on my J and purchased a salvage fairing to get by until I could fabricate/paint a replacement.  PM me and we can work something out.

IMG_8588.JPG

  • 1 month later...
Posted

Brought the opposite side in to a paint shop for a match and just was told they have the colors ready in spray cans. Anxious to see if I can match well enough to be satisfied. Will use the same to paint my previous mistake on the the outside wing corner. Was finally able to get a hanger at KCOE and will do it when I get inside. DD

Posted (edited)

Oh, do not use sheet metal screws (AKA PK screws) in Tinnerman nut plates, be sure to use Tinnerman screws which do not have a sharp tip.

The reason is that the thread pitch and the thickness of the screw body is different, a Tinnerman screw pulls the two bent sections of the nut plate that the threads engage into the body of the screw and that serves as a self locking feature, a sheetmetal screw won’t do that.

I believe these are the proper screws

https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/hapages/trusstypeb.php

Edited by A64Pilot
  • Like 3
Posted

Hmmmmmm....... All Mooney’s are not the same -_-......it’s quite possible the mounting holes in a panel from another Mooney might not line up with the existing screw holes in your beauty.  And it’s possible they will. :D

Posted
41 minutes ago, MooneyMitch said:

Hmmmmmm....... All Mooney’s are not the same -_-......it’s quite possible the mounting holes in a panel from another Mooney might not line up with the existing screw holes in your beauty.  And it’s possible they will. :D

If Mooney’s are like most aircraft, they probably won’t. As skins are almost always hand fit the tolerance  stack up makes the final assembly deviate some.

Although it’s possible the holes in the trim piece were pre drilled and they were used to locate the nut plates, but usually the nut plates are pre-installed and they determine the location of the holes, so if it fits you got lucky

Posted

After gorgeous paint jobs from Artcraft (3 different Mooney’s), prior to re-installing fairings, I lined inner edges with clear adhesive tape in order to prevent paint irritation during empennage movement..... success!!

Posted
24 minutes ago, RobertGary1 said:

Odd mine isn’t like what is described here. Just sheet metal  screws into sheet metal. Nothing rubber. 

I didn’t see anything about rubber?

Posted
19 minutes ago, MooneyMitch said:

After gorgeous paint jobs from Artcraft (3 different Mooney’s), prior to re-installing fairings, I lined inner edges with clear adhesive tape in order to prevent paint irritation during empennage movement..... success!!

A lot of us will use blue paper painters tape for that purpose because it’s glue doesn’t leave residue

  • Like 2
Posted
On 3/1/2022 at 8:54 PM, carusoam said:

Don’t forget the bent leading edge and rubber spacers…

The sheet metal screws are supposed to grip into a Tinnerman on the inside…

Tinnermans probably got old, and stopped gripping… check the other side to see if they are there….

IIRC…

PP thoughts only, not a mechanic…

Best regards,

-a-

@A64Pilot and I are wondering about your rubber spacers. I’ve not seen that. 

Posted

Most of the tail section close out panels that I have encountered are held on with simple self tapping (PK) screws driven into the fuselage side skin and last bulkhead. They started life with #4 diameter screws. Over many Annual inspections the holes wear ever larger, when a #10 screw won’t hold anymore, people instal Riv nuts.  I’ve never seen one with plate nuts.

 

Clarence

D059FFC5-1169-4EC2-9D9A-A2136660BD60.jpeg

0D854E82-B98B-4B94-A21A-D70ED7CAFD74.jpeg

Posted
14 minutes ago, M20Doc said:

Most of the tail section close out panels that I have encountered are held on with simple self tapping (PK) screws driven into the fuselage side skin and last bulkhead. They started life with #4 diameter screws. Over many Annual inspections the holes wear ever larger, when a #10 screw won’t hold anymore, people instal Riv nuts.  I’ve never seen one with plate nuts.

 

Clarence

D059FFC5-1169-4EC2-9D9A-A2136660BD60.jpeg

0D854E82-B98B-4B94-A21A-D70ED7CAFD74.jpeg

On mine 8 of the 12 are still #4s The top and bottom on both sides have made it to #8s

Posted
10 minutes ago, N201MKTurbo said:

On mine 8 of the 12 are still #4s The top and bottom on both sides have made it to #8s

You must have a good maintainer!  I’ve only seen a few with #4 screws.

Clarence

Posted

Doc,

Have you seen the rubber spacers I reported seeing in my M20C?

Looks like somebody sliced a polyurethane tube to occupy the space…

They conveniently stuck to the paint so they didn’t get lost through the years…

 

Old fuzzy memories at best…

Best regards,

-a-

Posted

I put Teflon washers under mine--one under the screw head, one between panels. They're great for reducing friction and keeping screw heads from burying themselves in the paint layer.

  • Like 2
Posted (edited)
5 hours ago, carusoam said:

Doc,

Have you seen the rubber spacers I reported seeing in my M20C?

Looks like somebody sliced a polyurethane tube to occupy the space…

They conveniently stuck to the paint so they didn’t get lost through the years…

 

Old fuzzy memories at best…

Best regards,

-a-

My guess is someone got tired of the paint wear and installed something to prevent it.

I hate PK screws and outlawed them on the line I ran, Maule must have stock in them

Edited by A64Pilot
  • Like 1
  • 3 months later...
Posted

Does anybody know where in the parts manual this panel can be found?  I am missing some screws as well and cannot find this anywhere in the manual.  

 

 

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