One man oil change?

[Vref]

Done a lot of  Oil changes in my life inclusive on my motorglider but I am a novice on my M20J - Lycoming so I am looking for tips for my first DIY oil change?

It looks that I have a quick drain connection from SAF AIR....

How does one tackle best the lower cowling removal when being alone?

What is the size of the output barrel so I can connect a small plastic drain tube avoiding oil spills, cant't find the info..?

A part from running up the engine and of course detachig the cowl flaps is here anything else  special to pay attention to?

thanks

Luc

[Piloto]

I do the oil changes all by myself with no help on my M20J. For the oil change only there is no need to remove any of the cowlings. Just disconnect the left cowl flap link and attach a hose to the oil drain fitting. Push on the fitting flange to let the oil out. After the oil pour out close the drain valve. I fill the crankcase with one gallon of AVGAS to remove all residual oil and debris. After 15 minutes I drain the AVGAS. This insures that the case is clean and will not contaminate the new oil.

To replace the oil filter and do a general inspection you will need to remove the top and bottom cowling. After removing the top cowling disconnect the landing light wires and cowl flaps links. For a one man bottom cowling removal: unlatch all the camlocs but keep the top left and right inserted but not latched. With one hand hold the cowling on the bottom side while pulling the camlocks and side walls out. Line up the prop horizontal for better access. The cowling is pretty lightweight to hold it with one hand. You can also put a large cardboard box on the bottom to keep the cowlin in place while you remove the side walls. Then pull the box with the cowling on top.

 

José

 

[DonMuncy]

On my K model, I have a small roll-around stool that is a few inches lower than the lower cowl. After disconnecting the landing light, the cowl flaps and the camlocks, I lower the lowercowl down on the stool and roll it out of the way.

After the oil and filter change, I roll the cowling back under the engine. I have a couple of pieces of coat-hanger wire about a foot long and bent with a hook on each end. I hook one end of one wire in a centrally located camlock hole and raise that side, hooking the other end on the baffling. Then go to the other side and repeat. If necessary you can re-bend and shorten the wires alternately. Then lift and push one side into place and attach a camlock or two. Then repeat on the other side and attach the rest of the camlocks. This sounds like a tricky deal, but after the first time, and taking your time, it works very well, with little effort. 

I do have some questions about washing out the engine with avgas. Does anyone else do this?  

[jetdriven]

I also drain the oil cold.  W100 takes 2-3 days for a quart to run out of the engine into the pan. This can be seen by the rising oil levels after 2-3 day sitting.  At least we drain more of it out than after it is run.

[Piloto]

Quote: rogerl

[Piloto]

Quote: rogerl

[DaV8or]

Jose-

Why AVGAS? Why not use cheaper MOGAS?

[garytex]

I remember reading in the Lycoming Operators Manual, 60297-12 for the O-360 family that the minimum oil operating quantity is 2 quarts. The oil filter on my Cheetah was a sob to get off, and every other oil change was just that, an oil change.  I would drain the oil, pour in 3 quarts, run it at about 1000 rpm for a few minutes, drain that, put in 6 and fly away.  I suspect that I will not be comfortable not opening the filter and looking for pieces large enough to have part numbers on them in the screen on my just purchased F for the first few oil changes, as I am not familiar with the engine yet, but I'll get there.

Gary   

[Vref]

Quote: Piloto

I do the oil changes all by myself with no help on my M20J. For the oil change only there is no need to remove any of the cowlings. Just disconnect the left cowl flap link and attach a hose to the oil drain fitting. Push on the fitting flange to let the oil out. After the oil pour out close the drain valve. I fill the crankcase with one gallon of AVGAS to remove all residual oil and debris. After 15 minutes I drain the AVGAS. This insures that the case is clean and will not contaminate the new oil.

To replace the oil filter and do a general inspection you will need to remove the top and bottom cowling. After removing the top cowling disconnect the landing light wires and cowl flaps links. For a one man bottom cowling removal: unlatch all the camlocs but keep the top left and right inserted but not latched. With one hand hold the cowling on the bottom side while pulling the camlocks and side walls out. Line up the prop horizontal for better access. The cowling is pretty lightweight to hold it with one hand. You can also put a large cardboard box on the bottom to keep the cowlin in place while you remove the side walls. Then pull the box with the cowling on top.

 

José

 

[Txbyker]

Does anyone have any tricks to remove the oil filter without making a mess?

[bnicolette]

Quote: txbyker

Does anyone have any tricks to remove the oil filter without making a mess?

[jetdriven]

put a 1 gallon ziploc or other plastic bag over the filter, and turn slowly until it begins to drip, then shove the bag on real far and spin it fast.

[MARZ]

Quote: Bnicolette

 

I use this contraption and it works beautifully:

http://www.formafunnel.com/

[Piloto]

Quote: txbyker

Does anyone have any tricks to remove the oil filter without making a mess?

[Piloto]

Quote: txbyker

Does anyone have any tricks to remove the oil filter without making a mess?

[bnicolette]

On this issue I have heard that it is best to take an oil sample for the laboratory when the oil is warm as this will ensure a good test.  Is this true or doesn't it matter?

I always had my oil sample done at oil change and always made sure the engine was warm before I drained the oil, but after reading on here, it seems it's best to drain it when it's cold, it just needs to set a couple days?  I suppose I could take a sample anytime and it doesn't have to be in conjunction with an oil change?

Thoughts?

[Vref]

Quote: Piloto

At normal temperatures it takes about a week for all the oil to drain to the sump. At cold temperatures (below 40f) you definitely need to pour gas into the sump to drain out all the melaza.

 

José

[Piloto]

Quote: Vref

[Piloto]

Quote: Vref

MMMhmm...so a half way house is still running the engine and letting it drip a couple of days...but then again the engine gets cold and the viscosity will change etc....Maybe you have a point here José...?

So would mogas be a problem as a flush agent....for poor europeans.....a difficult liability question....?

Luc

[DaV8or]

Maybe you can go to a maintenance shop and get some free AVGAS as they drain it from time to time to do fuel tank repairs and they usually won't let it go back in a plane for liability reasons. I understand they mostly use it in tugs and lawnmowers because it's not good for cars either. One shop told me it was actually a hassle to get rid of. If you only ask for a gallon, they'll know that you're not asking for it to put in your plane and go fly. Might be worth try.

[Txbyker]

Brett, Byron, you guys are too smart.  Thanks for the tips.  Formafunnel - another one of those simple tools that probably makes somebody a good fortune.

[Hank]

Quote: Vref

Done a lot of Oil changes in my life inclusive on my motorglider but I am a novice on my M20J - Lycoming so I am looking for tips for my first DIY oil change?

It looks that I have a quick drain connection from SAF AIR....

[stevesm20b]

I have found a way to remove the oil filter with out spilling any oil. I first drain the oil out of the engine, then I punch a small hole in the top back part of the filter. I use a rubber tipped blow gun to blow compressed air into the filter for 2 min. Then you can remove the filter from the engine without spilling any oil. Any questions?

[jetdriven]

That air could contaminate the engine.

Just kidding,   Thats a great idea.

[stevesm20b]

You don't have to worry about blowing contaminates from the air or from the dirty side of the oil filter back into the engine because, all oil filters have an anti drainback feature that will only let oil (or air) travel one way through the filter. And your blowing the air through the dirty side of the filter. So, the air has to travel through the filter material just like the oil. So, it gets filtered too.