Soundproofing experiences

[Kwixdraw]

Has anyone done any soundproofing to their aircraft and what products do you recommend.

[jlunseth]

You have to be really careful what you use.  Some of the sound proofing insulation was a wool type, and not what is spec'd for the aircraft.  The wool type retains moisture and rests against the frame members, causing corrosion.  Not sure where the spec is on the insulation but you might look in the corrosion inspection SB, that might be SB208, just going from memory could be wrong.

[Clarence]

I just redid my soundproofing. I got the new stuff from Lake Aero. I got it by the foot off of the roll but you can get it pre cut for a more money. If you have the time, it's not bad measuring and cutting. But while I had the interior yanked out, I went ahead and had the seats redone with new foam and leather. Also, I am still working on getting my side panels repaired and repainted.

Take lots if pics to remember how everything goes back together.

This is not Clarance. This is flhelo...Larry

[flhelo]

Ok, so I dont know why it had me logged in as someone else!!

[Ned Gravel]

Larry:

I did the same thing.  My girl and I spent a Saturday cutting and putting it up and along the sides. While I had everything out, we plumbed in the new 406 MHz ELT, re-installed the dome light and put in a cabin speaker (because the GMA 340 can actually power one) and replaced the broken overhead potentiometer for the shoulder lights.

Funny thing about your post is I think Clarence also bought the same stuff last year and used it too.  He is the one who told me about it in the first place. We got ours from the local Spruce shop (we actually have one in Canada).  I got 5 rolled feet of it and we had about two square feet left over when it was done.

Was yours the black stuff with the sticky backing too?

[Hank]

Quote: flhelo

Ok, so I dont know why it had me logged in as someone else!!

[Kwixdraw]

Thanks. Since my J is a major resto project I've been seriously thinking of doing some unusual things to help with the interior comfort. I read the soundproofing books you usually see and thought I might go with a thin layer on the skin and a thin layer on the interior panel to end up with a "dead zone" between them. Hopefully this would give better performance for the amount of insulation installed. My plastic is pretty trashed so I am redoing some of the panel pieces in composites and others in aluminum, depending on which is needed for it's particular traits. All done according to FARs just trying to get a better end result. I'm in the clean and paint/corrosion proof stage right now so no pics unless you love to see gutted Mooneys.

[flhelo]

Quote: edgargravel

Larry:

I did the same thing.  My girl and I spent a Saturday cutting and putting it up and along the sides. While I had everything out, we plumbed in the new 406 MHz ELT, re-installed the dome light and put in a cabin speaker (because the GMA 340 can actually power one) and replaced the broken overhead potentiometer for the shoulder lights.

Funny thing about your post is I think Clarence also bought the same stuff last year and used it too.  He is the one who told me about it in the first place. We got ours from the local Spruce shop (we actually have one in Canada).  I got 5 rolled feet of it and we had about two square feet left over when it was done.

Was yours the black stuff with the sticky backing too?

[KSMooniac]

I'd recommend not going overboard with soundproofing... it can add a lot of weight and really eat into your useful load.  Thicker windows will do this too.  Modern ANR headsets will help much more than a bunch of soundproofing and save weight.

[Kwixdraw]

Well aware of the useful load issue. Thats why I want to go with two thin layers to kill the resonance between the skins and the interior panels. I'm just looking to do it smarter not crazier. Since I'm rebuilding engine baffling too, I think I'm going to go with the McFarland low friction baffle seal to see if I can cut out some drumming vibration there too. If nothing else it might make the cowl flaps and hardware last a little longer. I'm told that with sound energy a small change makes a big difference.

[PTK]

Quote: KSMooniac

I'd recommend not going overboard with soundproofing... it can add a lot of weight and really eat into your useful load.  Thicker windows will do this too.  Modern ANR headsets will help much more than a bunch of soundproofing and save weight.

[Shadrach]

Quote: Kwixdraw

Well aware of the useful load issue. Thats why I want to go with two thin layers to kill the resonance between the skins and the interior panels. I'm just looking to do it smarter not crazier. Since I'm rebuilding engine baffling too, I think I'm going to go with the McFarland low friction baffle seal to see if I can cut out some drumming vibration there too. If nothing else it might make the cowl flaps and hardware last a little longer. I'm told that with sound energy a small change makes a big difference.