Basic Member
  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

1 Neutral

About Kwixdraw

  • Rank
    Senior Member
  1. Can the gear be powder coated?

    One drawback I have noticed with powder coating (AKA powder painting) is that the electrical charge that attracts the powder has a difficult time getting into some angles at tube junctions The Eastwood dual voltage gun has a low setting that is supposed to help with this but it is not 100%. This leaves a bare area, typically at a weld, that could set up corrosion at a location difficult to see. Also, if corrosion gets started under the stuff it tends to peel.
  2. Trailering a disassembled Mooney

    Hey thanks for all the replies folks. I was internet deficient for a while and was not able to keep tabs on you all. I will do some calculating and see if I can do it similar to Don Maxwell but on a 23 foot car/utility trailer. That will be a long week on the road I bet.
  3. Trailering a disassembled Mooney

    I wonder what he did with that 36' wing?
  4. Does anyone have photos of a Mooney ( not salvage) being trailered or shipped?
  5. Horsepower Plus STC Pirep

    I investigated this stc a good bit. There are some restrictions on mp that limit it's usefulness and are not very clearly explained in the marketing hype. Expensive parts and not easy to find if something needs replacement acording to the folks at Lycon. Their take is that new std cylinders and piston can be made to make as much horsepower with a good port and valve seat cleanup. Check with Lycon for details.
  6. Mooney: Underpowered Runway Hog

    Quote: WardHolbrook Don't mean to be critical, but you took off when "There was no way to see what the TO performance/distance was supposed to be, it was off the chart..." I'm glad the takeoff was successful, but it seems like it was a rather foolish thing to do. We had pretty much all the runway we could ever use and I had a hard line to abort the TO if I had not been able to lift off by half the runway length. I'm not incautious or suicidal. It was a former F-102 base and has really long runways for just this type DA situation.
  7. Mooney: Underpowered Runway Hog

    There is quite a bit of back and forth among Bonanza pilots over the TO/ldg performance of the various models. Generally the older lighter ones seem to be the best for unpaved, tight space locations. The only time I ever felt the J was a runway hog was one time when the temp was 107 f and it was trying hard to rain. There was no way to see what the TO performance/distance was supposed to be, it was off the chart. I calculated the density altitude and loading and the climb chart said she would go up at 350 FPM. It was a long roll to get airborne but she did indeed go up at 350 fpm.
  8. 201 Cowling for Pre J Mooney's

    The James cowls mentioned earlier do appear to be kevlar. Lots of materials get applied just because they have a mystique about them in the publics mind. Not saying CF isn't great stuff just that there are cost and operational realities to any of these materals which like most things aviation means trade offs.
  9. 201 Cowling for Pre J Mooney's

    Quote: DaV8or Good question because carbon fiber and reasonably priced don't usually go in the same sentence. For the very minor weight savings, I would much prefer traditional fiberglass at a lower cost myself.
  10. Hairline cracks in top cowling

    Check . Good products and info on proper use for various applications.
  11. You will want to think about getting it up off the tires too. If it's just going to be sitting and not moved for 6-9 months. Get into the service manual and find the section on storage. It will have suggestions on fuel and battery care. Lots of issues.
  12. The dessicant plugs are a good idea. Also find a dessicant bag for the exhaust pipe. One or more valves will be open so you have outside air getting into the engine. I have heard of people leaving a low wattage light bulb on inside the cowl to drive out moist air. That may not be the safest thing to do if it's not going to be monitored at all.
  13. Yours must have been in pretty good shape Byron. The tanks on mine were corrosion pitted badly & it popped under pressure. I have been through their facility and it is a neat thing to see. They do a lot with warbirds and even formula 1 cars. I drive a Ford Powerstroke and those have some nasty problems with the liquid-liquid heat exchangers. They invited me to bring one in and see if they could clean it. If they couldn't do it there would be no charge.
  14. Also a good time to get your oil cooler cleaned or replaced. Pacific Oil Cooler has a nice PMA cooler that replaces the more expensive Stuart-Warner. Around $500 but check with them for current pricing. They can also overhaul yours if it's in good shape. You should consider the condition of your prop and governor. The prop will collect centrifuged crud in it's internals. If it's due for overhaul do that. If it's not then at least consider having it inspected and resealed. This will make sure it's clean inside and not running crap through your new engine. Same deal with the governor though they don't have near the ability to hide crud in them. There have been many updates on them since new and mine ran me $1400 to overhaul at Santa Monica Propellor because all of the internals were obsolete.
  15. Check your cooling baffles and repair or replace as needed. Mine have a lot of corrosion on them and the holes where the spring hold the baffles close to the cylinders on the bottom had additional hole from vibration wearing through them. I'm re-enforcing those tabs and the holes using a small brass grommet from a saddle shop. This is also a good time to delete the ram air and modify the air box if needed. Mine had a hole worn in the bottom from the cable housing vibrating against it so more repairs. If you delete the ram air you should also close up the hole in the lower cowling. The landing light is a par 46. A par 36 is the smaller diameter light like in a 231. Check your camlocks in the cowl and at the front of the nose gear well. The aluminum section where the camlock receptile is was worn badly from the nose gear doors on mine and had started to crack the stainless section that closes off the nose gear well. Check the stud for your steering horn while you have this area open so you can see how worn it is and can decide if you want to do Lasers STC at this time. This one can save you a nasty loss of control incident if you fix it before it breaks.