Cannot lean mixture without opening cowl flaps

[bonal]

Lol Find the hidden objects 

[Guest]

Loose/ unsecured ignition wires.

Loose/ unsecured MAP air line.

Tyraps on engine mounts.

Rotten/ missing Adel clamps on Scat ducting.

Scat ducting in poor condition.

Missing baffle retaining screw on cylinder 2.

No fire sleeve on oil cooler hoses.

Dog house has holes.

Dog house access panels not sealed.

Oil pressure hose not secured.

Someone has stolen 4 of your cylinders!

Clarence

 

 

[bonal]

Duly noted annual next month will point out issues not sure what I can do about the missing cylinders I swear they were there last time I looked

will now return thread to original programming 

[Hector]

Loose/ unsecured ignition wires.

Loose/ unsecured MAP air line.

Tyraps on engine mounts.

Rotten/ missing Adel clamps on Scat ducting.

Scat ducting in poor condition.

Missing baffle retaining screw on cylinder 2.

No fire sleeve on oil cooler hoses.

Dog house has holes.

Dog house access panels not sealed.

Oil pressure hose not secured.

Someone has stolen 4 of your cylinders!

Clarence

 

 

Ok. Got those except the bit about dog house access panels not sealed. Mine are not either and I did not know they were supposed to be sealed. My dog house is in good shape and the dog house access panels fit tightly. Should they be sealed? With what? Thanks

[Guest]

6 hours ago, Hector said:

Ok. Got those except the bit about dog house access panels not sealed. Mine are not either and I did not know they were supposed to be sealed. My dog house is in good shape and the dog house access panels fit tightly. Should they be sealed? With what? Thanks

There are gaps between the head baffles and the access panels, they are either loose of leaking, a bit of black RTV would fill the void.  Also failed to mention the battery box lid is not sitting in the cable grommet.

Clarence

[jlunseth]

I don't fly a J, I fly a 231, and I have a different model of JPI, I have the 930, but I have a couple of thoughts for you.  Can you run a lean test on your JPI?  If you can, then I would do that and it should tell you whether your hot cylinder is because of fuel flow or a cooling issue.  If the hot cylinder peaks at a significantly different point than the other three, then either you have a plugged injector, or you need to get that injector swapped for a correctly size one with GAMI so the cylinder fuel flows the same as the others.  If your test shows that the cylinder is peaking about when the others peak, then your problem is cooling, or at least something other than fuel flow ( bad probe possibly).

I wouldn't run my engine according to the POH.  There are some good settings in my POH, and some really bad ones.  Some of the charts have cruise settings at peak Turbine Inlet Temperature.  Running at peak is just about the worst place you can run the engine, and you would have to been flying is some very cold OATs to keep the CHT's under control. The CHT redline in my aircraft is 460.  Apparently, the factory thought it was ok to run the cylinders in the 400s routinely, because that is what you would get a peak TIT.  Read Mike Busch's stuff or go to an APS seminar.

[markejackson02]

FWIW, I have about 75 hours on a newly overhauled engine in a 78 J and have been having a similar issue with the #4 cylinder.  Can't keep it under 425 without the cowl flaps open.  Puttered with the baffles, RTV around oil cooler, etc. etc. etc.  Was resigned to flying with the cowl flaps open at high power/high temps (in South Texas = all the time).

Then I changed the oil.

Screwed up and dropped the filter while changing it.  Oil EVERYWHERE.  Probably a quart all over the engine compartment.

Went flying later.  Oil all out the bottom, all out the sides.  To be expected.  What I didn't expect was that a ton of oil got blasted out the front of the cowling.

After some research, it turns out the cowl flaps on the earlier J models should be rigged to be trailing 1/2 to 1" in the full closed position.  According to Bob Kromer, if they are less than 1/2" in trail, the 201 cowling behaves just like the C and E cowlings and actually blows air back out the bottom of the front inlets.

I am going to reset all the cowl flaps this weekend and take advantage of the heat down here to test it out and see how it goes.

Least the heat will be good for something.

[flyboy0681]

On 6/11/2016 at 11:06 PM, bonal said:

Lol Find the hidden objects 

Garden hose?

[bonal]

3 hours ago, flyboy0681 said:

Garden hose?

I don't think it is but I will mention it when I drop by to see how things are going on the annual.  It really is green though

[Guest]

4 hours ago, flyboy0681 said:

Garden hose?

I thought so to, but some Cessna models use a similar looking green vent/vacuum hose.

Clarence

[Tim Jodice]

With the weather warmer I am running to this exact problem. Friday and today I had to go to about 50-75 LOP with approximately a 5 knot loss to keep Cylinder 1 between at about 380-400. All of the other cylinders are 350 or lower and oil is 1/3 -1/2 on the factory scale.

A little background, I replaced the baffles at annual because even in the winter the engine was running hot on all cylinders and they were in bad condition. The new baffles made a big difference, brought all of the cylinder and oil temperature down. None of the cylinders have the spark plug thermocouple. It has a fuel spread of .5 cylinder 1 is the second from the last to peak.  This is only in cruise with the cowl flaps closed. Full rich cowl flaps open in the climb it is easy to keep it below 380 however cylinder 1 is still the hottest cylinder. All I have done so far is swap thermocouples with no change. Bonanza friends talk about a non factory cooling mod that takes care of a temperature issue with I think cylinder 6. Are there any for J models?

Thoughts?

[Bob - S50]

Checked the #1 fuel injector for dirt?

[Tim Jodice]

9 minutes ago, Bob - S50 said:

Checked the #1 fuel injector for dirt?

I feel like a dumb ass. No I haven't. Something so simple yet I over look it. I will do that tonight.

Thanks

[carusoam]

Got any JPI data to share...

We are pretty good at looking at graphs too...

Best regards,

-a-

[Tim Jodice]

12 hours ago, carusoam said:

Got any JPI data to share...

We are pretty good at looking at graphs too...

Best regards,

-a-

I don't. I have an older insight.

[mooneyflyfast]

Here's your answer. The no. 1 clyinder on our Js have a baffle in front of them that blocks a good part of the airflow.  Trim about 3/4 inch off it and your no. 1 will go from hottest cyl. to coolest.  My mechanic made a new one for me in about 10 minutes.  There is a thread on here from several years ago that covers this.  Good luck!

[Tim Jodice]

On 5/5/2020 at 1:13 PM, mooneyflyfast said:

Here's your answer. The no. 1 clyinder on our Js have a baffle in front of them that blocks a good part of the airflow.  Trim about 3/4 inch off it and your no. 1 will go from hottest cyl. to coolest.  My mechanic made a new one for me in about 10 minutes.  There is a thread on here from several years ago that covers this.  Good luck!

You are my hero! HUGE difference! Just as you said it is now the coolest cylinder, cooled down by about 30-40 degrees. Thank you for the help.

[Tim Jodice]

Did I say thank you 

[LANCECASPER]

On 5/8/2020 at 9:18 AM, airtim said:

Did I say thank you 

Just an FYI, the rubber boots for your Shadin Fuel Flow can be purchased form online electronics suppliers such as DigiKey and onlinecomponents.com.  Here are the P/N’s you will need:

Short boot - Tyco P/N 1825615-1 (for the Enter/Test button)

Long boot - Tyco P/N 1825609-1 (for the Top toggle)

[ArtVandelay]

Here's your answer. The no. 1 clyinder on our Js have a baffle in front of them that blocks a good part of the airflow.  Trim about 3/4 inch off it and your no. 1 will go from hottest cyl. to coolest.  My mechanic made a new one for me in about 10 minutes.  There is a thread on here from several years ago that covers this.  Good luck!

On my J, the #2 is the coolest by about 30°. I have baffle on #1 that is about 1.5” FWIW.


Tom

[Tim Jodice]

2 hours ago, LANCECASPER said:

Just an FYI, the rubber boots for your Shadin Fuel Flow can be purchased form online electronics suppliers such as DigiKey and onlinecomponents.com.  Here are the P/N’s you will need:

Short boot - Tyco P/N 1825615-1 (for the Enter/Test button)

Long boot - Tyco P/N 1825609-1 (for the Top toggle)

Thank you! In the 6 months I have had my Mooney I lost track how much all of you on MooneySpace have helped me.

[EricJ]

1 hour ago, ArtVandelay said:

On my J, the #2 is the coolest by about 30°. I have baffle on #1 that is about 1.5” FWIW.


Tom

Mine's the same, #2 runs 30-40 degrees cooler than the rest, which run within a few degrees of each other.     Ran circles around myself for a while trying to figure out what was wrong, and I think I finally just decided that that's what it does.

I thought about adding a 3/4" or so baffle plate in front of it, but now I'm thinking it's not that big of a deal.

[mooneyflyfast]

10 hours ago, ArtVandelay said:

On my J, the #2 is the coolest by about 30°. I have baffle on #1 that is about 1.5” FWIW.


Tom

Why would you want a baffle to cut cooling airflow from a cyl. that is running hot?  

[Guest]

Here is the baffle in question.  I’ve seen it installed upside down on some installations.

Clarence

[ArtVandelay]

Why would you want a baffle to cut cooling airflow from a cyl. that is running hot?  

None of mine are running hot, just #2 runs cooler than rest.