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Posted

I am looking for an autocad drawing of a standard 6 pack layout on for a 1966 M20C panel, any help would be much appreciated. 

 

Thank you

Mike

Posted

I upgraded the shotgun panel in my A model.  I got the original drawings from Mooney to build mine from.  I'll look and see when the last revision was made to the drawing, but  I'm sure they did not change the panel because it was so integral to the steel tube frame and so many other aspects of the short body aircraft.  Anyway, I worked up a CAD drawing that does the trick.  You can look at the photos in my album.  Warning...prepare yourself for a seemingly endless task...

Posted (edited)

Your best bet may be to pull it apart, take a whole slew of measurements and trace off the curves. You won't reuse the shotgun holes anyway, you just want the outline, right? Then draw it up in the CAD program of your choice, or whatever you have available. I've recently lost access to AutoCAD.  :(

Edited by Hank
Posted (edited)

Mike20Papa PM sent. 

So I made one panel in the machine shop already by flattening the bent panel tracing the outline as a pattern then fly cutting 8 holes but quickly run of room for things like annunciators, ignition switches, etc... When I look at the pics of panels on here everyone seems to have much more room than I've got by using the original as a pattern.  While I can make another panel with larger dimensions it would be considerably faster to get a known good cad file and have it zipped out on the cnc machine. That way I know the gauges will clear the mounting lip as well as the yoke shaft. 

I don't have access to play with cad either otherwise that is what I would do but I have a friend that can have something cut for me at work out of their scrap if I give him the file. 

Edited by MCDsiena
Posted

Here's the CAD drawing used by avionics shop for my panel upgrade on a '68C with a single piece near vertical panel (8 degree tilt, I think?)-  I'm guessing it's no different from the '66.  It has the aspen pfd in place of the center of the 6pack, but it should be close

 

56d7c656736d1_PanelCAD.png.4bb5a38d29fe6.

Posted (edited)

This is similar to how my panel is arranged.  I suggest that you divide it into 3 sections left panel, center stack and right panel.  The reason is that if work needs to be done behind the panel and it needs to be removed you can deal with it in sections and not have to take the whole panel out.

 

Finally watch where the ignition key is placed mine is cumbersome to get to it is too far left.

 

 

Edited by 1964-M20E
Posted

Way left ignition is good. Just keep it down low, so that the other keys on the keyring won't dangle down and block instruments, scratch faces, etc. Look at in-flight panel shots here, you'll see several with keys dangling in front of dials.

Posted

I used Lasars pre-cut panel for the left side and don't regret it. It takes a little tweaking but my mechanic is very competent and it came out very much to my liking.

Pnl.15.jpg

  • Like 3
Posted

That is exactly what I am looking for. I am going to call LASAR now. Although I doubt they will share their dimensions and will likely charge mucho dinero for something I can have cut for free. 

Posted
2 hours ago, MCDsiena said:

That is exactly what I am looking for. I am going to call LASAR now. Although I doubt they will share their dimensions and will likely charge mucho dinero for something I can have cut for free. 

Since the instruments are standard size you should be able to get measurements from the photo.

Posted (edited)
4 hours ago, MCDsiena said:

That is exactly what I am looking for. I am going to call LASAR now. Although I doubt they will share their dimensions and will likely charge mucho dinero for something I can have cut for free. 

LASAR was very generous with me.  I wanted to put a flush mounted Aspen in their 9-hole, but they didn't offer that.  So what does Dan do?  He gives me the contact info for their CAD guy, who just happened to live across town.  He sent me the file and I had my own CAD guy tweak the drawing to add the Aspen.  I'm not finished yet, so cannot declare success (I have turned out scrap before), but optimism is very high.  There's some sub-panel trimming to do with the 9-hole, but not insurmountable.  Dan sold me the mounting hardware as a kit which included the standoffs and little aluminum gap filler for the panel right side.  

Below is just out of powder coat.  I located (not part of the CAD) the mount holes and gear lights, master switch, mags, and vacuum guage myself.  I'll post a picture when I get it done... I had a spare panel made just in case I did turn out scrap since the cost was not that much more for two.  I used Quality Metal Fabrication in Auburn, CA.  Greg there was great to work with. 

 

image.jpeg

Edited by 47U
Attached picture...
Posted

That picture is very helpful. I am going to try and draw it out with accurate dimensions and get into my engineer friends hands and hopefully he is bored enough to transfer it into cad for me. This is my first attempt using the original as a template.  Its just too tight around the left side and not enough room on top for my md41-444 annunciator. IMG_2987.thumb.JPG.a6a3abd209ae31896f45c

IMG_2986.thumb.JPG.0fc29da30537b3f9cab37

Posted

I like the factory "angled six pack" on my C, it makes room for more instruments. I count ten (10), a small vacuum gage and ignition away from everything. No, I don't have any drawings other than the one in the Owners Manual showing which instruments are which.image.thumb.jpg.9d3024125b381b17bf9329d1

Posted

Good time to consider the the carb temp gauge for the C Panel.

or JPI or other engine monitor....

Seeing Hank's panel reminded of that.

Best regards,

-a-

  • Like 1
Posted

This is what I drew up tonight in a free online cad program. Its a start based off all the pictures everyone posted, thank you for the help. 

panel drawing.JPG

Posted

Most of these panel up grades eliminate the rubber shock mounts, bad idea unless you are eliminating all mechanical gyros and CDI's or just don't fly much or like replacing them on a regular basis...

Also, you need to first consult with your A&P/AI and ask him what he is willing to sign off on.  What he will require as far as 337's, etc.  Mine required me to go thru a FSDO and get pre-approvals.  I spent over a year just doing this...I had to submit, revise, resubmit 3 times, with FSDO guys all on government time... That's where I had to get serious with the CAD drawings, etc.  I might work with you on something, but my time, experience and abilities, like any one else's, were hard earned, so they AIN'T FREE.

  • Like 2
Posted

While following the gracious advice above, keep in mind that there are a few structural pieces hiding behind the panel.  Thinking in 3D will be helpful.

Best regards,

-a-

Posted

Thank you everyone for the help, I think I have enough from your pictures to get me started.  I'll post my progress if I make any. 

Posted
4 hours ago, mike20papa said:

Most of these panel up grades eliminate the rubber shock mounts, bad idea unless you are eliminating all mechanical gyros and CDI's or just don't fly much or like replacing them on a regular basis...

Also, you need to first consult with your A&P/AI and ask him what he is willing to sign off on.  What he will require as far as 337's, etc.  Mine required me to go thru a FSDO and get pre-approvals.  I spent over a year just doing this...I had to submit, revise, resubmit 3 times, with FSDO guys all on government time... That's where I had to get serious with the CAD drawings, etc.  I might work with you on something, but my time, experience and abilities, like any one else's, were hard earned, so they AIN'T FREE.

You make a couple of excellent points.  Certainly the attachment of the new panel should replicate the original design.  The LASAR install kit included all new shock mounts and standoffs of the correct length.  Ironically, two of the three .040" angle bracket standoffs riveted to the top of my orignial panel were cracked.  I'm sure mine are not the exception.  

Gaining the approval of your A&P/IA is also important.  Although swapping one piece of sheet metal for another is simple at face value, the ramifications of making a mistake could be expensive, if not worse.  My personal opinion is that if you keep it simple, it's a minor alteration and log book entry.  The difference in weight between my .050" original panel with plastic overlay and new .090" panel is negligble.  In my case, I don't have to replumb or rewire anything.  I'm signing off the panel swap and letting the avionics shop sign off the Aspen install on a separte entry.  If you're not the one signing the log book or next annual inspection, you'd best be talking to your A&P/IA to satisfy their expectations before you begin.

Posted

I'm looking to get my panel cut myself with a water-jet. But to do so, I need DXF, PNG, or other CAD like 2D file format. The JPG format attached above can't be read by machinery. Does anyone have a copy they can share? I have a '69 M20E, but there is likely little different in the outer perimeter until some of the more recent models.

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