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mike20papa

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About mike20papa

  • Rank
    Senior Member

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  • Reg #
    N8335E
  • Model
    M20A

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  1. I've owned an A model for over ten years and (call me different) purposefully looked for one to purchase! 1. This was the last aircraft Al Mooney designed - the last AC with his name on the type certificate. Al was at his zenith when the A model rolled out of the Kerrville factory. Al never designed an AC without a wood wing. The A model wing is lighter. MY airplane sits on it's gear lighter than any other mooney Ive ever seen. The Lord disks barely compressed. 2. Subsequent models suffered loss of performance and suffer from "wet wing" issues, corrosion and .. well, alum
  2. The mounts in the photo are COMPLETELY worthless. No amount of washers, wishing or hoping will bring them back to life. The log books should show when last replaced. ( I bet over 500 hrs. and/or 10 yr.s) Order either Lords or Barry both are made to the same specification. When you swap them out (and I'm talking on the 180hp motor) take the battery box out and get ready for some work. The bolts angle in and nothing wants to line up until the motor is up against the mount and the motor is not up against the mount until the bolts are in ... ?! Best wishes. But, at least you don't have to
  3. You would need to remove the wing from the fuselage to really get an exact assessment of the damage. Looks like with this kind of water intrusion that corrosion to the steel fuselage components in this area is very likely. My condolences. Any thing is repairable, but recouping the expense vs. replacing with serviceable components will be the difficult call. And yes, there is a plywood cover to the spar in this area, but the damage looks to go deeper than this area. Remember, the outer parts of the spar (furthest from the neutral axis_) carry the greatest stress. Any repairs would r
  4. I'd call Zeftronic. Sometimes the old guys will say ".. that's what you get for having all that fancy instrumentation .."
  5. Just as a note .. when changing out the donuts on my (low time) A model - the most worn parts in the gear where the two pivot bolts that attach the nose wheel trunnion to the airframe. They were deformed and allowing play into the retract mechanism. Would suggest inspecting these at nose gear OH. Joe
  6. AN9 -24A is what is called out in my A model book for the bolt at bottom of shock tower. Double check the grip length, but I bet these are the same thru the J.
  7. There are several suppliers of AN bolts and hardware that the "ususal" go to's don't carry. Search AN9-(determine the length) and you maybe surprised. For example SKYGEEK carries AN9-52 .. Good Luck. If you are looking for the retaining bolt for the collar at top of shock tower - look at "clevis bolts"
  8. I didn't notice any noise reduction, but I wasn't expecting it. I first used this black sealant https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/windowsealant.php I DO NOT recommend this material! Very difficult and awful to use - I actually installed the window with it first, such disgusting material, I removed the windshield and spent hours (plus) removing this stuff. I used a non hardening white butyl rubber (sheet metal, typically) comes in a caulk gun tube. It has performed well. I wanted a flexible sealant to possibly help prevent thermal (and it's considerable) movement crack
  9. In my A model I upgraded to the one piece .25" LP Aero UV guard shield. It is not an easy job, but I think worth the up-grade. Sealant choice is critical. You have to shape the edges along the bottom to fit in the original channel designed for a thinner piece of plastic. I used a pneumatic rotary file fitted with a sanding drum.
  10. If you are asking about the suction screen .. YES. Do not remove it from the sump or else you will have a gallon plus of oil let loose to deal with. If you are asking about the high, at the accessory case pressure screen - you can remove it with "minimal" oil leakage. But why?? This should be concurrent with the oil change - so just wait - unless you have oil pressure or other concerns - or just go ahead and drain/change the oil?!
  11. Finally, the answer. I think there is/was some confusion with this topic as some do not realize that "while all angle valve engines are wide deck engines - not all wide deck engines are angle valve engines." But at least you can rest easy knowing all eligible 180hp engines are parallel valve engines. Joe
  12. My A model has the speaker mounted thru the cabin roof with 2 - #10 screws. I see one #10 (?) screw about 6" forward of the GPS antenna. You might check it.
  13. I've had experience with the light weight starter and alternator. The mods are in the front baffle - to close up the original larger holes for the smaller starter and alternator drives. I would imagine that you will also need new "inter cyl. baffles" that are mounted just below the cyl.s - but that is a Lycoming part. Google the parts manuals for the 2 engines and check the part numbers - or call Lycoming. I do not think the side baffles will require any thing. Again, I would call Lycoming and ask them if the bolt holes have different patterns. Hopefully not or else you will have to make
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