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About mike20papa

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  1. When was the last time your oil cooler was flushed out. (probably never) The manual on these oil coolers require periodic flushing as a part of continued airworthiness.
  2. So, is the cyl. overhauled - not new, correct? And why an OH stud assembly as opposed to new? Was just oil consumption the problem? The piston is original, vs new? What you have changed is cyl. wall plating and rings - only. Did the cyl. shop do all of the work - clean /check the piston, fit the new rings, send you back a complete assembly? To me .. cleaning piston ring grooves is not worth the price of a new piston - they are the most reasonably priced piece of the whole assembly. Simply checking ring gaps by fitting a ring down in the cyl. then assembling on an old carboned up piston may be giving a false indication of fit. Did you fit the piston pins yourself? Did you put new pin plugs in? How did the pin feel in the rod end? Have you bore scoped the cyl? Checked to see if any scoring is going on. I'd be cautious with continued flying.
  3. Skytech 149NL has served me with out fail for over ten years. You will need to close the area in the front baffle around the smaller drive housing - or else wonder why you now have increased oil temps with a new starter.
  4. Great to see an A model get this upgrade. Especially envious of the two Garmin displays - no need to shock mount the flight panel. Joe, '59 A model N8335E
  5. mike20papa

    new paint

  6. The guy's question concerned starting a B model. Also it was NOT a hot start question. The B model with an O-360 - has no fuel servo, cause it has a carburetor. You are complicating things, here.
  7. If you have not flown in months - there's a chance no fuel in the carb bowl. turn the master on, turn the aux. fuel pump on till you see a few pounds psi. turn it off. pump the throttle (acc. pump) about 4 full strokes. mixture rich, crack the throttle, make the left mag hot then hit the starter. good luck. Also, not a bad idea to pull the top plugs, spin the engine and pre-oil the motor. especially when it's been sitting for a while.
  8. My first try - after I had read up on all the maintenance material - would be to tighten the chain.
  9. the Stearman I fly is an early model Navy N2S - check lists just coming into use. There is a place holder for one on the right side of the panel - 5 X 7 card. There is an aluminum box that you can "reach" between your feet labeled "aircraft data" but most of them have been removed. I keep FAA required paper work in it. And the seats ... they adjust up & down - not forward & back. Until you get time in one - you can't appreciate why.
  10. To the poor fellow with the 11 page check list .. tell him to go get some Stearman time - look for an old guy/instructor with 1000+ hours dusting .. that should cure him.
  11. Regardless of what oil you run, best insurance is to fly the airplane every +/-10 days - even if for only .5 hours. get the oil temp to 180 degrees. good for the battery and even your flying skills. do an "impossible no flap landings" ?!
  12. In my A model I had the original two piece windshield. I decided to replace it with the 1/4" one piece unit. It improved the visibility and certainly upgrades the exterior appearance to get rid of the old vert. divider strip - in my opinion. Any noise reduction was not detected. Fitting the new, thicker windshield is a challenge and time consuming. Note the beveled edges in the attached photos. I would never consider installing a 201 style windshield and loose the ability to access/work behind the panel. I think the biggest decision is what type of sealant to use. I'll save that topic for later. Also, I dimpled the alumn. and counter sunk the glass enough to use flush head crews on final install. That was probably the best decision - cleaned up the over all appearance. Joe
  13. Yes, I agree with that statement. Having seen the patched up lower cowlings around the intake filter and the associated sheet metal around air filters beat up due to engine vibration. I have even seen the breeze clamps nearly chew a hole thru the bottom of the cowling air scoop due to vibration. It;s all a poor design. Actually, the rubber boot is great for axial/front to rear movement, but poor for lateral engine vibration movement. The fix I think about would allow for the lateral movement. Shut down can be especially cruel to all the bits connected.
  14. Carb heat box and flex boot problems could be solved with an improved design the would effectively lengthen the heat box - forward.. The boot could be replaced with a metal duct the over lapped the inlet of the heat box with enough clearance to provide - engine vibration + round, flex sealant. I'm going to work on one.
  15. I'm just saying the induction system for the 180 hp Mooneys is really a marginal design. The induction booty thing, the carb box, the carb heat flap & linkage. ... makes you wonder. The carb heat box usually cracks at the base of the carb heat inlet tube. The little needle bearings on the heat flap shake themselves to pieces - and the carb heat linkage geometry "was beat to fit". When I had a welder attempt to repair the crack - the alumn. had so much inter-granular (due to age) it was almost impossible to weld. Ended up cutting most of it away and forming a new piece of alumn. as a patch. The good think about this is that it created a "pocket" for the heat flap to swing up out of the way of the airflow. Also, look at MacFarlane for replacement "elastomeric" bearings to get rid of the old needle bearings on the air flap shaft. They are a great improvement - and won't be feeding needle bearings into your engine as they shake apart. Also, I think that Mooney put out a SB regarding the attachment of the heat flap to shaft. Once again - the photos are @%&?! inverted - Good luck. Joe