How hard is it to change door panel? Got mine in the mail

[ryoder]

I have files, drills, and more time than skill. I want to tackle this install soon. Maybe tomorrow.

I will just start removing screws and see how things go. I have removed door panels on cars many times and even replaced power window motors.

Also, how hard is it to pull out the passenger seat so I can get it looked at by the upholstery shop?

[carusoam]

The challenge I found...

The door is going to require some shaping. Tools + teqnique will be required.

What I found is that I have plenty of tools. Tools are much easier to acquire...

When I sold my C it went with an unmounted door panel. These were pre-MS days...

Good luck, you will probably do better than I did...

Best regards,

-a-

[MyNameIsNobody]

Co-pilot seat removal. Remove cotter-pins at back side of seat rail. Slide seat back off the rail.

[ryoder]

The challenge I found...

The door is going to require some shaping. Tools + teqnique will be required.

What I found is that I have plenty of tools. Tools are much easier to acquire...

When I sold my C it went with an unmounted door panel. These were pre-MS days...

Good luck, you will probably do better than I did...

Best regards,

-a-

That worries me.

[ryoder]

Co-pilot seat removal. Remove cotter-pins at back side of seat rail. Slide seat back off the rail.

I can do that. Thanks.

[carusoam]

Have no fear...

Try your skills, you may be good at it. You can always put the old one back, or hire the guy with the skills.

For a few AMU more, I went with the O instead.

I think the chair removal may take three steps... Cotter pin, slide front off the front of the rails, then the back off the back of the rails...

When you have the chair off, look for the small nylon wheels that are supposed to be there. Get the replacements...

Best regards,

-a-

[DonMuncy]

Remove both front and rear cotter pins. Slide seat off rails at rear. Lift slightly and slide forward until it comes off rail at front. (This is the way it works on later models; I assume they all do the same.

[ryoder]

Thanks.

Chair sounds easy.

So where exactly is the positive post that all the lighted instruments plug into? Need to light up the dg.

Btw Moneyspace rocks.

[carusoam]

From ancient memory...

Under the IP on the pilot side..?

Follow one of the wires from one of the IP bulbs or lighted instrument.

Expect to find an insulated post (?) with a few wires attached to it...

Best regards,

-a-

[Hank]

I put NuLites on my instruments, all wired through the dimmer knob on the panel.

[Shadrach]

As usual, I'm confused. Why remove the seat to replace a door panel? Or are we talking about a kick panel?

When I removed my door panel, I found it easiest to disconnect the door stay so that I could rotate the door further forward and stand in front of the wing

[Guest]

Replacing the door panel is not difficult. Just remember to cut or file in small amounts, you can't put the material back on.

Clarence

[ryoder]

As usual, I'm confused. Why remove the seat to replace a door panel? Or are we talking about a kick panel?

When I removed my door panel, I found it easiest to disconnect the door stay so that I could rotate the door further forward and stand in front of the wing

I combined the request to pull my seat to take it over to the upholstery shop into this thread.

[mike_elliott]

Replacing the door panel is not difficult. Just remember to cut or file in small amounts, you can't put the material back on.

Clarence

You can get a large enough piece of clear plastic, cut out a hole in it for the door handle in an appropriate spot, tape it to the frame, and you can use a sharpie to mark it exactly where you want to cut it. Now you have a template. Cut slightly larger and do a final trim on a reality check fit. 

[MyNameIsNobody]

Putting seat back in is more of a challenge. Getting the back on the rails is more of a forcing than finesse.

[Hank]

For me, the pilot's seat was the difficult one to remove, it was pinched against the side wall trying to get the front rollers off the track. Mine worked just like Don posted--remove the cotter pin at the back, slide back and lift off, then slide forward until it comes off the tracks. Right seat was easy, the door isn't there for it to hit.

 

Don't force it, I slid it back and forth several times until it came free. It's nice to work kneeling in the space where the right seat used to be. 

[Shadrach]

I combined the request to pull my seat to take it over to the upholstery shop into this thread.

Well duh! I need to work on my scan...totally missed the last sentence.

In the F, I actually find it easier to do the front tracks first because the seat cushion needs to be compressed a bit into the nose wheel well. I remove the cotter pins and move the seat forward of the front most stop. I then get in the back seat and push the base of the front seat forward whith my feet while applying aft pressure on the seat back until it comes out of the tracks. I then work the seat full aft until I can slide off the rear tracks.

[HRM]

I have files, drills, and more time than skill. I want to tackle this install soon. Maybe tomorrow.

I will just start removing screws and see how things go. I have removed door panels on cars many times and even replaced power window motors.

Also, how hard is it to pull out the passenger seat so I can get it looked at by the upholstery shop?

 

The most important thing you will need is patience and a long list of expletives to get you through the process. Make sure kids and delicate ladies are not in the hangar when you start.

 

A very thin, sharp awl is an essential tool when working with Mooney interior panels.

 

No matter how much you read, no matter how many pieces of advice you are given, and no matter how many times you have done it, removal/replacement of the rear seat is a process developed in hell by the Marquise de Sade and magically changes each time it is done.

 

Alternatively, R&R of the front seats is a skill that improves each time you do it and is accompanied by a warm sense of pride as you get better and better at it. It was suggested as a contest at Mooney Summits and Homecomings. The reigning champion is Don Maxwell.

 

Lastly, Plane Plastics has some videos on working with panels, worth watching.

[N201MKTurbo]

To duplicate the screw holes I took a long sheet metal screw and cut the head off and sharpened it to a point. I twisted it in to a screw hole and then held the panel in place and lightly whacked the front of the panel with a soft hammer. This leaves a small mark in the back of the plastic. Drill the hole there from the back. After you have the first hole done, put a screw in it and do the next hole. After you have two holes you can do them all and they will line up perfect.

[cliffy]

You may need to remove the flap and elevator trim indicator to make clearance for the right seat to come forward enough to come off the rails. 

[Hank]

You may need to remove the flap and elevator trim indicator to make clearance for the right seat to come forward enough to come off the rails.

Thankfully mine is not like that! What a pain!

[ryoder]

In progress. Cut one big hole. Haven't trimmed yet. It almost fits without trimming. A bit snug. I have to push down on the top to make it stay inside the window area. Will take some odd the bottom like on the original. This plastic is thicker and higher quality than the original.

[MyNameIsNobody]

Hey, noticed your seal on the door itself and the inner seal in the plane. My bird also has another seal on the plane side. Door was fitting fine...Anyway, that seal was brittle and broken. I just replace it, along with the baggage door seal. Do you notice much air/wind getting in your door?

My door fit TIGHT after putting the seal in. Might have to go with a lower profile...I left door locked (with effort) and hoping it conforms and doesn't cause door popping/hard to close issues...

Panel looks nice. I re-used my original panel, just re-painted and new armrest, along with new fabric (Airtex) on top section of door. Came out nice. You are on your way...I powder-coated inside/outside door handles when I had them off for work

[ryoder]

Much trimming and two more holes drilled. Handle placed for photo op. It looks so nice I don't want to drill into it. I wonder if I could place a few important screws and then use velcro tape?

Nobody, I think you mean I should remove the door seal altogether and put a seal on the plane right?

[ryoder]