phxcobraz

Funny seeing so many different methods. My Mooney originally didn't have a filter, added one last year. I never thought much of it, I just used what I had around when I started doing them on mine. I stuck a length of PVC into a used quart of oil and cut the bottle in half sideways. Slip that under the filter and crack it open to let oil drain down the PVC into the same bucket the oil is already draining into. A few rags needed to clean up any drips. I have a Challenger reusable oil filter so I can't quickly swap to a new one once it's off, I take time and inspect the filter element and clean with mineral spirits.

Glad replacing the pump resolved the issue. I occasionally see a similar spike in my fuel flow above 6psi when idling/taxing around, however it stays in normal range when I give it any amount of power above 1400rpm.

Let me know how the ring flush works out for you. I have the same motor and chrome cylinders. I seem to burn through about 1qt every 6hrs, have about 550hrs SMOH. Runs great otherwise.

I went the do my own research and find shops route while a buddy went the Savvy route, when we bought our separate airplanes. I think we have both had an equal amount of headaches as it relates to working with shops and getting answers/progress/etc. It has taken me 3 years but I finally feel like I found a good A&P. A buddy had Savvy do all his work and had all work or findings run through them. He found a good shop but has had just as many headaches he had to do his own legwork on. He doesn't think he will renew it next year. Many of the people he prefers to work with weren't found through Savvy. He is also far less mechanically knowledgeable and thus I do thinks Savvy was useful up front to get him on the right path.

Haha I was just thinking that. I’ll txt you. Gotta say we got timing on point at annual and it’s flying real good!

When I started it the pressure was good, but no brake function on that side. Now I have no brake and soft pedal, however the first time I did it the pedal did come back after some pumps. Wouldn’t be surprised if a MC and/or caliper rebuild would be needed.

Pulling this topic back up. My right brake became useless this past year, though good pedal pressure. Did new soft lines a year ago, got pressure, and it slowly declined. @N201MKTurbo and I found the reservoir dry a while back and topped it off. Never saw any fluid on the ground. Been trying to get it working again. We tried a few ways at annual 2 weeks ago, most recently today I did as stated in here and backbled via a pump oiler at the caliper until I had fluid coming out the reservoir. Then used a vacuum pump and pulled from the caliper. Did this a few times and always got bubbles out. Never developed any pedal pressure after this. Flaps and other brake work fine. Perhaps I need some better fittings, should the pressure in the vacuum maintain or decrease as it pulls air? Alternatively I had someone pump the brake during both push and suck phases to no luck.

Same, I had asked a couple mechanics I worked with and they all said it's normal and can't be adjusted, so I kinda took their word for it and planned to just replace it. Glad it worked out for you also!

Good news. Got out tonight and loosened the back nut about 3/4 turn and tightened the front nut down tight. It’s significantly tighter, actually had to play with it some to reduce tension as it got too tight. Need to do a runup still to see if it affects static full RPM or needs limit adjustment at the governor. Promising though. I used a 1in crowfoot wrench on a long extension/ratchet and was able to loosen/tighten the rear panel nut. Another bonus, while I was under the panel I noticed the connector to my GI106 that stopped working recently was fully disconnected and hanging. Reconnected and it’s working again. Will address the connector at annual next week.

Awesome I will await your hopeful success. I am doing annual next week, so if we can tighten the nuts down to add tension I may not need it, but I would still rather get it replaced now than at failure. But we can install it a later date.

If I am reading that correctly it is P/N 660189. I found this from McFarlane, however the -005 isn't referenced, but it is listed for propeller. https://www.mcfarlaneaviation.com/products/product/MC660189-005/ I might call McFarlane back with this and confirm it will work.

Found it. Looks super helpful. https://www.mcfarlaneaviation.com/products/product/TOOL132/

I have some angled head crescent wrenches I am hoping make getting in there easier. I bet getting the J-Bar handle out of the way would also help, if you could throw it on jacks.

Thank you this is very helpful. Your S/N is in the same range as mine. Do you have the McCauley prop and Woodward Governor, with the prop cable running down the firewall from pilot to copilot side? If so I am guessing your prop cable is the same as mine, and I could just order the same. The throttle seems to be the same on all the Mooney with the O-360(C/D/G) and doesn't have much of a bend to it, so I bet that is the same also. Most 63 M20C don't seem to have the prop option. The 8 week turnaround is what I am trying to avoid. I would like to keep flying while waiting on the new controls, vs sending them for duplication and being down for 2-3 months.

That’s what I’m expecting to do. I will give tightening a try, from my understanding the adjustment for tension was very limited.