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About Warren

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    Full Member

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  • Location
    Denver, CO
  • Reg #
  • Model
    M20K 231

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  1. @MicrokitThanks for the quick response. Apparently I didn’t do a thorough enough search on your website. I can’t wait to play with the new toy! Thanks for being so present in supporting the kit and information on MooneySpace.
  2. @Microkit Is it possible to have access to the installation manual early? I ordered mine late December and understand it will not be here until February. I am installing an autopilot upgrade and will be running wires to the wing. It would be great to have enough information to do all the prep for the system while the plane is apart and only have to do the unit installation when I receive it.
  3. Great news on the check gear addition. Just ordered one. @MicrokitAny chance of the future addition to add a sense line for the gear down sensor so that it will confirm the gear down vs. just a reminder? And, have some logic to say "Gear Down" or "Check Gear" as appropriate.
  4. Gray and Gillam are the same output. When you change an altimeter or add an encoder, you are breaking into the static system and this means to be legal, you need to update the pitot-static cert for IFR. I stand corrected. See below from Baker Avionics. Only need to do a correlation to verify no leaks -- Thanks Greg
  5. With all the upgrades going on, it is probably relatively easy to find an encoding altimeter for sale that could be swapped in and at least eliminate one potential problem. Even better if you could borrow one. Of course intermittent problems are painful and can be expensive to diagnose. If you have the luxury of low cost parts to exchange it can be the most cost effective approach to start eliminating potential problems. When they do the swap, have them check that the wiring is well secured and try to ensure nothing has the potential to chafe. I had a similar problem with an ADF s
  6. I know of 7 hangered at BJC (including me and @gsxrpilot ) plus the additional Mooney's on the ramp. That brings the count up to 12.
  7. I think it looks like the G3X also meets this requirement.
  8. Not sure if this helps, but here is the description of the gear safety system from the Maintenance Manual. A 1980 Mooney should fall in the first category and have the throttle switch adjusted to 10" MP.
  9. The gear alarm goes off when the throttle is retarded past the throttle switch (usually set about 16-17" MP) and the gear is in motion (Gear Unsafe indicator is lighted). When you say that the alarm goes off in flight. Is this normal flight or when the gear is extended in the landing pattern? 1. Check that when the gear is down it is fully down. Check the over center torque on the main gear and the spring pressure on the front gear. At least this will ensure that mechanically the gear is down and locked appropriately so that it is safe to fly and not risk a gear collapse. 2.
  10. I remember that book from my engineering classes. Probably still have a copy somewhere. The best efficiency is achieved slightly lean of peak and is represented on most graphs as bsfc (brake specific fuel consumption). This means that lean of peak, the engine is at its most efficient operating point to convert fuel to power. When we move from rich to lean operation, we do lose power as peak power assumes full combustion of the air introduced into the engine and requires some excess fuel to fully burn. When we move to lean, we have excess air and thus make less power -- if we leave the
  11. I call the local class D (KBJC) at least 10 miles out. Sometimes they are so busy it is hard to get a call in. I learned early that if I wait much longer there is a chance I will have to divert to stay out of their airspace while I establish contact. I have adopted a 10 mile minimum for all class D and it works well. Class C I usually call tower or approach 20 miles out. At less busy airports I frequently get directions to report midfield downwind or cleared to a base leg, report a 3 mile final.
  12. I looked online and could not find it. It looks like a channel lock with thin curved and padded gripping jaws. I am not sure where the local shop got it. The other tool they had was basically a round tube with rubber on the face. It was also useful on the oxygen ports - apparently this is used for the interior bezels on Cessna jets.
  13. Most of the panels can be removed with a screw driver and it just takes patience when putting it back together. The copilot side on my K has a riveted strip that overlaps the door. Bring a drill to get it out and some pop rivets to put it back in. (EDIT: Apparently this side panel can be removed without taking out the strip - see below.) If you have oxygen, the fitting on the pilots panel is a bit of a project. There is a specialty tool that makes it easier to remove the bezel around the pressure gage and the fitting around the oxygen port. Also need an allen wrench to take of the o
  14. Here is the connector. I think I ordered from Newark. I used the LR11 modules and put an inline voltage regulator to lower the voltage to approx. 10V to keep the heat down. My system is 12V but I think the regulator should work for 24V, or you could buy a specific regulator for 24V. I think the regulator was about $5.
  15. Every year this is a fight for me. Usually jacking the aircraft and taking the weight off will allow grease to flow in without too much pressure.
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