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About Warren

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  • Location
    Denver, CO
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  • Model
    M20K 231

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  1. While I haven't installed the GEA24 with traditional fuel senders, the manual does say that they are compatible. Make sure your installer configured them correctly and that the senders are working. From the G3X installation manual: Select the installed fuel quantity probe configuration: Voltage or Digital. The GEA 24 supports four fuel quantity inputs (FUEL 1 through 4), any of which can be used with a resistive, analog or digital fuel quantity sensor. Reference Table C-6 for input selection nomenclature for approved interfaces. CAUTION Resistive fuel probes must be config
  2. 10" is a great display -- but more expensive and you still have to keep one G5 as a backup. Once you get used to the tapes it is a non-issue. Even less of an issue on a larger display like the 10". I started on an Aspen with backup round gages. I eventually had to cover up the round gages to force myself to learn the tapes. Now, I hardly look at the round gages. It's a lot more money for the upgrade but you get a lot more panel and the option to add an integrated engine monitor. Needed - no. Cool - yes. Garmin is 5 months backorder on the 10" G3X so plan ahead.
  3. Based on all the discussions about how challenging it can be to get this engine to run LOP, I fully expected to go up, discover it ran rough LOP, and do a GAMI sweep to see how bad it was. I was shocked at how well it behaved. It runs well lean all the way from 60% power through 75% (at 75% the cylinders are getting a little warm - over 400). It has to be severely leaned to start to get rough. It supports LOP better than my TSIO-360-LB in a 231. I told @PilotX he was lucky and GAMI injectors wouldn't make a difference for him.
  4. Not sure if this helps. Looks like you have an MB engine. On my K (LB engine, 231 model), the numbers on the dipstick face the front of the engine and the dipstick curves forward at the bottom. I usually grab a light and rotate the dipstick 180 as I pull it out so I can see the numbers from the access panel without fully pulling out the dipstick. Then, rotate 180 as I reinsert it. The oil level also comes up if I leave it at least 24 hours after shutdown - increases .5 - 1.0 quart on dipstick. Warren
  5. +Great product that works well once installed. -Nightmare for the installers to fine tune sender geometry. It is great to write a caveat to cover all installations that just says “make sure sender is free to move from the top to the bottom.” It is also great to see this in a cutaway of a tank — much harder in real life where filler ports are one or more ribs aways from the sender ports. It is impossible to see the installed float in many applications. The real installation process is: 1. Look in the installation hole (lights, mirrors, camera,...) and try to guess what the s
  6. If you want it to look “OK,” you can try simply waxing it. This will help fill in/cover up some of the oxidized paint. It will require frequent reapplication but is by far the lowest cost option. If you really want to make it look its best, the only option is to do a polish. You have to remove all the oxidized paint and get down to good quality paint. Depending on how thick the paint is this can be a touchy process. However, you will not get a good shine until the oxidized paint is gone. The thinner it is, the more careful you have to be. Worst case you burn through in some areas a
  7. I have a 231 and I have to be very patient and fill to the limit of overflowing to get close to the rated capacity -- mine is a little more confusing with the extended range tanks. However, I believe that you need to squeeze in every ounce to get to rated volume on the K models.
  8. A simple power supply that can set to a fixed voltage is perfect for this kind of work. For a 12V system, set it to 13-13.5 V - 30A (20A would probably work reasonably well too) -- for a 24V system use 26-26.5V. This is the maintenance voltage for the battery that a smart charger would maintain for the long term after charging is complete. At this voltage, the battery will not receive significant charging and 30A should be lots to support what you need to run with the avionics while you are updating, training,... to avoid draining the battery.
  9. Power goes through the ALT FLD circuit breaker -to- master switch -to- voltage regulator.
  10. After more investigation, the power to the ALT Field breaker. So the master or the breaker will turn off the alternator field.
  11. On my 1985K Model (12V), the A+ wire in the regulator comes from the master switch. FLD goes directly to the alternator.
  12. Agree with above. The autopilot flies great without the yaw damper. It is purely a comfort/convenience option. I chose to spend the extra money and install the yaw damper. After experiencing flying with it, I am very happy with my decision. On climb, no more right rudder. It will cruise and turn coordinated at any speed. On descent, no left rudder. And, in turbulence it really smooths out the yawing. See if you can find a plane with a yaw damper and go for a ride to see how much better it is. Of course, it costs more and there are lots of other places to spend the money that
  13. Sold. I have been thinking about adding one for awhile.
  14. In general mechanical flow meters are sensitive to turbulence in the flow. In the installation manuals there are specified straight sections leading into the flow meter. The purpose of this is to stabilize the flow for consistent readings throughout the flow range. Of course, this is almost impossible in most aircraft environments and many have a 45 or flexible hose with a bend leading to the flow meter. Turbulence changes with flow rate adding a variable that the mechanical flow meter cannot accommodate by adjusting a fixed flow constant. The best you can do is to arrange the input w
  15. You can buy/install the autopilot with 2 servos (no pitch trim), 3 or 4 servos depending on which option you desire.
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