FlyingDude

Gotcha. How do you keep replenishing fresh fluid until the system from the top while doing this without introducing air bubbles? Thanks.

I don't know how you could suck out any gunk from that tiny little bleed nipple under the caliper... Wouldn't it just get stuck in there?

No Total of 6-8oz seems too much. That's about 200-240ml. The reservoir is about 2" =5cm in diameter (2.5cm in radius) and the side valve is like 2 cm below the top. 2.5^2*pi*2=40cm3 =40ml~1.5oz... Makes sense why you tap brake. Thanks.

Didn't make a mess... At the vent part. Made a huge mess at the caliper level pushed so much fluid through because the fluid on old hoses was very dark, almost black. So wanted to replenish it

It has the new style windshield... The windshield comes flush with firewall. On the inside, I can remove the top dash, but my hand doesn't reach down there. I'd need like 3 elbows or flexible bones...

Thanks guys. I tried inserting the thinnest zip tie I have in my stash to use it like a dipstick. It doesn't go past the valve. Didn't want to insert safety wire because it could scratch the insides... "slight pressure to one of the brakes" Why must you tap the brakes to bleed it out from the bottom? It oozes down anyway.

Hi guys, After successfully pushing brake fluid up from both calipers and seeing clean fluid come out of the vent, how do you remove the excess fluid from the reservoir? I have the reservoir in the cabin, above pedals and the vent valve is in engine compartment. The side valve on the reservoir which should allow me to remove the excess fluid is inaccessible. I can see it, but can't stick a wrench in there... Anyone had the same problem? Thanks...

Hi guys, My S/N is among the planes that would require drilling 4 additional holes into the brake torque plate. I didn't feel comfortable doing that (4 holes on top of 6 existing holes) so didn't proceed with the STC. Has anyone found/fabricated torque plates that would be suitable for the speed mod application (clamp on the front side)? Thanks...

I'm hoping to get there over the weekend and leave Tue after the shows or Wed before the shows. I read that campfires are prohibited, and if they weren't, I would avoid the area like the pest. Because, you know, leaky tanks and avgas fumes, and 10,000 aircraft carrying ~25gl at least could easily crater the entire area and evaporate the adjacent lake. In the same style as Anthony signs his posts: Thoughts of someone who wants to survive, not a fire marshal.

It's in the maintenance manual. Anyway, I'm not looking to remove the speaker: just trying to lose weight and potentially increase air flow into the overhead vents ...

I think it's connected to the gear horn and stall warning. You don't hear a buzz in the headsets, at least for the gear horn...

What I mentioned are the primary and secondary instruments for ifr flight ...

The turn coordinator backs up artificial horizon. DG is backed up by compass. You can always get electric DG. The Brittain tc100evs can run on electric power indefinitely. This way you could remove your vacuum pump. A turn coordinator and/or independent DG + a steam gauge altimeter would break the tie between two conflicting AHRSs ...

Thanks @EricJbut the specs on that Amazon link say it's 1.8lbs. I was wondering if one can install a much lighter speaker...

Hi guys, Responding after 3 years Anyone found a lighter alternative in these years? I'm also wondering if installing a smaller speaker could open up more room in the air scoop channel, increasing the overhead air flow... Thanks