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Oil filter options


Bryanmooney

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Sup guys,

As I respect everyone's seniority on here I will ask another rather basic question but I would rather ask a couple dumb questions than make a mistake,,,,,

 

I will be doing my first oil change on my own, I am using Aeroshell 100w oil but I dont know what filter to use.

 

The last change used PN: aa48103 which looks like a Tempest.

 

The motor is an 0-360. Question is, What filter would you guys use? Whats the best?

 

I would like to change the oil at every 50 hours but how about length of time between changes? 6 months max I think is what everyone says right?

 

Again, Thanks for the advice. I hope everyone who is lucky enough to be at sun and fun is having a blast and posts plenty of pictures!!

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Bryan,

The standard oil filter is the 48110 series available from several manufacturers. However in my shop we regularly are able to fit the somewhat longer 48111 series filter. For a few dollars more the filter gives you almost twice the filter area. Don't forget to lubericate the seal before torquing it up and safety wiring it.

Clarence

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Since our plane sat for awhile before we bought it we started changing the oil at 25 hours but are working our way up to...

 

 

50 hours/4 months.  Always change and inspect the filter at the same time.

 

 

We also do an oil analysis every time (the kit costs about $25) and add camguard (10 oz).  Even though the sump holds 8 quarts of oil we only add 6 because our plane will spit everything over 6 out the breather.  When we get down to 5 qts we add a quart and about 1.5 oz of camguard.

 

Changing the oil filter can be messy.  Two ways to deal with that are to put a channel of some sort under the filter to catch the spill and route it out to a bucket rather than let it run down the firewall on to the tire and ground; or loosen it with a wrench and then put a ziploc bag around the filter to catch the spill as you unscrew it by hand.

 

Have fun.

 

Bob

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Consider using your local mechanic to show you the ropes the first time...

We had this discussion earlier this week. You can see the number of questions that come about in this post.

Buy the experience the first time, save the money on the rest.

Best regards,

-a-

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When you change the filter, be sure to cut-open/inspect the old one.

It's a messy job, but it will tell you some important things.

i tried several techniques, setups, and what not ... to avoid the mess . None worked untill this:

let the filter on and let the oil drain overnight ! the filter will be cold and easy to spin out, and all the oil will have drained. one paper towel under to collect the last drop. done.

of course, that will work only if you can head to the airport two days in a row and have a hangar.

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i tried several techniques, setups, and what not ... to avoid the mess . None worked untill this:

let the filter on and let the oil drain overnight ! the filter will be cold and easy to spin out, and all the oil will have drained. one paper towel under to collect the last drop. done.

of course, that will work only if you can head to the airport two days in a row and have a hangar.

 

It's not removing the filter that's messy....it's cutting open the filter and dealing with all the oil soaked filter paper inside while you use a strong light, magnifying glass and magnet! 

 

I use the 1" PVC channel for the "dripless" oil change.  Works like a charm.

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In a Mooneyspace thread someone said to pull the quick drain come back in a couple days and drill a hole in top side of filter, use compressed air shot though rubber nipple and blow the oils though the filter element.....works like a charm hardly a drip!

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yea, I don't like that idea, great way to introduce contaminants into the engine. I have tried several methods including the drain that punctures the filter to allow you to drain it, on a Mooney  you can basically expect to have some oil drip when you pull the filter. I take an oil absorbent pad (PIG) and put it under the filter, after the filter is removed I wipe up the excess oil, remove the pad, then install the new filter.

 

Brian 

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yea, I don't like that idea, great way to introduce contaminants into the engine. I have tried several methods including the drain that punctures the filter to allow you to drain it, on a Mooney you can basically expect to have some oil drip when you pull the filter. I take an oil absorbent pad (PIG) and put it under the filter, after the filter is removed I wipe up the excess oil, remove the pad, then install the new filter.

Brian

I too was wondering about contaminates such as moisture in a air hose/tank but figured as much as I flew it would burn off. Even if debris got in the filter should catch it because it's on the dirty side, but the interesting thing is how would a person know if it came from the air hose of the engine upon inspecting the filter......jury still out....but less messy.

Never thought of the absorbent pad idea...way better than paper towels...

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I could not imagine having oil changes take several days to complete and still make money doing them. As Mooneymite pointed out, fashion some sort of tray or diverter placed below the filter to catch and direct oil to a bucket while you remove the filter.

In my shop all apprentices are taught that we don't spill oil on customer's engines, period.

Clarence

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I use a 2" angle aluminum extrusion that's about 3' long. I snake it in under the oil filter and hang a small can on the other end. Then I loosen up the oil filter and let it drain into the cup at then end of the extrusion. Let it set until the flow stops then you can spin the filter off with almost no spilling. Just make sure that you tip it up when if comes off.

If time permits, I like to start the draining and let it set overnight. When you come out the next day, there's almost no oil in the filter.

Make sure you lube the filter gasket, torque to spec and safety wire it. After doing a couple, it gets pretty easy.

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I assume you guys are not talking about a K model. On the Continental, I have tried just about everything, and making a mess is almost inevitable. The filter sits longitudinally and won't drain back into the engine (at least not enough to make a difference). After it is unscrewed

, it must be turned upside down, backward and sideways to maneuver it out. The only way I have found that works halfway well is to loosen it, stick a Zip Lock bag up around it, zip it shut and try to wiggle it out without puncturing the bag. Unscrewing the filter without spinning the bag around is virtually impossible. Spinning the bag involves keeping it tight enough to the filter it doesn't snag on things; another virtual impossibility.

Now if someone would create a Zip Lock bag that was almost the exact size of the filter just might work.

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For getting the filter off, I keep meaning to go any buy myself a length of 1" or similar PVC pipe, block both ends, and cut a scallop out near one end to get under the filter. At the moment I resort to making a bit of a mess, and then cleaning it up afterwards.

 

Having got the filter off, I leave it threads down in the drain funnel whilst I do the rest of the job, then turn it threads up in a vice to cut the end off it, Pull the element out, cut the caps off (mind - they seem to have sharp edges!), and then lay it on a bit of newspaper to drain until the next visit to the hangar.

 

I used to use Champion filters, but the tempest is marginally cheaper, and also has the magnetic end plate, so bought a batch of them that I'm working through. I've no idea how much effective difference there is in relation to the two, I suspect it is largely marketing guff and branding.

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As my 63 C came with screen only, I had the ECI angled adapter mounted on it. The spin filter sits about 15 degrees offset from vertical.
Most of the oil drains, and the remaining mess can easily be contained.(Need to try the absobent pad though). Best of all: My oil change interval is now 50 hours not 25.

cheers
N

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