Basic Member
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Awful_Charlie last won the day on March 27 2013

Awful_Charlie had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

257 Excellent

About Awful_Charlie

  • Rank
    Won't Leave!
  • Birthday June 16

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
  • Reg #
  • Model
    1998 M20M

Recent Profile Visitors

3,571 profile views
  1. Awful_Charlie

    M20K 252 Propeller Won't Cycle

    What governor do you have, and when was it overhauled? I had mine done early last year, and then got hit by McCauley ASB273B, so it had to come off again and be re-worked. The symptoms I had weren't the same as yours (I got occasional surging - mainly in a go-around situation), but worth checking I suggest
  2. Awful_Charlie

    Best deal on a IFD navigator right now

    With a 440 including WiFi you can still connect an iPad running the IFD100 (or more than one if you choose) to get more screen space. Sorry, can't help with where to get a 440 from
  3. Hi Ian I've been away from the G-reg for more than 10 years now, so am well out of touch with who is where, but I would expect that Yvette at BFC Bristol and James at Fast Aviation Bournemouth (both of whom I'm in occasional contact with) will be either able to help you or give a further recommendation. No experience of a Rocket airframes or Continental engines either! On the whole, I've not had major problems with parts (other than the normal aviation markup on price) - the annual cost is very driven by the number and type of accessories and their needs for ICA compliance as well as the state of the whole aircraft when you acquire it. I know someone who bought a (permit type) aircraft from that company, and solely on the basis of his experience with that particular aircraft, suggest that you get a very thorough pre-purchase inspection by someone independent from them. It might be of course that it was a particular unlucky case, but it's your money and choice Good luck! Ben
  4. Awful_Charlie

    Bravo Oil Level

    My old engine would blow anything over 8 out through the breather quite quickly so I would fill to 8 at oil change, and then top up when it was down to 7 (I measured and scribed lines for the odd numbers on the dipstick). Towards the end of it's life with me (at TBO +10%), the oil consumption got up to a quart each 5 hours or so, and I experimented with letting it go down to 6 to see it that made any difference to the oil consumption . No improvement on the consumption by letting it go down, and no detectable change in the oil temperature - the certification for the engine has a minimum safe quantity of 4 but I wasn't prepared to go down that far. Currently holding the new engine at 8 and it seems happy there, but haven't got any good figures yet for consumption, having had to cope with a series of leaks caused by the exchange (which I think I'm just about on top of now, just need to go fly it more) I'm afraid I don't get the argument for increased quantity increasing cooling - the extra oil just sits in the sump, and the sump is not a great cooling facility. The pumped oil is just a transfer medium from the hot spots (ie head and turbo) to the oil cooler - as long as the oil does not contain a significant amount of air (due to the pickup being close to the surface, think of it like a bath plughole after you pull the plug out and the water level drops - it is only the last inch or two when it sucks air in with the water, and the last inch or less when there's not enough to fill the hole). The oil cooler has a oil heated surface area of something like four square feet, with thin walls, fins to increase the air surface area even more, and sits in an area of high air volume movement. Contrast this with the sump where the increased surface area of casing by raising the oil level from 6 to 8qts will be at a guess a few tens of square inches or less of thick aluminium, without the benefit of fins or a dedicated air flow
  5. Awful_Charlie

    Winter ops in the flight levels

    I suffer from the same thing - when the OAT drops to around -25, the heater struggles to keep up, and at -35 no amount of sunlight keeps the cabin warm enough for comfort without a thick jacket. Side windows frosting up on the inside is common, and cold feet is another issue. It's even worse in the back seats Somewhere a while back I asked if anyone had a good solution - none were forthcoming Maybe easier to investigate on your side of the Atlantic with the availability of DERs etc - I was thinking it *might* be possible to mount a heatsink type device on the firewall that takes the cooling function of the oil cooler and instead passes the *heat* through to a corresponding heatsink inside the cabin (my understanding is that passing an oil flow through the firewall will be absolutely denied). Thing is, I don't know how much cooling the oil cooler is doing in the cruise at those sort of OATs. If it were possible to have the intercooler inside the cabin there's probably a load of heat there, but again I doubt this will be possible due to it largely circumventing the point of the firewall! The Acclaims use a sonic nozzle to take bleed air from between the turbo an intercooler - it might be possible to replicate on a Bravo, but I imagine the approval will be horrendous - in essence this is robbing the turbo of output, so I would expect all the PoH figures will have to be re-done, the critical altitude will be reduced (and it might not be possible at all without a different turbo) - probably just too difficult and expensive
  6. Awful_Charlie

    Mooney crash, pilot walks away

    We have a lot of similar systems fitted to airframes over here. Most of the time they are fitted for noise reduction, which in many places allows either cheaper landing fees, or less restrictions (eg some airports are "no circuits on Sundays unless noise reduction installed") Normally they're not too heavy, some are worse than others, most have an inspection requirement though. Check out Liese and Gomolzig As that looks like a camera ship, I guess they are trying to avoid upsetting those they are filming/photographing(/spying on)
  7. Awful_Charlie

    WTB TKS Ovation or Bravo

    Bravo owner/operator, pre G1000 and Moritz, late the the scene! My useful is just shy of 1000lbs, with FIKI (empty) and LRT but no air conditioning. Full tanks (130USG) means it is tight even for two skinny's, but can make an additional 35lbs by leaving the rear seats in the hangar. I have a long term plan to put the aircraft on a diet (eg MT 4 blade prop, getting rid of the vacuum) but this is an expensive alternative to a personal diet and/or the gym! As fuel tends to be expensive this side of the Atlantic, my normal cruise is in the 13USG/hr area (30" 2200RPM, LOP) for around 160-180KTAS depending on altitude, with the option to turn it up if the headwind is nasty (or even turn it down a bit for those rare tailwinds) - that means with climb fuel and a reserve you can have 8+ hour endurance (only done that once!), but if useful allows, the LRT can be handy to tanker cheap gas. I did the engine exchange last year at 2200 hours, at which time I had changed one cylinder (exhaust valve) and a previous owner had done one too. Previous owner burnt a series of turbos in quick succession, but the logs don't reveal the whole story, so I can't really make an accurate cause for any of them other than one which suffered "Ice damage" - there is an SI on the Mooney website about a mod to the intake box for that. Lycoming reman cost was around 60k, then mounts, hoses, oil cooler, governor o/h, labour etc incorporated with an annual added another 15k or so (and over here, a crazy amount of tax that doen't help any of it work any better!). Bear in mind a Lycoming exchange will include an exhaust up to and including the turbo - not all overhauls will include all of that, and some of the exhaust parts are frightening expensive. If you spend much time over 10,000' would recommend you look at your oxygen fill options - I rent a big cylinder for ~70USD/year, for which a fill is another 70USD or so - the rental does about 4 complete aircraft fills from empty, but I normally top off when the aircraft gets down to around 1000PSI. Oxysaver cannulas roughly double the POH endurance. If you don't like this and your handy FBO/maintenance org changes arms and legs for a fill you might want to consider the electronic metering devices, but the price of them will buy a shed load of gas, or a frigging hangar load of oxygen. If you find a G1000 model, check the WAAS status, if it's Moritz equipped consider what to do when one fails. As you're looking FIKI, do make sure all the panels are working (they are expensive to get, difficult to change, and spares are made to order - slowly! For maintenance, mags can be a PITA - I keep a spare pair ready to drop in, the oil changes get to be a drag, aided by putting a hose extension on the drain so it can be done without removing the lower cowl, no avionic tech particularly likes a Mooney due to the limited space behind the panel (hint - get whatever you can installed in the bay behind the baggage area) Many people seem to be eating through batteries, but I seem to get several years out of them - YMMV etc. Remember there are two of them in a long body. Years ago I changed from an Arrow as when I relocated I *needed* FIKI (my minimum level for IFR departure is 8000') - so far the aircraft capability has not been a reason to cancel any flight (have had to cancel a couple due to inch+ think ice on the destination runway, and at least one due to too much snow on my home base, but in both these cases there wasn't really *any* GA option). Alternatives other than the Bo options in my book would be PA46 for more space (and possibly pressurisation), PA32 for load carrying but less speed, and after that you are into the twin or turbine market I still believe it is one of the most capable single piston available sub 200k - and love it!
  8. Awful_Charlie

    Hot starting issues

    As my previous engine got past TBO, I was getting hot start problems, as well as occasional problem on the ground when it was *very* hot (ie 40dC plus) and with less than third or so tanks. Turned out the engine fuel pump needed an overhaul: with the new engine (including pump) it starts after a couple of blades when using the POH method
  9. Awful_Charlie

    High-low vacuum pump light

    The small tube on the right in the first pic, and at the bottom in the second - at the end of that I would expect you will find the switch pictured earlier in the thread
  10. Awful_Charlie

    brake hoses in wheel wells

    I did the flexible hoses in the wheel wells one year, and the ones on the pedal cylinders a couple of years later - the latter were still supple, but were the original (20 year old) items. The former were not so supple hence the reason to renew (we guess due to the slightly harsher environment they live in) With my A&P/IA we just took the fittings off the old hoses, and re-used them onto new hose (he had the tools - they're quite simple, and I doubt they are an outrageous price). Guess the wheel well hose removal, making of the new hoses and replacement took the pair of us between half a day and a whole day, the subsequent bleeding and removal of all the air took about the same (we bought a new larger pressure pot after getting fed up with alternative methods)
  11. Awful_Charlie

    High-low vacuum pump light

    The spare KI256 I have on the bench has the switch on the end of a hose roughly 8" long, and then about 3' of electrical wire hanging off that. The hose for the switch is a smaller diameter than the other two fittings on the back of the horizon. In the aircraft, the KI256 fitted doesn't have a switch at all! I want to add this in, but am having trouble finding the connector on the main loom into which to plug it - any hints gratefully received!
  12. Awful_Charlie

    Removal of annunciator panel

    What do you use? Nearside and offside? Just looked at the checklist from my original PPL training days in a DV20 Katana - the walkaround section has post/starboard for wings and fuselage.
  13. Awful_Charlie

    My Engine Heater

    OK, as you may have seen, it got quite a bit colder in the last week or two in Europe! I set the heater up, fuelled with a mixture of heating oil (transpires that on its own this is too viscous at low temperatures for the fuel pump to manage), Avgas (to thin it down) and road diesel (to top it off). As I'd let the batteries go flat, I had to run it with a battery charger attached (hope the batteries recover after a full charge!) The initial draw is horrible (like 7-8 amps) but it settles down to about 2 amps when it's fully fired. The temperature as shown on various thermometers in the hangar was +1dC, connecting the battery minder to the aircraft and running the JPI monitor gave 28dF for the imperial probes, and -4dC on the metric probes. As the snow was not so crunchy outside, I'm more inclined to think it was nearer +1dC than -5dC - probably about 0dC Put the two top cowl plugs in, but no cover, and left the intercooler and induction plugs out. Heater took just over two minutes to fire up to hot output, and then put the heater output up the right hand cowl flap and set it to max (nominal 5.5kW of heat) Took readings from the JPI every 20 minutes or so and plotted the resulting temperatures from the JPI. After half an hour, the right side of the cowl was warm to the touch (to be expected), but the induction and intercooler ducts were warm too, so put in those bungs. As to be expected, the EGT's rose quickest (greater external surface area to mass ratio), and the right side warmed faster than the left. The oil temperature is as measured by the JPI (ie top of the crankcase just behind the prop) as I didn't have a thermometer that I trusted not to end up in the sump if I dangled it down the dipstick hole! Chart below, left temperature scale in dF, on the right in dC. Final sample is after 75 mins of heat, max output used the whole time, fuel consumption (approx 0.75 litre) suggests it is in the right ballpark. I would guess that if the heat was removed the temperatures would even out through conduction, but that will be another test another day, when I'll also look into possibly better duct positioning/sealing/direction to improve the distribution. My conclusion: It works, but 5kW is barely enough! Maybe a cowl blanket will help a bit, but I doubt even with that it will be easy to get the whole engine from freezing to +90dF in an hour
  14. Awful_Charlie

    JPI Fuel Flow Accuracy

    Unless you have a great reference point, anything within 2% on average is within tolerance. Bear in mind these are *volume* meters and not *mass* meters. You have to manage at least: Consistent filling level The retail dispensing equipment (which when I used to be in fuel retail, the allowable tolerance was -0.5% to +1%, most retailers tried to get close to the minimum, and some were a little over zealous! Back then they were checked by weights and measures officials, at 90% or more of maximum flow - the error at low flow rates could be shocking) What gets "lost" in the hose doesn't even have to be accounted for! (ever wondered why when you turn the pump on it jumps straight away off the zero?) Relative temperature of fuel dispensed vs. fuel consumed (Density alters ~1% per 10dC) Take fuel in the afternoon from a bowser that's been sitting in the sun all day, and then go climb to FL250 and burn it - you won't get the quantity out that you put in! Conversely, get fuel in the morning from an underground tank and scud around in the warm and wonder why you can't fit in what you thought you burnt.
  15. Awful_Charlie

    Safe ice melter?

    Rolls Royce Viper with re-heat should do the job I guess: