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Awful_Charlie last won the day on March 27 2013

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About Awful_Charlie

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    1998 M20M

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  1. Indeed, but all valves are not the same. IIRC Lycoming exhaust valves use the sodium pellet to get more heat away from the head, whereas Conti use a straight solid (friction welded?) assembly
  2. My Bravo had TKS installed at delivery, but still had the electric de-ice timer and wiring installed - maybe at that time it was just always installed as standard equipment?
  3. I do indeed remember the espresso - very welcome it was too! I'm not sure if the Moritz requirement is different, my notes for the Sigma-Tek are are below. One year my A&P replaced with an 86245 by mistake and it seemed to work OK, but I went back to 86309 at the next scheduled replacement (when we found the mistake!). My JPI is piggy-backed onto the ship probe (so I just have the one TIT probe). Note that the lead stagger is always inconvenient (you connect by colour, not by length) as you need the long length which don't seem to be available in reverse stagger configuration
  4. Do you have a KA15 aural alerter? It can be wired in two ways, either through the intercom/panel or via a sonalert. I had a similar problem and it turned out to be the KA15 itself, but was a cheap fix (can't remember exactly how much, so probably less than 0.2AMU)
  5. I you do that, you'll either have to accept there is no dimming available, or change the resistors (which are behind the interior trim, i.e. a git to get to!)
  6. The small (about 1.5" dia) mirrors in each light bay are intended to put a bit of taxi light in front of each wing tip - makes it easy to figure out
  7. I'm pretty sure if you take a couple of steps to the right and look straight down the aircraft, it will look as though both legs are canted inwards, and if you move further to the right then the starboard leg will look 'wrong' and the port leg 'correct'. It will also change if you make the wings horizontal in the picture!
  8. Battery box conversion to move the batteries aft in a long body so as to be able to get rid of charlie ballast - maybe in conjunction with new battery technology too Some way to get additional heat to the interior of a Bravo and maybe other long bodies (eg a heatsink on the firewall from the oil) Glareshield dimmer and other interior light circuit 'adjustments' to go LED Lightweight air-con at a sensible price
  9. I put in a new G243 and a Concorde sealed a couple of years ago. They're both dying now, not helped by me leaving the baggage light on one night and draining them both to empty. Previously I had got many more years from the G243's, which confirms a suspicion that Gill QA or manufacturing of those has gone downhill. I'll be trying a Gill sealed later in the year by the looks of it
  10. I did the factory rebuild, principally for the new exhaust system, as this would have been enough extra on a European shop overhaul to make them more expensive, and with a slower turnaround. My original exhaust had been repaired a few times in its life, and I didn't fancy having to continually keep patching it up. I did try Ganns for a quote, but couldn't get him to answer me at all, which didn't feel great as I wondered what would happen if I had a query later - YMMV
  11. It's not even that! That moulding on one side takes the external air and pushes it through the intercooler, on the heat shield side takes the heated air from the exhaust muff to the blending valve for distribution to the defroster and heater. The heat shield is protecting the moulding from the exhaust (#5 to #3 to #1) which is only 1/2" away I'm not doubting that this has fixed your CO reading, but curious as to where the CO was coming from to get in there?
  12. You called I've only done to one return crossing, so far from an expert! (always reminded: Ex is a has been, spurt is a small drip under pressure!) Flumag has doen the trips several times, and it may well be worth giving him a nudge - he was generous enough with his time to talk me through a number of items on the phone. As I was trying to meet a deadline, and to a degree control costs, I'd heard enough about Greenland to avoid all but the essential stops there, and hence missed Kulusuk, and just used Narsarsuaq both eastbound and westbound. From what I hear though, Kulusuk is a lovely destination and *shouldn't* be a problem. Do beware of Narsarsuaq though - they totally lied to me about the last fuel uplift (telling me they had loaded and charging me for 200 litres, but delivering something nearer 120) and I subsequently raised an MOR on them - that 80 litres was fortunately "only" a substantial part of my reserve, but if I had ended up going for a swim I expect their paperwork woild have all been in order. Some things to consider to get you started: Routes (and the corresonding HF requirement), max acceptable headwinds for each planned leg, PNR, if fuel comes in bowser of by the whole barrel only, if you will need a barrel pump, airport opening days/hours (easier when westbound), survival equipment. I had an absolutely fantastic experience and would recommend it without doubt. The trip does have its risks though, and only you can make the asessment as to how acceptable those risks are to you
  13. Do you get the GS indicator on an ILS? If so, and you consistently fail to get the GS indicator on a GNSS, then you are most likely missing a wire - from memory I think it is the 'ILS Energise' signal. If it is intermittent then a bit more troubleshooting is going to be required to work out what it is that makes the difference between ok and not ok