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alextstone last won the day on May 9

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About alextstone

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  1. I'm partial to Gulf Shores KJKA but it might not be a convenient location to others
  2. Does that mean you can now fly in the carpool lane?
  3. @BaldEagle, I am in the same position as you relatively speaking. I hope the OP will share so I too can get some sense of what the timeline is.
  4. Wow, I do not know you but your post makes me wonder if you and I would get along. I hope my first impression is wrong and that moreover your assessment is as incorrect as it is in poor taste. Interestingly, this was your first post on this forum. How about an introduction before you pontificate?
  5. My engine runs smoothly LOP all the way until it dies due to fuel starvation. Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
  6. Hmm. I wonder where that came from? Why would LOP be unhealthy for a specific engine? I will say that GAMI injectors are key as well as a proper engine monitor if one wants to run LOP. Check out Mike Busch's book, "Engines". It will transform your thinking on how engines are to be run and maintained. Alex
  7. Hi Pete, I am just into my first summer with my Bravo so I am typing from a limited experience. I have found LOP to be a great hedge against higher temps. That said, I do run ROP at 29/2400 from time to time. I find that my temps stay at about 400 +- 5 CHT for the hottest cylinder and 1605 +- 5 TIT when the FF is set to 19.0 - 19.5. No cowl flaps in this scenario. I did recently install new baffle seals but I did not go through a summer with the old ones so I have no basis for comparison. LOP is a different story. the CHT's go down to <375 for the hottest cyliner, the TIT stays at or below 1600 and the fuel flow is about 14 GPH. I trade 10-15 knots of airspeed for this but in my view it's worth it.
  8. Now, I'm curious @LANCECASPER. What are you experiencing and are you concerned for some reason? Also, did you recently install a new monitor? I did and I have been trying to tweak the K factor setting to get the fuel flow just right....
  9. 31 GPH WOT, full rich and 2575 RPM for me.
  10. My new JPI 830 reads about one inch higher MP than the factory guage so I'm curious too...
  11. I'm no mechanic but my money is on a scratch.
  12. Sorry for the delay in listing the promised materials. Here's what I used from Aircraft Spruce below. In addition, I used a new high quality drill bit to drill the holes for the rivets. Most of the rivets were backed with a baffle seal washer to create enough thickness of material to properly compress the rivet, if that makes sense. I know you can buy kits and so forth but I really enjoy this sort of thing. I'll post some photos in a bit.... Other tips: 1. Buy a silver paint pen from a hobby store and number the old baffle seals in order clockwise as you remove them. This will make it easier to keep them in order when you cut them and place the new ones. 2. I used tin snips to cut the baffle seal material that I already had on hand. These are easily found at one of the hardware stores. 3. I used a portable vacuum to catch the shavings from the drill holes for the new rivets. 05-56130 BAFFLE SEAL B/U WASHER GB-A4 5.900 5.90 05-00792 SILICONE 1/8"X3"X9' BLUE W/MAT 79.950 79.95 72 #72 REVOLVING HAND PUNCH 10.850 10.85 12-00889 AVERY 360DEG SWIVEL POP RVT TL 47.500 47.50 05-56100 BAFFLE SEAL POP RIVET JM4-4 (PK OF 100) 7.850 7.80 05-00791 SILICONE 1/8"X36" W/ MAT BLUE 70.750 70.75
  13. I replaced mine. I purchased the raw materials and converted from staples to cherry rivets. An A&P/AI inspected and signed off. It too about 10 hours of labor... I used the old baffles as templates to cure the new ones... As soon as I find a photo I'll post one. If you want a materials list, let me know
  14. Whoa. Sobering. Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk