Uncooperative ADF

[0TreeLemur]

There is an KR87 ADF in our "new" J.  Not that I have anything against ADF's but this one is UGLY.  The display is all messed up.  Looks really bad.   Plus, it's lonely.  Somebody removed its RMI.  So I've decided to remove the ADF.

Well, it turns out that the hex head socket that the removal tool fits into was stripped by somebody before I came into possession.  This probably explains why it is still in the panel.  Directly above it is a KX155, with its nice tray- preventing access to the locking mechanism on the ADF.

Here's my question.   Can I remove the face place in situ and gain access to the retaining screw for removal?   Damaging this ADF is not a concern.  It's on a separate circuit breaker.

Thx.

[carusoam]

I would invite @Alan Fox for the ADF removal question…

He probably has removed a few… 

A left handed drill works really well as an easy out…

or get an actual easy out…  readily available tool for this challenge…

-a-

[0TreeLemur]

8 hours ago, carusoam said:

or get an actual easy out…  readily available tool for this challenge…

 

Thanks -a-.   The stripped head in question is almost an inch behind the faceplate with access limited through a 1/8" dia. hole in the faceplate.  It seems the faceplate must go.  Don't see how to get it off without help from Dr. Destructo. 

[MikeOH]

3 hours ago, 0TreeLemur said:

Thanks -a-.   The stripped head in question is almost an inch behind the faceplate with access limited through a 1/8" dia. hole in the faceplate.  It seems the faceplate must go.  Don't see how to get it off without help from Dr. Destructo. 

Any reason the left handed drill couldn’t enlarge the 1/8th hole on its journey to the stripped hex head?

[N201MKTurbo]

I have had luck with a small straight blade screwdriver. If you grind its width to just fit into the stripper out socket, you can usually get enough purchase to turn it.

[Alan Fox]

Just remove the face plate by removing the 4 phillips screws on the sides of the face ..

[Aerodon]

the locking lever is on the tray just above the volume knob.  If you can find a thin wedge to insert between the ADF and the tray to bulge the tray upwards, you might be able to unlock the ADF?  there is a thin lip on the locking lever, so pushing the adf in before inserting the wedge, it might help?

[0TreeLemur]

23 hours ago, Aerodon said:

the locking lever is on the tray just above the volume knob.  If you can find a thin wedge to insert between the tray and the tray to bulge the tray upwards, you might be able to unlock the ADF?  there is a thin lip on the locking lever, so pushing the adf in before inserting the wedge, it might help?

Thought about that.  Just don't want to spring the KX-155 tray.  It's perfect.   I'll try the reaper's suggestion first.  Thanks @Alan Fox!  If not that, then I'll try the left-hand drill bit idea proffered by @MikeOH.   A plan is emerging.  Thanks to everyone!

[0TreeLemur]

Final Score: Fred 1.   ADF 0.

Game highlights:

Face plate screws, LHS inaccessible without removing IDF-540 GPS, which I didn't want to do.  RHS inaccessible by proximity to CB panel.

Left hand drill, didn't bite.

Small straight screwdriver didn't bite either, but it did fracture the bezel.  Used small straight screwdriver to pry bezel out in pieces.  Grabbed rim of face plate with pliers and pulled.  Unit came out!   Turns out the locking mechanism was completely messed up.  Pretty sure it was already that way.

Anyhow, happy outcome.  Thanks all for the input!