Dukes fuel selector valve overhaul capability

[Jpravi8tor]

My boost pump and fuel selector are toast! I have sourced thanks to y’all a repar facility for the pump now on to the fuel selector one step forward two steps back aaaagggghhh!

[Jpravi8tor]

Ok I found this kit at lasar but I’m afraid I need an additional part, does anyone have the parts drawing they can share? I need to figure out what the phenolic looking piece under the screen is?  I will take a picture and post 

[Jpravi8tor]

Hasty I was in my assessment, what I thought was a phenolic insert was in fact the housing

no o ring kit gonna fix this!

‘

[Ragsf15e]

Ouch.  
might start calling salvage places.

[T. Peterson]

Forgive my ignorance, but is that the part that attaches to the actual knob/lever in the cockpit that switches between fuel tanks? If so, is it broken from the wear of just switching between fuel tanks?

Torrey

[carusoam]

Some fuel selectors have been known to bind….

They give plenty of warning…

looks like somebody powered through the warning signs…

yikes!

and… phenolic is one of those things that didn’t survive the 60s…. Chair wheels that break…and possibly some control guides…. But not in fuel systems…. So many better resins to select from today…

-a-

[Guest]

8 hours ago, Jpravi8tor said:

Hasty I was in my assessment, what I thought was a phenolic insert was in fact the housing

no o ring kit gonna fix this!

‘

That’s something that only time and money will fix.  Hopefully you’re able to find a replacement.

Clarence

[Vance Harral]

The usual cause of a broken fuel selector housing like the one shown, is over torquing the bolt that holds the fuel bowl and screen onto the bottom of the fuel selector.  Ask me how I know. 

As far as I know, the options are to find a replacement from a salvage yard, or to pay a hugely exorbitant amount of money to convert to a newer style fuel selector that is still made.  Hopefully you'll be successful with the former route.  If you are, be extremely careful torquing that bolt, so as not to break your replacement!

[Ragsf15e]

On 5/9/2022 at 2:55 PM, Vance Harral said:

The usual cause of a broken fuel selector housing like the one shown, is over torquing the bolt that holds the fuel bowl and screen onto the bottom of the fuel selector.  Ask me how I know. 

As far as I know, the options are to find a replacement from a salvage yard, or to pay a hugely exorbitant amount of money to convert to a newer style fuel selector that is still made.  Hopefully you'll be successful with the former route.  If you are, be extremely careful torquing that bolt, so as not to break your replacement!

After doing this at my last annual, I definitely agree, the torque on that is pretty light.  Also, we kept getting a leak at the bowl after torquing it until we didn’t tighten up the fuel line exiting the selector first.  Get the bowl, new washer, etc all squared, tighten to the correct torque, then tighten the fuel line.   That worked for us.  Won’t help the OP though… you need to call lowen salvage in CA.  

[Flyman2456]

Does anyone know what the part number for the o-ring on the left side of the shaft in the picture below? It's some sort of specialty o-ring.

 

 

[carusoam]

How does your screen look?

It gets a similar rubber seal that is often challenged…

Let’s invite @M20Doc to stop by… (fuel separator part question)

Best regards,

-a-

[Flyman2456]

11 minutes ago, carusoam said:

How does your screen look?

It gets a similar rubber seal that is often challenged…

Let’s invite @M20Doc to stop by… (fuel separator part question)

Best regards,

-a-

Screen looks great. Lasar has that seal in the kit but does not have this one. 

Edited November 20, 2022 by Flyman2456

[carusoam]

2 minutes ago, Flyman2456 said:

Screen looks great. Lasar has that seal in the kit but does not have this one. 

Have you spoken with Dan at Lasar?

Dan is the goto guy in their parts department…

Dan is an awesome resource to get to know…  

He is still reported to be with Lasar after the move…

Best regards,

-a-

[Flyman2456]

14 minutes ago, carusoam said:

Have you spoken with Dan at Lasar?

Dan is the goto guy in their parts department…

Dan is an awesome resource to get to know…  

He is still reported to be with Lasar after the move…

Best regards,

-a-

I tried, they have someone else answering phones and email who wasnt able to help me with that unfortunately. 

[Vance Harral]

2 hours ago, Flyman2456 said:

Does anyone know what the part number for the o-ring on the left side of the shaft in the picture below?

That is not an O-ring, at least not in the traditional sense.  It is a "Stat-o-seal", which is a sort of combined washer and O-ring assembly.  You don't buy the O-ring separately, you buy the whole Stat-o-seal assembly.  I don't have the specific part number handy, but the guys at LASAR are more likely to be able to help if you ask for it by the right name.

[carusoam]

Way to go Vance!

Thanks for supplying the MS word of the day…

Stat-o-seal….

I couldn’t remember that name in my 30s….   

Best regards,

-a-

[Flyman2456]

10 minutes ago, Vance Harral said:

That is not an O-ring, at least not in the traditional sense.  It is a "Stat-o-seal", which is a sort of combined washer and O-ring assembly.  You don't buy the O-ring separately, you buy the whole Stat-o-seal assembly.  I don't have the specific part number handy, but the guys at LASAR are more likely to be able to help if you ask for it by the right name.

Yes the stat o seal is pictured but I'm looking for the o ring shown on the shaft assembly with the spring. 

[N201MKTurbo]

Can you take it off so we can see what it looks like? 

[Guest]

8 hours ago, Flyman2456 said:

Does anyone know what the part number for the o-ring on the left side of the shaft in the picture below? It's some sort of specialty o-ring.

 

 

You’ll need to measure the shaft diameter, and OD of the O ring to determine the O size.  The basic O ring is likely a MS29513-XXX series.  I’m guessing an 008 size

[Flyman2456]

3 hours ago, M20Doc said:

You’ll need to measure the shaft diameter, and OD of the O ring to determine the O size.  The basic O ring is likely a MS29513-XXX series.  I’m guessing an 008 size

I'll send if I can get a picture of it off but it's not your typical o-ring. The OD is a lot wider than the shaft and the center of the ring is solid except a small hole for the shaft. It looks something like this

 

Edited November 20, 2022 by Flyman2456

[Shadrach]

15 hours ago, Vance Harral said:

That is not an O-ring, at least not in the traditional sense.  It is a "Stat-o-seal", which is a sort of combined washer and O-ring assembly.  You don't buy the O-ring separately, you buy the whole Stat-o-seal assembly.  I don't have the specific part number handy, but the guys at LASAR are more likely to be able to help if you ask for it by the right name.

Stat-O-seal makes two types. One has the rubber molded to the washer. The other is a “press and fit” o-ring and washer. Both can deteriorate and leave you with what looks like a #10 flat washer with an oversized ID.  

correct Mooney P/N is 600-0101-10