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bhtitle

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  • Model
    1967 M20F
  • Base
    KPVG Hampton Roads Exec, Virginia

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  1. My 67F did not have a knob or anything, and I never found a valve behind the panel. So I had my mechanic install an alternate static switch on the panel, similar to this one: https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/togglevalve11-12168.php?clickkey=35326 Tried alternate static in cruising flight- I’d say it causes a 1 needle width bump in the VSI, which returns immediately to zero. No noticeable effect on the other instruments.
  2. Selling the JPI EDM-830 that I purchased for my '62 M20C but never had installed before the aircraft died due to wing corrosion. The kit was purchased in the spring of 2020, I've had it stored in its box indoors since then. Includes carb temp probe, which was ~$200 extra at time of purchase. Asking $2200 for the entire kit. Will include shipping to the lower 48 via priority mail. See photo of invoice (yellow sheet) for which parts are included. Thanks for looking! Edit: item has been sold.
  3. For finding oil leaks - I've had excellent luck with a simple UV dye kit. Wash engine with mineral spirits. Then look with UV flashlight in dark hangar for "baseline" since some parts glowed green anyways, then add dye to oil and run engine for a few minutes uncowled, then put back in dark hangar and search for leak with flashlight. My leaking prop governor was super obvious as were a few other smaller leaks. UV dye liquid (amazon) Flashlight and glasses (amazon)
  4. I got super lucky - mine is somehow not a crack but apparently a casting blemish. Sure looked bad before cleaning it up and using dye penetrant but it clearly doesn't go below the surface. Is this evidence of a prior repair? It's in exactly the same spot as everyone above.
  5. Good evening, 1967 F - I'm thinking of replacing my engine baffles before summer, in the hopes of getting a few more degrees worth of cooling. When my upper cowl is installed, my aft baffle lays forward and sits flush with the "doubler" part of the upper cowl, but seems to leave gaps in the "channels" between the upper cowl doublers and surface. Photo attached where you can see a horizontal shiny metal stripe where the aft baffle lays but doesn't wear on the higher up part. At least when static there are visible gaps there since the baffle material is too rigid to conform neatly. Do your baffles or cowl have any feature to help fill that gap? My mechanic suggested either cutting an extension of the baffle material to fit the profile at those areas, or layering a second longer section of baffle behind the main baffle in those areas. Or do you think the dynamic pressure in flight is strong enough to hold them all the way up and create a seal as-is? Photos of anyone else's similar cowl+baffles with a report of typical summertime CHTs in climb+cruise would be a helpful reference, along with any ideas. Thanks!
  6. Thank you all for the detailed info and the linked thread. Fuel flow is steady, or at least doesn't wander more than +/- 0.2 gal/hr, which is how it has always been since JPI installation. I'll search for air leaks first, clean the fuel servo screen and gascolator (the stamp on mine says 25 in-lbs), and will look carefully when I fly next whether the behavior is sensitive to altitude. Also fuel selector o-rings - mine don't leak externally but I would be surprised if those or the fuel bowl bolt washer have been changed in years. Much appreciated!
  7. Good morning, Over the past few flights my 1967 F with JPI EDM-900 engine display has increasing fluctuations in fuel pressure indication. Used to be steady at 23-24 almost all the time. Now in cruising flight with boost pump off, 3000-7000 ft MSL, the pressure wanders down to 21, and up to 26 psi. Every 5 seconds or so it dips to 21 and returns up to 24-26. With the boost pump on it's steadier, though higher at about 27 psi. One time after refueling a couple weeks ago, I had a red X on fuel press after hot start. Recycled master and it showed normal. Only saw that once. Often following shutdown the skinny vent tube (fuel pump and intake manifold) under the left cowl makes a few drips of what looks like some combination of fuel and oil but not enough to make a puddle, just a few drips. I've unplugged and re-plugged in the JPI sensor with no effect. JPI system was installed May/June of 2021 and flown ~60 hours since then. Should I be suspicious of my sensor or should I suspect something wrong with my engine driven pump? Debris in the system? Do you all have any suggestions or seen what a failing engine driven pump looks like? Not sure I have access to a spare sensor without buying one for $$$ just to isolate that variable. Engine runs and sounds normal the whole time. This sounds like something that could cause loss of engine power if the pump fails. Thanks!
  8. Ok sounds good, thanks for the info, I'll check those places for any takers.
  9. Hope this is still useful - I've got the cluster from my '67F that was working when removed for JPI-900 upgrade this June.
  10. Good Evening, Been browsing the forums for a while, first time posting. My '62C has been going strong since I bought it five years ago, but my mechanic and I just discovered an approximately 1.5 inch section of exfoliating corrosion on the right wing aft spar, inside the wheel well. Photo attached, looking outboard and aft from inside the right wheel well. It's also developing corrosion in the left fuel tank between the root rib and lower skin- one of the rivet heads on the lower surface under the rib popped off, discovered on preflight which led to me crawling over the plane and finding the spar corrosion. I should have caught the spar corrosion on an earlier preflight, no idea how long I was flying with it. Plane was hangared when I bought it and first two years of ownership, but moving for work it's been tied down in Oxnard, CA and St. Mary's Co, MD since 2017, so being outside in coastal locations the past three years definitely sped up the damage. I can't imagine this is something repairable short of replacing the left rib and right aft spar cap, which my mechanic probably doesn't want to take on. My engine is strong but getting up there with 1470 SMOH, and panel is basic VFR with a garmin 345 ADS-B transponder, so unfortunately with a $20K+ or worse repair, repairing the damage or replacing the wing doesn't look to make economic sense on a plane hardly worth more than that. I hate to be the last owner in 58 years, but can any of you recommend a salvage company in the mid-atlantic that may be interested in buying it? I'm based at St. Mary's Co, MD (2W6). My mechanic pointed out that airplanes are worth more as parts than as airplanes, but I don't have a great location to store the airframe should I part it out. How does one determine if it's safe to ferry a plane with this kind of damage? Or is there another idea you all recommend before selling it to salvage? Mostly just looking for advice or ideas at this point. This is my first plane, and definitely won't be my last- if I sell this plane I'll be searching for a Mooney in better shape ASAP! Thanks for your input, Ben
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