Replacement Visor Lens - DIY

[Bryan]

Wanted to share a little build on a part that I did on my M20K.  About a week or two ago, while manipulating the pilot side visor, the lens broke.  I looked around and found the lenses at LASAR for about $175 - $250 for a single lens.  Not knowing the exact part number I decided to try to make my own.  I think the stock ones are made of acrylic as they tend to fracture pretty easy after playing with the stock broken lens.

I decided to purchase some stock Lexan, Dark Tint from eBay.  Using a grease pencil, I outlined the broken piece taped back together.  From there, I used a multi-tool with a Half-Moon Blade blade to slowly etch the shape close to the final shape and used a small belt sander to finalize the shape.  I then used a step drill bit to make holes for the bracket and done!  I have a nice lens like new for under $30.

 

[Raptor05121]

Wow!!! I wish they would restart production of these. I'd kill for a set.

[jaylw314]

Nice!  I've never worked with Lexan before, how different is it to drill and cut than acrylic?

[DonMuncy]

Take a look at my albums for the ones my hangar elf built. Mine are very much like LASAR's (the ones Bryan has), except mine are aluminum rather than black.  I have a template for the shade, and can turn them out fairly easily. (However, after ones pays shipping, the would be about the same price as his.)

[Raptor05121]

How did you make the metal brackets, Don?

[rbridges]

1 hour ago, Raptor05121 said:

Wow!!! I wish they would restart production of these. I'd kill for a set.

I don't know if these will work in yours.  IIRC, the Rosen type visors only work in '66(?) or newer planes.  Something about the mounting point.  I've seen people make some that were mounted to the center bar, but they obviously don't swing to the side windows.  

[Marauder]

How did you make the metal brackets, Don?

Some elves are really good at this.




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[Yetti]

top is Mooney factory.   Bottom is owner produced

[Bryan]

I used a fine-tooth table saw blade to cut down the full-length stock and then the fine tooth multi-tool to do the curves.  I sprayed the Lexan with soapy water to help it keep from gumming up on the blade. 

I find Lexan (Polycarbonate) pretty easy to work with, it tends to melt right around the edges of the cutting blade but if you go slowly it works.  The water helps to cool and lubricate the cuts with the multi-tool.  There is a lot of dust like plastic that goes everywhere so use eye protection. 

There are special drill bits to cut clean holes but I found a step blade works pretty well.  I think I might try to polish up the edges with a small torch (flame).  I have read you can polish out the opaqueness by slightly melting the edges.  Before I try that, I want a test piece.  I am happy with the outcome, and price!

 

EDIT: I just had my two plastics mixed up.  You cannot flame-polish Lexan (Polycarbonate) like you can Acrylic.  Looks like I will have to use a polishing wheel if I want clear edges.  I think I am happy enough with the thin material.

[SantosDumont]

Nice!  I need to make the same exact part!  Although I keep telling myself I'm going to draw it in Solidworks and then get my buddy to cut it on his cutting machine... must be why that never gets done.

[Yetti]

I did rough cutting with a table saw with a new carbide blade. Then shaping with a sanding station.   Some blue painters tape to keep the protective film on.  You can polish the edges with progressive grit sandpaper.

[DonMuncy]

2 hours ago, Raptor05121 said:

How did you make the metal brackets, Don?

I hate to admit it, but I contracted with a Chinese outfit to make the articulating joints. I have a mill, but it is not CNC, and it would have been a LOT of work to do them. The other parts, my hangar elf did.

 

[DonMuncy]

1 hour ago, SantosDumont said:

Nice!  I need to make the same exact part!  Although I keep telling myself I'm going to draw it in Solidworks and then get my buddy to cut it on his cutting machine... must be why that never gets done.

If I am not mistaken, I have a template for those shades too. (I made a set for someone.) If you want me to turn you out a set, PM me.

[carusoam]

Acrylic is bad because it can fracture and have sharp edges near your head and face... and is sensitive to oxidation and hand oils over time... a few years...

Go polycarbonate if you have the choice... GE plastics spent billions on trying to improve over ordinary Acrylic...

GE Plastics extruded lexan sheet...

vs.

Polycast cast acrylic sheet....

You guys have well trained hangar elves! 

Best regards,

-a-