Basic Member
  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

197 Excellent

About jaylw314

  • Rank
    Won't Leave!

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
  • Reg #
  • Model
  1. Fuel system trouble

    Would it not make more sense to contact Lycoming for warranty work since their repair work is out of limits?
  2. Heck, I'd say just make the offer contingent on the PPI, and that you can walk away for ANY reason within a certain number of days. Just plan to renegotiate the price after the PPI. There's little sense trying to prearrange who pays for what squawks, since you're going to be arguing about what's an airworthiness item and what's not anyway. If you can't come to terms, you walk before the time limit without penalty. Pretty similar to buying a house. The seller should not squabble since he knows you've invested money in the PPI. When I bought from All-American, I put in the offer I had 3 business days after the PPI to walk out, and they didn't bat an eye. There was plenty of time after I got the PPI report to renegotiate some minor squawks, and that was that. For the OP, the purpose of the PPI needs to be clear ahead of time. People seem to have asked for any one of the following for PPI's: An independent actual annual inspection, with disassembly of necessary parts of the airframe and engine An unofficial independent inspection that is to the level of an annual An unofficial inspection that does not involve disassembly of parts other than parts intended to be removed (inspection panels, cowling, etc) An unofficial inspection that does not involve any disassembly of any type. Personally, I think #3 is the appropriate one, but others disagree. #3 would involve you paying a flat fee for an unofficial inspection. Since it is not an actual inspection, the PPI mechanic cannot "ground" the aircraft or require repairs to be made. Likewise, since disassembly is minimal, the risk of damage to the aircraft is minimal. Both of these would be reasonable concerns of the seller if he thought you were asking for #1 or #2. The comment from the one seller to "bring your checkbook" might imply he thinks that's what you are looking for. TL;DR--decide what kind of PPI you actually want, and make sure the sellers understand that. It might keep you from missing a possible deal (or they just still might be completely unreasonable). Incidentally, both PPI's I did at MSC's were about $900-950 (at CrownAir and Dugosh).
  3. What am I looking for?
  4. Dead Battery...DOH!

    I discovered the previous owner had disconnected the cabin lights entirely. Really the only thing they missed on the pre-purchase inspection that I've found. You could, of course, semi-illegally replace the cabin light bulbs with LED's. I forget the bulb size, but they are common in automotive lighting. Then your battery would survive longer with the lights left on...
  5. Eww. Was that visible in the heater valve in front of the firewall? I wonder if some previous owner figured they'd never use the cabin heater and stuffed the heater box with insulation.
  6. Icing encounter

    Thanks for the comments! In retrospect, I still have this safety-blanket sense of "if I'm IFR, someone's watching me in case I have an emergency." Of course, staying IFR almost got me into an emergency, and I could keep VFR flight following anyway, but it's all psychological. I had plenty of room and space to go under or around if I made the decision earlier.
  7. Dead Battery...DOH!

    I don't think it's worth adjusting. If you have your regulator at the lower summer voltage, it will still charge the battery to 90% or more during the winter during flight. Then just use a battery charger to get it to 100% once every month or two (or leave it on a float charger all year). Having an AGM battery at 90% isn't going to cause problems in the short term, and you'd much rather ensure they don't get overcharged during a long flight. And while starting the plane might take a lot of current, the total charge used is very small, since you only crank for 5-10 seconds.
  8. In terms of financing, the bank I used suggested they would not be concerned financing an aircraft with damage history in the past 7 years, and if it was less they would still review it.
  9. What do you think of this crazy J??

    "your city may name a day in your honor with this one in your hangar" Sheesh I'd agree on all, although I don't think terribly overpriced.
  10. Experimental Avionics in Certified Aircraft

    Ah. I was not familiar with the Stratus ESGi, I assumed it was for experimental aircraft only based on the OP's post. I see it's actually an approved transponder with an AML and STC for some aircraft, in which case you are very correct, it can be done and the FAA has made a point of facilitating it. Never mind me!
  11. I'm kind of annoyed that they focused much of the walkaround and tour on the aftermarket avionics and instruments. I'd wager the vast majority of M20J's out there do not have an all-glass cockpit or Aspens installed, so somebody interested in buying an M20J really doesn't get a representative look at what they'd be getting into. Of course, I suppose that makes sense if the video makers are in the business of moving premium aircraft rather than average aircraft.
  12. Uber’s Pipedream

    They might solve the car-hitting-pedestrian problem, but what will they do to solve the subsequent carjacking/robbery-by-standing-in-front-of-car-to-keep-it-from-moving problem, or the vandalize-by-spray-painting-the-hood-while-standing-in-front-of-car-to-keep-it-from-moving problem? So far, the one thing technology has not been able to solve so far is the fact that there is never a shortage of criminals and assholes in the world.
  13. Experimental Avionics in Certified Aircraft

    AFAIK, possible? Yes. Common? No
  14. Fuel system trouble

    That would not apply to people who get a normal overhaul or convert to the IO-360A3B6, right? Since they're all under the original M20 TCDS, they would still go by the POH limits?
  15. Happy Birthday to me:)

    Hey, sorry I missed you, hope your trip back from annual was safe! A trick my instructor showed me for oil changes was taking a used plastic shopping bag (with no holes in it!), and pulling one of the edges of it under the lip of the oil filter pad. Then you tape the handles of the bag somewhere above it on the engine mount, and you have something to hold all the oil that comes spilling out. A 1" ratcheting closed end wrench makes removing the oil filter MUCH easier in the tight space, just get a cheap one at Harbor Freight or on Amazon. Then when you're done, you can either lift out the filter, or just drop the filter into the oil-filled bag and lift the whole thing out, being careful not to tear it on anything as you pull it up. After a bit of practice, it keeps your nose gear nice and clean. I looked at some of the oil-filter tools that punch a hole in the side and allow it to drain, but I'm not sure there's room to use them behind an IO-360... Congratulations on the new family member, and try to keep up on sleep!