Exhaust Stack Nut (E, IO-360)

[HRM]

Can anybody tell me how they R&R exhaust stacks on an E? Particularly the inner nut? Do you just put an open-end wrench on it vertically and turn the wrench with pliers?

The outer nut can be accessed by an open-end fairly easily, but both it and the inner will not accommodate a socket because of the clearance with the pipe. I ordered 'thin-wall' sockets off Amazon, but no joy. 

[KSMooniac]

I use a 1/4" drive swivel socket on a long extension.

Sent from my LG-US996 using Tapatalk

[Bob_Belville]

I ground thin wall socket down thinner. 

[MB65E]

Ground down 12pt wobble socket. It’s a challenge depending how much material is welded on the stack for repairs. 

-Matt

[MARZ]

28 minutes ago, KSMooniac said:

I use a 1/4" drive swivel socket on a long extension.

Sent from my LG-US996 using Tapatalk
 

+1  And when reinstalling - snug the inside nuts first - then the outside - and read long extension to mean past the bottom curve of the exhaust Pipe

[N201MKTurbo]

I use a 1/4 drive socket on the inside nut. It will bias the pipe enough that I can't get the socket on the outside one but it is easy to get to with am open end or a crow's foot.

[Guest]

A Snap On 1/4” drive 1/2” socket on a long extension works every time.

Clarence

[RLCarter]

This what worked for me, but in a 12 point

 

[Andy95W]

1/4" drive 12-point socket, plus a 12" and 3" extension.

And it has to be a 12-point socket.  The 6-point has too much wall thickness, believe it or not.

[HRM]

19 hours ago, Andy95W said:

1/4" drive 12-point socket, plus a 12" and 3" extension.

And it has to be a 12-point socket.  The 6-point has too much wall thickness, believe it or not.

Well, here is where I am with this. After reading the posts, I thought @M20Doc (Clarence) matter-of-fact suggestion of a Snap-On 12 pt, 1/2", 1/4" drive socket sounded best, so I ordered one off of eBay. 

I really do not want to grind anything down and I had looked at Snap-On sockets before at their storefront site and went into CB shock and had to run down to HF and browse just to calm down. A video by the PowerFlow exhaust guys showed a tech using a very long extension to just reach up in and tighten away. Given the cost of those systems I would guess all his tools are Snap-On  Of course, the PF headers may have extra clearance.

So, the 12 pt vs 6 pt makes sense to me, we'll see. I paid $11.50 with shipping for the socket and if it just slips right up there I'll do a MasterCard commercial. 

Harley

[Jim Peace]

I write checks.  Works every time.

[carusoam]

Watch the CEO of Snap-On on CNBC... their tools stand above the rest for quality, design, and purpose... or listen to Clarence...quality and purpose, by design...  

I got my first snap-on tool by working with my mechanic on the annual for my M20C... bought a pair of pliers that could grab the head of a screw that had been previously stripped.... that’s a pretty precise pair of pliers...

I never took my own exhaust off before... but, is there much difference in R&R of the intake tubes?  Aside from the added heat and oxidation issues...

Looks like the weld material can be an individual challenge...

Best regards,

-a-

[Guest]

5 hours ago, HRM said:

Well, here is where I am with this. After reading the posts, I thought @M20Doc (Clarence) matter-of-fact suggestion of a Snap-On 12 pt, 1/2", 1/4" drive socket sounded best, so I ordered one off of eBay. 

I really do not want to grind anything down and I had looked at Snap-On sockets before at their storefront site and went into CB shock and had to run down to HF and browse just to calm down. A video by the PowerFlow exhaust guys showed a tech using a very long extension to just reach up in and tighten away. Given the cost of those systems I would guess all his tools are Snap-On  Of course, the PF headers may have extra clearance.

So, the 12 pt vs 6 pt makes sense to me, we'll see. I paid $11.50 with shipping for the socket and if it just slips right up there I'll do a MasterCard commercial. 

Harley

If you have to grind it down, you’re best to start with a Snap On as much as it hurts.  They start off with better material so even thinned out they still work better.

I have several $100 Snap On tools which I have ground down, life time  warranty is now gone.

Clarence

[HRM]

3 hours ago, M20Doc said:

If you have to grind it down, you’re best to start with a Snap On as much as it hurts.  They start off with better material so even thinned out they still work better.

I have several $100 Snap On tools which I have ground down, life time  warranty is now gone.

 Clarence

Well, a Snap-On socket from eBay is probably not covered under their warranty and the .011 AMU that I paid is not going to cause me any heartburn if I do need to grind it down.

Hope springs eternal, but just in case, I have a grinding wheel 

Harley

 

[Yetti]

The grumpy IA and the other A&P both have ground down sockets.   the other place to use them is on the Electric gear actuator pulling it out.  But I think that one is 7/16

[Yetti]

Is it rumored that the Husky brand of wrenchs and sockets are built by snap-on.   Their fit and finish makes if believable.

 

[HRM]

So happy---I really need to get a grip. Almost orgasmic when that socket just slipped up in there (see 1st photo).

Summary: heed grumpy IAs, 12 pts are thinner walled than 6 pts, 1/4" drive are thinner than 3/8" drive from my limited data set. Apparently 0.6 mm made the difference.

Oh yeah, let the cockpit humor commence.

[DonMuncy]

8 minutes ago, HRM said:

So happy---I really need to get a grip. Almost orgasmic when that socket just slipped up in there (see 1st photo).

Summary: heed grumpy IAs, 12 pts are thinner walled than 6 pts, 1/4" drive are thinner than 3/8" drive from my limited data set. Apparently 0.6 mm made the difference.

 

Oh yeah, let the cockpit humor commence.

You know these guys, don't you.