One piece back window M20F

[Marauder]

No STC required, we did it under a log book notation.  There used to be a thread that had a letter from Mooney stating that there was no difference in structural strength. Your mechanic may prefer a 337.  I recommend not using the J analogy, but the 1976 F as the basis for comparison.  That will allow you to use the same model.  We ordered parts directly from Mooney.

Tim - were the parts you ordered the part numbers from above? Also, what was the ballpark for the parts?


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[TTaylor]

8 minutes ago, Marauder said:

 

Tim - were the parts you ordered the part numbers from above? Also, what was the ballpark for the parts?
 

Chris - Those are the parts we used, from the 1976 F parts list.  It was about $250 for both. 

 

From my invoice from Frank Crawford (1/10/2013)

Item number Quantity Price each Disc. pct. Amount
340285-007 FORMER-REAR WINDOW

PER MOONEY DWG 340285
REV AL-7
1.00 119.81 $119.81
340285-008 FORMER-REAR WINDOW

PER MOONEY DWG 340285
REV AL-7
1.00 117.85 $117.85
Misc charges
Code Transaction text Qty Amount
SHIPFE SHIPPING FEE 1.00 11.02

[carusoam]

Mere baubles for the old gal...

-a-

[Marauder]

5 hours ago, TTaylor said:

Chris - Those are the parts we used, from the 1976 F parts list.  It was about $250 for both. 

 

From my invoice from Frank Crawford (1/10/2013)

Item number Quantity Price each Disc. pct. Amount
340285-007 FORMER-REAR WINDOW

PER MOONEY DWG 340285
REV AL-7
1.00 119.81 $119.81
340285-008 FORMER-REAR WINDOW

PER MOONEY DWG 340285
REV AL-7
1.00 117.85 $117.85
Misc charges
Code Transaction text Qty Amount
SHIPFE SHIPPING FEE 1.00 11.02

Thanks Tim. It's on my list before I do the glass and before the paint. Did you go with Great Lakes?

[TTaylor]

1 hour ago, Marauder said:

Thanks Tim. It's on my list before I do the glass and before the paint. Did you go with Great Lakes?

We used GLP, order the rear windows for the 76 F, not a newer J 's.  They are trimmed slightly different because the J does not use screws to hold the windows like the F.  Don't get the windows until a short time before you are ready to do the project. "Green" as in very new windows, are less brittle and can be drilled and trimmed with much less chance of cracking.

[carusoam]

Hmmmm....

New acrylic is less brittle than older acrylic....

Wondering what causes that...

Polycast reaction molds the acrylic monomer between thick glass sheets. The hot liquid monomer is poured in between the plates of glass.... the mix of monomer and additives begins the reaction and the molecular weight increases... the molds are placed into giant ovens to finish the reaction and allow the internal stresses to be relieved.... the heated stress relieving process is called annealing.  Long chain Molecules will physically relax...

After a day or so in the ovens the glass molds are allowed to cool and the glass is removed from the acrylic sheet...  the molded acrylic sheet is then taken to a machine to add protective layers of paper and a saw set-up trims it square...

I would guess based on TT’s statement above... post annealing, the acrylic is going to be in the freshest state possible... Some crystalization must be occurring over time after that....

A long way to say...

+1 on finding the manufacturing date on the paper protective layer.... select the newer date if able...

The finished sheets would sit in a warehouse for a long time.... before a customer May receive them... the factory was set up to mold families of thicknesses for a week, then colors from lightest to darkest.... it may take months to mold our favorite dimensions again... in our favorite colors.... light gray, dark gray, and green...

Funny semi-inaccurate memories of a PP only, not a plexiglas window maker... I did see some sheets that said F14 on them.... much thicker stock than what we use...

MS did have a guy that knew acrylic windows and forming sheet really well... unfortunately @Canopyman is only with us in spirit now...

Sounds like a good question for the window suppliers.  

Best regards,

-a-

[Marauder]

Hmmmm....
New acrylic is less brittle than older acrylic....
Wondering what causes that.

Best regards,
-a-

The same phenomenon that is causing old Marauder to be more brittle than young Marauder...



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[Bob_Belville]

If you are on a August/September schedule the acrylic should stay warm. We did mine in Dec so I stored the panes with a ceramic heater keeping them toasty. Lots of holes to drill for a '66E, J's are different. Your F... probably gets holes all around side windows.

[Marauder]

If you are on a August/September schedule the acrylic should stay warm. We did mine in Dec so I stored the panes with a ceramic heater keeping them toasty. Lots of holes to drill for a '66E, J's are different. Your F... probably gets holes all around side windows.

Yes Bob, I am a holy man. Even my 201 windshield is holy. Is your windshield screwed or riveted in? Send some close up photos of what it looks like after paint?






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[Bob_Belville]

6 hours ago, Marauder said:

 

Yes Bob, I am a holy man. Even my 201 windshield is holy. Is your windshield screwed or riveted in? Send some close up photos of what it looks like after paint?






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If your windshield is like mine, a 201 windshield, the screws across the bottom do not go through the plexi. The aluminum across the front comes off, the plexi is inserted into a slot across the top and down the sides and the lower strip is reinstalled. That sentence simplifies quite a few hours of work removing the plexi - I finally took a ball peen hammer to mine - cleaning all the various old sealants and fitting/trimming/fitting/trimming/fitting the windshield. The proper sealant is a 2 part polymer.\

I don't find the close up pic you'd like. Here's  a couple of shots... pretty high res so you should be able to zoom in...

[Marauder]

3 hours ago, Bob_Belville said:

If your windshield is like mine, a 201 windshield, the screws across the bottom do not go through the plexi. The aluminum across the front comes off, the plexi is inserted into a slot across the top and down the sides and the lower strip is reinstalled. That sentence simplifies quite a few hours of work removing the plexi - I finally took a ball peen hammer to mine - cleaning all the various old sealants and fitting/trimming/fitting/trimming/fitting the windshield. The proper sealant is a 2 part polymer.\

I don't find the close up pic you'd like. Here's  a couple of shots... pretty high res so you should be able to zoom in...

What is different on mine is there are screws all the way around the windshield. No rivets at all. My side windows as well are screwed in.