600115-005 intake duct

[DCarlton]

3 hours ago, Ragsf15e said:

Yep, you need one then.  You’re pulling unfiltered air right into the fuel servo and through into the engine.  There may be some temporary repairs that could work depending on your mechanics comfort level.  The lead time for the new one is at least 35 weeks, so you’ll want to call Lasar asap.

I have a hole in mine and I don’t think there’s any repair that I’m comfortable with.  I’ve had three inflight emergencies (one declared) in 30 years and don’t want another one.  I think I’d rather suck unfiltered air.  Suggestions welcome.  New part on order.  

[Derrickearly]

3 hours ago, Ragsf15e said:

Yep, you need one then.  You’re pulling unfiltered air right into the fuel servo and through into the engine.  There may be some temporary repairs that could work depending on your mechanics comfort level.  The lead time for the new one is at least 35 weeks, so you’ll want to call Lasar asap.

I’m thinking to use a tire patch bonded with RTV. 

[N201MKTurbo]

4 hours ago, Derrickearly said:

I’m thinking to use a tire patch bonded with RTV. 

Take it off and clean it real good by scrubbing it with a tooth brush and comet cleanser until it rinses off clean, inside and out. Then get some 1oz fiberglass cloth and cut it into patches a little bigger than the hole. Apply a thin coat of black RTV around the hole, on the outside and stick on a piece of fiberglass. Then apply a little RTV over the patch and work it into the cloth till it is saturated. Massage it until it fits the shape of the boot folds and doesn’t protrude into the boot. Now apply another piece of fiberglass and cover with RTV. Let it cure overnight. If there are any fringes of fiberglass, trim them with a surgical scissors. Then add another thin layer of RTV to make it look good.

All RTV work should be done with rubber gloves on. The RTV layers should be as thin as possible while saturating the fiberglass. The RTV will only bond to the boot if the boot is clean and dry.

[Derrickearly]

21 minutes ago, N201MKTurbo said:

Take it off and clean it real good by scrubbing it with a tooth brush and comet cleanser until it rinses off clean, inside and out. Then get some 1oz fiberglass cloth and cut it into patches a little bigger than the hole. Apply a thin coat of black RTV around the hole, on the outside and stick on a piece of fiberglass. Then apply a little RTV over the patch and work it into the cloth till it is saturated. Massage it until it fits the shape of the boot folds and doesn’t protrude into the boot. Now apply another piece of fiberglass and cover with RTV. Let it cure overnight. If there are any fringes of fiberglass, trim them with a surgical scissors. Then add another thin layer of RTV to make it look good.

All RTV work should be done with rubber gloves on. The RTV layers should be as thin as possible while saturating the fiberglass. The RTV will only bond to the boot if the boot is clean and dry.

Thank you!

[201guy]

Carl at Houston Tank Specialists has a few.

281-799-8487

[carusoam]

MS is full up with incredible people…

We have GB around here… his main business is molding rubber parts for under hood applications…  lots of high end car parts, and some fancy Mooney baffle seals…

 

When it comes to polymer parts… OPP gets a little more challenging than metal parts… chemistry, X-linking, color, and stability additives….

There are a couple of successful OPP projects around here… engine controls and up and down gear lock blocks…

 

we have one OPP project that has been in limbo forever… rubber donuts.  More for the Mite, than other Mooneys…

 

Also remember a couple of odd things….

Very often, simple humor gets mis-understood…

If you step on somebody’s toes…. It’s easier to say sorry, than build your own Mooney website…

 

if you have less that 1k post count… you’re still a newbie….  

 

if you are under 70… somebody will call you a young buck… 

if you suggest a full modern Mooney solution for a 1965 Mooney challenge… the price is going to be enormous… to the 65C owner…. A new cowling with plumbing for my O cost more than my previous M20C.

 

Does everyone remember where the alt air for the engine is, and how to activate it, and why it delivers less air?

 

PP thoughts only… 

Best regards,

-a-

[M20E78merlin]

Here we go again.  Looking for this boot for my M20E and it looks like LASAR is the best bet with a 35 week lead time.  Just taking the chance that someone has something faster they have found since the last post on the topic.

Thanks in advance!

[802flyer]

Ordered one from LASAR in the Spring and the 35wk wait time was advertised at that point. Just emailed Heather to ask how things are coming along. If they're still advertising 35wks, that makes me a bit worried that the Spring order hasn't gone though yet? Will see what she says and report back.

[802flyer]

1 hour ago, 802flyer said:

Ordered one from LASAR in the Spring and the 35wk wait time was advertised at that point. Just emailed Heather to ask how things are coming along. If they're still advertising 35wks, that makes me a bit worried that the Spring order hasn't gone though yet? Will see what she says and report back.

Sounds like they are receiving/shipping small batches at a time

 

[DCarlton]

On 12/3/2024 at 1:21 PM, 802flyer said:

Sounds like they are receiving/shipping small batches at a time

 

Mine was shipped yesterday from LASAR.  Will post a pic when it’s received.  

Ordered 09 Apr.  Received in 7 Dec.  The estimated 35 week lead time was about right.  

[Ragsf15e]

5 hours ago, M20E78merlin said:

Here we go again.  Looking for this boot for my M20E and it looks like LASAR is the best bet with a 35 week lead time.  Just taking the chance that someone has something faster they have found since the last post on the topic.

Thanks in advance!

You might need to talk to Heather at Lasar or maybe make a deal with someone who ordered a spare in the spring.  They are coming in but they are going out just as fast right now…

Maybe put in a new order with heather and buy someone else’s now and then sell them back the new ordered one later?

[M20E78merlin]

On 12/3/2024 at 5:43 PM, Ragsf15e said:

You might need to talk to Heather at Lasar or maybe make a deal with someone who ordered a spare in the spring.  They are coming in but they are going out just as fast right now…

Maybe put in a new order with heather and buy someone else’s now and then sell them back the new ordered one later?

I have an order in now.  I was told the lead time is 20 weeks.  The boot that is on there now is suitable, but appears to be close to no longer being suitable.  Annual in Feb will either clear it for a bit or ground me until I figure something out.

[AH-1 Cobra Pilot]

If you can design a replacement STL file for the part that has parallel ends, I would recommend using a MarkForged printer with polypropylene filament and glass fiber, (or carbon fiber), reinforcement.

[201guy]

Carl at Houston Tank Specialists has 2.

281-799-8487

[Gee Bee Aeroproducts]

Low production, I will never tool / mold 

Best to keep a spare , 18 year shelf life if silicone.

Extend the life of the Boot , don’t use solvents to clean.

[cliffy]

On areas that get rubbed from the outside apply opened up fire sleeve with high temp

red silicone as a chafe barrier

At some point our antique airplanes will become beer cans. No one can stop that.

[Sinclair51]

Where can I get a air intake duct for my M20F

?

[Aaviationist]

10 minutes ago, Sinclair51 said:

Where can I get a air intake duct for my M20F

?

Step one hope

step two pray. 

do a lot of waiting in between. 

[varlajo]

23 minutes ago, Sinclair51 said:

Where can I get a air intake duct for my M20F

?

LASAR takes preorders. 3-4 month wait minimum, and could be much longer. 

Call Dan Riesland. 

[Vance Harral]

22 hours ago, varlajo said:

Call Dan Riesland. 

FYI, it's my understanding that Dan is no longer with LASAR.  I'd be happy to be wrong about that if someone wants to correct me.

[varlajo]

1 hour ago, Vance Harral said:

FYI, it's my understanding that Dan is no longer with LASAR.  I'd be happy to be wrong about that if someone wants to correct me.

Oh he very much is. Literally spoke with him yesterday 

[Vance Harral]

Thanks, that's great news.

[Sinclair51]

Thanks guys…. Looks like I may be grounded for the summer 

[MikeOH]

9 minutes ago, Sinclair51 said:

Thanks guys…. Looks like I may be grounded for the summer 

How bad of shape is your current one?  I replaced mine 2 years ago at annual since TopGun had one in stock and I knew they were hard to get.

You are welcome to my old one but it is not perfect (otherwise I wouldn't have replaced it!)

If you are interested I can take some pictures of my old one.

[Ragsf15e]

1 hour ago, MikeOH said:

How bad of shape is your current one?  I replaced mine 2 years ago at annual since TopGun had one in stock and I knew they were hard to get.

You are welcome to my old one but it is not perfect (otherwise I wouldn't have replaced it!)

If you are interested I can take some pictures of my old one.

This along with some minor rtv repairs could be a good solution.  Most mechanics are ok with some minor repairs as turbo described above.  Just don’t get into the duct tape and bailing wire as it is a critical part.