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Posted

My intake boot (P/N 600064) is not in very good shape.  It has some small tears on the lower part near where it attaches to the airbox.  Lasar lists the part, but is out of stock.  It is also $400 dollars which seems way overpriced for what it is.  Has anyone repaired one of these or found an alternate part that is available and not overpriced?

Thanks,

Posted
Just now, cferr59 said:

My intake boot (P/N 600064) is not in very good shape.  It has some small tears on the lower part near where it attaches to the airbox.  Lasar lists the part, but is out of stock.  It is also $400 dollars which seems way overpriced for what it is.  Has anyone repaired one of these or found an alternate part that is available and not overpriced?

Thanks,

Just had a new one put in about a month ago at Daytona Aircraft Service in Spruce Creek FL....not sure where they got it but they did,,,,they are a MSC....maybe they have another for you

Posted
12 minutes ago, cferr59 said:

My intake boot (P/N 600064) is not in very good shape.  It has some small tears on the lower part near where it attaches to the airbox.  Lasar lists the part, but is out of stock.  It is also $400 dollars which seems way overpriced for what it is.  Has anyone repaired one of these or found an alternate part that is available and not overpriced?

Thanks,

Might be worthwhile contacting this MS member.  Looks like he may have a boot.

 

Posted

We have a somewhat active thread already in-progress here that discusses a non-standard “repair” method using RTV and cloth. Otherwise it appears these things wear like socks. I really wish there was a better solution.
$408 from LASAR but it’s never in stock.

Posted
Just now, tigers2007 said:

We have a somewhat active thread already in-progress here that discusses a non-standard “repair” method using RTV and cloth. Otherwise it appears these things wear like socks. I really wish there was a better solution.
$408 from LASAR but it’s never in stock.

Be sure to contact Lasar by phone directly. Even though they may not have it in stock doesn't mean they can't have it drop shipped from Mooney if Mooney has it in stock or as soon as they do.

Be very careful attempting a repair with RTV since It could expose your engine or filter to sucking in pieces of RTV from the repair site. 

  • Like 1
Posted
1 hour ago, cferr59 said:

My intake boot (P/N 600064) is not in very good shape.  It has some small tears on the lower part near where it attaches to the airbox.  Lasar lists the part, but is out of stock.  It is also $400 dollars which seems way overpriced for what it is.  Has anyone repaired one of these or found an alternate part that is available and not overpriced?

Thanks,

While it might seem to be over priced, flying with holes in the duct lets dirt in to wear out your cylinders which cost significantly more.

Clarence

Posted

You’re going to want to have some sort of filtered air coming in. A bellows with holes may let in dust and debris. Are you asking if one could just mount the filter directly onto the engine?

Posted

Just a note of good service by an MS'er

I bought something from Alan recently and it came fast, exceptionally well packaged and just as described in his ad. 

I won't hesitate to buy from him again if my needs indicate. 

  • Like 1
Posted
9 hours ago, tigers2007 said:

You’re going to want to have some sort of filtered air coming in. A bellows with holes may let in dust and debris. Are you asking if one could just mount the filter directly onto the engine?

I'm no mechanic, so that's why I'm asking @M20Doc, but the way I see it is that the boot only serves as a channel to bypass the air coming in from the air filter. So when you use the bypass, it takes unfiltered air directly to the engine. Maybe there is a legal way to condemn that opening and get rid of the $500 every 5 years boot!

  • Like 1
Posted
10 minutes ago, drapo said:

I'm no mechanic, so that's why I'm asking @M20Doc, but the way I see it is that the boot only serves as a channel to bypass the air coming in from the air filter. So when you use the bypass, it takes unfiltered air directly to the engine. Maybe there is a legal way to condemn that opening and get rid of the $500 every 5 years boot!

Both filtered and bypass air pass thru the same accordion duct, so you’re more or less stuck with it.  Making sure that engines are installed correctly with good mounts, making sure the cowl is correctly aligned with the engine and lastly a propeller balance all should improve the life expectancy of the duct.

Clarence

Posted
16 hours ago, M20Doc said:

Both filtered and bypass air pass thru the same accordion duct, so you’re more or less stuck with it.  Making sure that engines are installed correctly with good mounts, making sure the cowl is correctly aligned with the engine and lastly a propeller balance all should improve the life expectancy of the duct.

Clarence

Thanks Clarence for the explanation!

Posted (edited)
On 5/30/2020 at 7:06 PM, cferr59 said:

My intake boot (P/N 600064) is not in very good shape.  It has some small tears on the lower part near where it attaches to the airbox.  Lasar lists the part, but is out of stock.  It is also $400 dollars which seems way overpriced for what it is.  Has anyone repaired one of these or found an alternate part that is available and not overpriced?

Thanks,

I paid 579 with the freight, part and the labor to do the job.......supply and demand I guess........you should see what my friend pays for parts for his Volvo penta engines on his boat.....airplanes are just cheap toys compared to that........most of the labor is in removing and replacing the cowling....I will get a bonanza someday just for this reason.....I hate that we cant easily preflight the engine compartment before flight......

Edited by Jim Peace
Posted
On 5/31/2020 at 5:33 PM, M20Doc said:

Both filtered and bypass air pass thru the same accordion duct, so you’re more or less stuck with it.  Making sure that engines are installed correctly with good mounts, making sure the cowl is correctly aligned with the engine and lastly a propeller balance all should improve the life expectancy of the duct.

Clarence

I’d love to see a picture of an E/F model properly installed.  I spent a lot of time and effort when I installed my engine, w/new mounts, trying to get that sucker to line up better.  It’s probably one of the most jacked up intake designs I’ve ever seen.

Posted
13 minutes ago, Culver LFA said:

I’d love to see a picture of an E/F model properly installed.  I spent a lot of time and effort when I installed my engine, w/new mounts, trying to get that sucker to line up better.  It’s probably one of the most jacked up intake designs I’ve ever seen.

The intake boot should be almost perfectly lined up with the bolts out and boot relaxed

  • 10 months later...
Posted

Have you tried liquid electrical tape?

https://www.amazon.com/Star-brite-Liquid-Electrical-Tape/dp/B0000AXNOD

this stuff is at Lowe's too:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FPAN2K/ref=twister_B074RB7H1W?_encoding=UTF8&th=1

I've used it on my race car - great for rips, is very flexible, can seal very well...

4 years on an it's holding up well!

-Don

 

Posted

Be careful about buying an "aged" boot.  Shortly after I bought my Mooney, I replaced my intake boot with a "new" one from a well known Mooney supplier.  3 years later, there were several wear holes in the boot.  Because of the high cost, I was ripped and contacted the manufacturer.  The representative was sympathetic and had me read him the date code.

It turned out the "new" boot was more than 10 years old!

Eventually, I got a "new" boot and am still using it.

Those things age, get brittle and get holes in them.

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