cctsurf

Basic Member
  • Content Count

    343
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

125 Excellent

About cctsurf

  • Rank
    Lives Here

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Reg #
    n6428U
  • Model
    M20C

Recent Profile Visitors

1,155 profile views
  1. I (James), my wife Michelle, and our 3 kids plan on attending.
  2. Thankfully not handicapped...expecting. My wife would prefer her walking to be done in the show, not on the way to it. She's also a pilot, and comes to Oshkosh even when I can't make it (and takes the kids, too). Yeah, we have ended up near 41 as well... The later we arrive, it seems the closer we get to the highway, and sometimes closer to Fond du lac. I'd really like to avoid that this year. Just curious how much closer arriving on Saturday would get us compared to arriving on Sunday. We tent, so small spaces are ok with us... The buses haven't worked real well for us because we usually have a stroller and a wagon for our other kids. I'm open to other ideas for getting to and from our tent if it seems that we will be way out there. I wish we had a golf cart or something similar to bring. I know they can be rented, but I doubt our budget would allow that. Thanks!
  3. When does Camp Scholler fill up at Oshkosh? It is somewhat important that we be as close to the gate as possible this year. We could arrive either Saturday or Sunday mid-afternoon. I realize that it would be better on Saturday, but we have another opportunity that makes Sunday afternoon easier. So, if the camping doesn't really fill up until Sunday, I would prefer to arrive then. We have camped in Scholler the last 5 years, but have always arrived late Sunday or early Monday. We note that there is a big difference between camping locations at 7 and 9 pm Sunday, let alone Monday morning. Any thoughts? THANKS in advance!
  4. It's a little south, but my family and I are planning to go to Dayton, OH to the Air Force Museum. Maybe you have already been there, but I can't wait to look at the XB-70 and the YF-12...
  5. I'm in favor of using a spotted owl...
  6. Here is an article on the m20c: http://www.mooneypilots.com/mapalog/M20C Evaluation/M20C_Evaluation_Report.html
  7. I don't know if this is a help to the original poster's question, but I find it very interesting. My understanding is that in the late '60s, the manufacturing of the 'C models was at its peak. I can't remember the exact years, but if I remember correctly, in 1966 or 67, they built new tooling for manufacture and built the straightest, fastest 'C models made. It took a bit to get the use of the tooling down, and I believe it was in '67 that they peaked. Unfortunately, it wasn't too long and in '68, they had financial trouble. (again, my dates may be a bit off) After they were sold to Republic, there were a number of changes that made for worse airplanes, like fewer flush rivets in the wings. I have a fairly modified 1962 C model. My father has a 67 C model. Stock, His was 10mph faster than mine. His has damage history, mine does not. Other things to note is that in the early '60s, the heat was only in the front seat foot wells. (my '62 is this way.) I'm not certain of the years, but later on, there was heat piped to the back seats as well... Oh, do I wish I had that, my poor kids in the back freeze. I've thought of retrofitting it with later parts, but it seems a lot of work. I'm certain there were other refinements as the years moved along, but things did not always get better (as with the flush riveting or with making the electric gear standard). Just my $0.02.
  8. At the frequencies our vhf radios operate (around 100mhz), probably not. RG400 has an attenuation of 4.1db per 100ft. RG58 has an attenuation of 4.4db per 100ft. ( https://www.awcwire.com/productspec.aspx?id=rg400-coaxial-cable ) You're talking tenths of decibels at the distances we're running. If you plan on installing a Garmin nav/com, you might be worth it 'cause they recommend it...
  9. Less than that, you can replace the belly strobe and top beacon with just wingtip position/strobe lights. No need of a strobe in the tail. It seems those would work, but I will not venture to be able to tell you finally. 2) What about the tail identification light? (And do I need a strobe in the tail, or just a light?) It would seem from Whelen's work that a tail strobe is not necessary for compliance. 3) Do the LED strobes need to be synchronized? They do not as far as I understand. I have heard suggestions that when they are synchronized they are harder to see. 4) What do I close up the holes top and bottom with? Duct tape... you will need to make or have made aluminum patches somewhat similar to our inspection panels. 5) Why is this so difficult? for me... AMUs. I don't know why for you. Call Whelen if those are the lights you are interested in. I'm sure they can direct you better than I can. PP Thoughts, So take them with a grain of salt... perhaps a salt block.
  10. This is a well-worn topic. I'd love to get rid of my coffee grinder, myself, but the prices on replacement options are too expensive for this cb. Interestingly enough, my coffee grinder doesn't grind too loudly. Because you are pre-August 10, 1971, you are required to have 100 effective candela aviation red or white 360 degrees around the vertical axis, 30 deg above and below the horizontal plain. They raised the requirement to 400 candela from 71-77 and now have required that it be 75 degree above and below the horizontal plain. As far as I can tell, there are a number of ways to fulfill the requirements for our planes: I personally would want to achieve at least the 400 effective candela. Compliance can be accomplished by 1 strobe on top of the tail fin, two wing-tip strobes that extend beyond the wingtips (are not in wingtip fairings), if you have wingtip fairings, then another strobe on the tail or vertical fin is required, Finally, you could just upgrade your current top and bottom system and be ok as well. To me, the other issue is redundancy. I would not like to be flying around with a broken/burned out light and thereby be grounded at night. Therefore, I have retained the coffee grinder, though it is no longer required.
  11. With the headliner removed, also check the mechanism (especially the cable) for the cabin vent actuation. I've seen pictures on mooneyspace of what that entails, and if I ever have to remove my headliner, I'll finally get to repair mine (it works...barely).
  12. I'm pretty certain this is how a number of 'a models currently have metal wings.
  13. I appreciate my powerflow. I'm not going to make performance claims, but I believe them to be true, I have used tuned exhausts on snowmobiles and for other motor sports, they do make power. I also note that my installation is not nearly as ugly and out in the wind as the one pictured above. I will also mention a couple of negatives to the powerflow: 1. The scat tubing will have to be re-routed (and lengthened) for the install. 2. There really isn't a muffler on the powerflow. Yes, there is a glasspack, but it really doesn't do much for sound reduction.
  14. Don't despair of having it repaired. My understanding is that they can "repair" almost anything for exhaust (talk to the aftermarket turbo guys on that one). As long as they use one part of the original system it is considered a "rebuilt" system. WAY cheaper than a new one. But then again, there's always the powerflow... <Cracks open can of worms, steps back to watch>