Oil Filter on O-360 A1D

[Buckeyechuck]

The engine on my ‘62 M20C has told me she’s done. Time for an overhaul. She currently still has the original oil screen and one of the things I want to do is convert from a screen to an oil filter. There isn’t much room back there. Does anyone with an older C model have this conversion?  Did you use a direct mount or a remote mount?  Also, any recommendations on an engine shop near Ohio?  I’m thinking about Signature in Cincinnati.  Also doing prop, controls, hoses, mounts, etc.  Want this done right.  

[tigers2007]

I'm quite surprised that no one ever installed the oil filter conversion. How did she specifically tell you she's done? How many hours SMOH? I'm curious...

[Buckeyechuck]

Past TBO about 2100 hrs.  I had three chrome cylinders and one nitride.  The nitride is good, the chromed are all low compression - low 60's? I was expecting them to give up sooner rather than later.  I'll never have another chrome cylinder on anything. Nothing but trouble. 

[chriscalandro]

I’ve seen the remote mount that seemed very handy and easy to access. The direct adaptor seems like a pain. 
 

I personally don’t have either, but I’d like to someday do the remote myself. 

[RLCarter]

Remote mount is nice, just remember there are 2 oil lines that could fail, but if I was installing an oil filter on mine (already has the adaptor) I would go remote

[Andy95W]

On a pre-1965 Mooney, definitely go with the remote, and mount it on the firewall on the same side as your oil quick drain.  You'll cut your oil change time by 1/2 because you'll only have to remove one third of your cowling.

[ragedracer1977]

1 hour ago, Andy95W said:

On a pre-1965 Mooney, definitely go with the remote, and mount it on the firewall on the same side as your oil quick drain.  You'll cut your oil change time by 1/2 because you'll only have to remove one third of your cowling.

Pre 65, at least to my knowledge, have the battery box on firewall on that side.  In my 63, I’d be hard pressed to mount a remote filter.  

[Hank]

My C has the oil filter mounted behind the engine. Yes, it's tight. In the Downloads section, I have posted an oil change process. It's not really hard, but you will need a 1" wrench and a scrap of sheet metal 3-4" wide and 2-3 feet long.

[Buckeyechuck]

So there is only one potential spot for the remote mount on my airplane and that is below the voltage regulator. It looks tight even there. Anyone have it in that location? Battery box is on the other side. 

[tigers2007]

Cowl removal is like 7 minutes. Reinstallation is the same. Even if you change the oil and filter every 25hrs, that 14 minutes to R&R the cowling could save you some trouble as it’s a great time to spend five minutes with a flashlight to spot any issues (hoses/wires rubbing,etc). I just pulled my cowling the other day and found the hose clamp on the vacuum pump came loose and was bouncing around. Invest in a quality electric screwdriver that won’t overtorque the screws. Rear engine mounted oil filter also eliminates the critical hoses associated with a remote mount filter kit (only have to worry about your oil cooler hoses blowing).
Did your A&P check your compressions multiple times (hot/cold) etc?


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[jwarren2]

I have the rear mounted adapter on mine -installed by previous owner-and it is somewhat of a pain. First you have to stuff a bunch or rags under the oil filter or you'll have one big mess to clean up and second safety wiring the filter is a challenge for someone who has big hands. 

[Andy95W]

3 hours ago, Buckeyechuck said:

So there is only one potential spot for the remote mount on my airplane and that is below the voltage regulator. It looks tight even there. Anyone have it in that location? Battery box is on the other side. 

Sorry about the poor quality.  

All M20Cs have the battery box on the firewall, even post 1965, unless they have been modified to emulate the M20E.

[skydvrboy]

2 hours ago, jwarren2 said:

I have the rear mounted adapter on mine -installed by previous owner-and it is somewhat of a pain. First you have to stuff a bunch or rags under the oil filter or you'll have one big mess to clean up and second safety wiring the filter is a challenge for someone who has big hands. 

Find Hank's oil change process.  He uses a metal channel to divert the oil from the filter, but I chose to use a 1" PVC pipe cut in half lengthwise (not my idea but stolen from another MS'er).  I then stick an empty oil bottle on the end to catch the oil.  Either will work, but draining the oil from the filter becomes a hands-free no-mess affair.  No need for rags, drip pans, or any anything else.  Knowing the tricks makes it a cleaner job than changing the oil in my truck.

I'll give you that the safety wire can be a challenge for big hands, but it gets a lot easier with a little practice.

[jwarren2]

12 minutes ago, skydvrboy said:

Find Hank's oil change process.  He uses a metal channel to divert the oil from the filter, but I chose to use a 1" PVC pipe cut in half lengthwise (not my idea but stolen from another MS'er).  I then stick an empty oil bottle on the end to catch the oil.  Either will work, but draining the oil from the filter becomes a hands-free no-mess affair.  No need for rags, drip pans, or any anything else.  Knowing the tricks makes it a cleaner job than changing the oil in my truck.

I'll give you that the safety wire can be a challenge for big hands, but it gets a lot easier with a little practice.

Thanks for the tip. Never thought about something adaptable, must admit sounds like a good plan. 

[Hank]

43 minutes ago, skydvrboy said:

Find Hank's oil change process.  He uses a metal channel to divert the oil from the filter . . .

Dang, I was gonna add a link but can't find the Download section here on my phone. Maybe when I get back to my desk . . . .

[skydvrboy]

Let's see if this works.

 

[tigers2007]

Cheap Bast***d ("CB") way is to take a razor knife to a long piece of cardboard and cut it about 4" wide. Lay a strip of duct tape long ways so the oil won't absorb into the cardboard, crease it down the middle, and then you can wrap some tape perpendicular to hold a "v" crease at a couple spots. Toss it in the trash when done. Cheaper than the $30 Form-A-Funnel and less laborious than the PVC design (which I envy). 

[Hank]

13 minutes ago, tigers2007 said:

Cheap Bast***d ("CB") way is to take a razor knife to a long piece of cardboard and cut it about 4" wide. Lay a strip of duct tape long ways so the oil won't absorb into the cardboard, crease it down the middle, and then you can wrap some tape perpendicular to hold a "v" crease at a couple spots. Toss it in the trash when done. Cheaper than the $30 Form-A-Funnel and less laborious than the PVC design (which I envy). 

Mine was made from home builders' wing rib scrap, free to the PO. Drip Edge at the hardware store is just a few bucks. Both are reusable. 

My free scrap came with the plane in 2007, going strong. Been used on every single oil change since then . . . .

[Buckeyechuck]

In response to tigers2007 question, this compression check was done hot. Multiple checks. Heard plenty of air coming out oil fill tube (rings) even though prop felt similar on all cylinders.  Past compression checks were cold and always in upper 70’s.  Not realistic.  I questioned this so went to a different mechanic to get new eye on things.  I know Lycoming SB requires hot compression check.  I’ve put off things like oil filter, engine heater, engine analyzer until I overhauled. Doing all that now. Still trying to decide on engine shop.  

[markgrue]

I am considering a rear mounted oil filter adapter between the mags.  Does anyone have one and if so can you post a pic?  I would like to see where it is and how close to the firewall.

 

Mark

[Hank]

1 hour ago, markgrue said:

I am considering a rear mounted oil filter adapter between the mags.  Does anyone have one and if so can you post a pic?  I would like to see where it is and how close to the firewall.

 

Mark

Scroll up four posts and follow the link. Should be a top-down photo showing placement of the drip trough. 

[Buckeyechuck]

23 hours ago, Hank said:

Scroll up four posts and follow the link. Should be a top-down photo showing placement of the drip trough. 

Reviewed the PowerPoint download.  Did not see the top down photo.  Great presentation otherwise.  Thanks Hank.  

[Hector]

Tight fit but after you do it a few times it’s easy and you don’t need to spill a drop of oil.


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[carusoam]

The oil filter label needs another option... left/right/CENTER... 

-a-

[Andy95W]

6 minutes ago, carusoam said:

The oil filter label needs another option... left/right/CENTER... 

-a-

For the new Tri-Mooney that will reinvigorate the factory.  

(Sorry.  Still saddened by that whole mess.)