Oil Change in M20C w/ Oil Screen

[FlyRye]

So, we’re finally getting a hangar. I would like to try and save some money by changing our own oil in our M20C. I notice there’s a handful of discussions that covers the topic but they all seem to be M20E or later that refers to oil filters. Our M20C does not have an oil filter but an oil screen instead. Any help would be greatly appreciated. 

Edited November 28, 2017 by FlyRye

[N201MKTurbo]

First you need to figure out if you have a screen or a filter. If you have a screen you will need to get a bunch of gaskets and lock washers. If you have a filter you will need to get a bunch of filters and some lock wire and lock wire pliers. You will need the proper hand tools to get the job done.

[DXB]

If you don't have an oil quick drain valve, you certainly want to get one installed:

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/safOilDrainValves.php

Also the screen is a PITA to remove and re-secure with safety wire, even for an A&P.  Realistically, it rarely gets pulled except at annual.  You will  likely be inspired to get a filter conversion, which lets you change your oil less often, and also cut and monitor for metal at oil changes:

http://www.airwolf.com/aw/products/remote-mount-oil-filter-kits/lycoming-engines

I'd certainly suggest paying an A&P to take you through it the first time.  I read up on it and watched a couple of videos but then decided to pay for pro help and was very glad I did. There are lots of small details that will keep you safe and save time/misery down the road.

In case it helps, here's my list of stuff I bought before my first oil change (I have a spin on filter).  Note I'd get the 0.032 safety wire, not the 0.041 listed below.

[Raptor05121]

Just an update on Dev's post above, the new Tempest AA48110-2 filters you purchase from AircraftSpruce are their new "EZ Spin" models that come with a rubber gasket pre-treated with a lubrication compound. You no longer need the DC-4 or "finger of oil"

I just did my oil change today. 1" box-end wrench help loosened it, put a Wal-Mart bag around it, spun it off and tipping it up, not a drop spilled. Easy peasy.

Don't forget a 5' section of garden hose!

[Hank]

This is how I change the oil in my C. 

 

 

[Skates97]

I let it drain completely, then loosen the filter and with a couple rags under it put a gallon ziploc bag around the filter and spin it off, very little oil lost. This is what ended up on the rags under the filter after the last oil change.

The best thing I bought for doing oil changes was this wrench on suggestion of someone else on the forums here. It makes removing the filter very easy.

GearWrench 9032 1-Inch Combination Ratcheting Wrench

[FlyRye]

2 hours ago, N201MKTurbo said:

First you need to figure out if you have a screen or a filter. If you have a screen you will need to get a bunch of gaskets and lock washers. If you have a filter you will need to get a bunch of filters and some lock wire and lock wire pliers. You will need the proper hand tools to get the job done.

Sorry, I should have been more clear on the initial post. I have a screen. I was aware of gasket, part #61173. What about the lock washer? Any idea what that part number is?

[Guest]

2 hours ago, FlyRye said:

So, we’re finally getting a hangar. I would like to try and save some money by changing our own oil in our M20C. I notice there’s a handful of discussions that covers the topic but they all seem to be M20E or later that refers to oil filters. I’m told our M20C does not have an oil filter but an oil screen instead. If so, what do I need to look out for? Any help would be greatly appreciated. 

If you peak in thru the oil access door you should be able to see the oil filter at the upper back of the engine, if there is a filter.  If you have a screen you’ll need a 61173 gasket and 4 MS35333-40 lock washers.  

Once the upper cowl is removed you’ll need to remove the connector from the oil temp sensor, then remove the 4 bolt which hold the screen housing to the back of the engine. Be sure to examine to bolts for stretching from over torquing them, reinstall with new gasket and lock washers using a torque wrench to tighten the bolts to 96 inch pounds.

Clarence

[FlyRye]

2 hours ago, DXB said:

If you don't have an oil quick drain valve, you certainly want to get one installed:

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/safOilDrainValves.php

Also the screen is a PITA to remove and re-secure with safety wire, even for an A&P.  Realistically, it rarely gets pulled except at annual.  You will  likely be inspired to get a filter conversion, which lets you change your oil less often, and also cut and monitor for metal at oil changes:

http://www.airwolf.com/aw/products/remote-mount-oil-filter-kits/lycoming-engines

I'd certainly suggest paying an A&P to take you through it the first time.  I read up on it and watched a couple of videos but then decided to pay for pro help and was very glad I did. There are lots of small details that will keep you safe and save time/misery down the road.

In case it helps, here's my list of stuff I bought before my first oil change (I have a spin on filter).  Note I'd get the 0.032 safety wire, not the 0.041 listed below.

Thanks for all the info. Any idea on what it takes and a ballpark cost to do a filter conversion?

[DXB]

Just now, FlyRye said:

Thanks for all the info. Any idea on what it takes and a ballpark cost to do a filter conversion?

Looks like kit in link  for our engine is $600.  I've no clue on labor since mine came with the conversion.

[Raptor05121]

I was not aware that these did not come with filters from the factory.

[FlyRye]

9 minutes ago, DXB said:

Looks like kit in link  for our engine is $600.  I've no clue on labor since mine came with the conversion.

Good to know. Thanks. Sounds like the oil screen is a PITA. Probably why I haven’t been able to find much guidance on oil screen system. Conversion is definitely something to consider in the future.

[FlyRye]

37 minutes ago, Hank said:

This is how I change the oil in my C. 

 

 

Thanks Hank! Once we get a chance to convert to oil filter, I’ll definitely refer back to this for reference.

[FlyRye]

Sorry I’ve been responding all out of order. I’m kinda new to this. I greatly appreciate all the info everyone has given so far. I suppose it would have helped if my initial post was a little more clear.

[FlyRye]

23 minutes ago, M20Doc said:

If you peak in thru the oil access door you should be able to see the oil filter at the upper back of the engine, if there is a filter.  If you have a screen you’ll need a 61173 gasket and 4 MS35333-40 lock washers.  

Once the upper cowl is removed you’ll need to remove the connector from the oil temp sensor, then remove the 4 bolt which hold the screen housing to the back of the engine. Be sure to examine to bolts for stretching from over torquing them, reinstall with new gasket and lock washers using a torque wrench to tighten the bolts to 96 inch pounds.

Clarence

Thanks Clarence!  I appreciate that. That’s very helpful information. 

[Ned Gravel]

I still have the torque wrench I bought when I had the screen.  Today I have the filter.  Much easier.

[RobertGary1]

3 hours ago, N201MKTurbo said:

First you need to figure out if you have a screen or a filter. If you have a screen you will need to get a bunch of gaskets and lock washers. If you have a filter you will need to get a bunch of filters and some lock wire and lock wire pliers. You will need the proper hand tools to get the job done.

Im pretty sure all Lycomings have a screen and a filter but most people ignore the screen  

-Robert

Edited November 28, 2017 by RobertGary1

[RLCarter]

your best bet would be get an A&P or someone with a Mooney that changes there own oil and have them look over your shoulder. Changing your oil & filter/screen cleaning isn't that hard but there are steps to follow to make go much easier. and remember there are no dumb questions 

[Hank]

27 minutes ago, Ned Gravel said:

I still have the torque wrench I bought when I had the screen.  Today I have the filter.  Much easier.

1" combination wrench for the oil filter, check! Torque wrench for spark plugs. Check!

[Hank]

Just now, RLCarter said:

your best bet would be get an A&P or someone with a Mooney that changes there own oil and have them look over your shoulder. Changing your oil & filter/screen cleaning isn't that hard but there are steps to follow to make go much easier. and remember there are no dumb questions 

Beat me to it . . . If you're halfway mechanically inclined, it's a simple one-time walk through. It is, however, more involved than changing the oil in your car. A little.

[Skates97]

Just now, Hank said:

Beat me to it . . . If you're halfway mechanically inclined, it's a simple one-time walk through. It is, however, more involved than changing the oil in your car. A little.

With the quick drain fitting and the fact that I am standing on a little step stool to get to the oil filter (instead of jacking up the car and sliding underneath it) I find it easier than changing the oil on my cars. The only real added step making it more involved is the safety wire. (A pain the first time, easy after that)

[Ned Gravel]

1 hour ago, Hank said:

1" combination wrench for the oil filter, check! Torque wrench for spark plugs. Check!

Ya but the torque setting for the little itty bitty oil screen housing bolts is 96 inch pounds.  I can just about guarantee (without actually knowing the number) that the setting for the spark plugs will be significantly higher and both jobs probably cannot be done using the same tool.  I could be wrong, but I would check that one torque wrench can do both jobs before buying just the one.

Edit:  https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/pdf/championapp.pdf indicates it to be between 360 and 420 inch pounds - beyond the range of my small torque wrench.

 

[RLCarter]

25 minutes ago, Hank said:

It is, however, more involved than changing the oil in your car. A little.

I helped a buddy do his C a couple times and he did really well. he wanted to change his oil & filter a get in a few approaches afterwards and asked if I want to go (like I would say no to flying), said I didn't have to do anything but just sit there. Once at the airport he flew around the patch to stir up the oil then I helped remove the side panels and top cowl when he realized he had forgot the safety wire & pliers, so off on foot i went to my hangar to get mine. When I got back, the filter was off and the oil was draining. I happen to glance over at the plane only to notice a pretty good oil slick starting to form around the bottom of the oil bucket, yep the bottom was cracked. While he was cleaning up the mess I hiked back to my hangar for a better bucket. Once back he was just finishing up with the oil slick. Back in my chair I watched as the new filter went on and was asked to check the safety wire job, not too bad (he just needs to work on his speed, 30 minutes for safety wiring an oil filter is kinda slow). As he stepped off the step stool it slid just enough to knock over his old oil filter which was in the new filter box..not as big of a spill but the box was toast. Some how when adding the oil he dropped an open bottle but grabbed it, squeezing the sides and squirting about a 1/2 qt all over the cylinders. him being 20 yrs my junior this time I sent him over to my hangar to get the insecticide sprayer will 100LL for what I hoped would be the last of the comedy of errors. All cleaned up and reassemble it was off for some approaches (4 hrs later). Being the good friend I am and a bit of a smart ass I showed up at his house the next morning with my power washer in the bed of the truck and said come on, we're going to the airport and power wash your floor 'cause it looked like it needed it when we left yesturday

[Guest]

6 hours ago, RobertGary1 said:

Im pretty sure all Lycomings have a screen and a filter but most people ignore the screen  

-Robert

Early in the life of Lycoming Engines pressure side filtration was done with a screen inside an aluminum housing held on the engine with 4 1/4-20 NC bolts.  This was before they started installing pressure full flow filters.

The oil suction screen is on the lower portion of the accessory housing and for most engines requires an MS35769-21 copper gasket and a piece of 0.032 safety wire.

More often ignored is the suction screen on TCM 360 series engine.

Clarence