DaV8or Posted August 23, 2016 Report Posted August 23, 2016 8 minutes ago, Pictreed said: The valve inside under the dash? I'll order some rubber tonight from McMaster Carr. Any idea on which one? Butyl rubber? LASAR will have the part in on Thursday and is around $165 but I'll see what I can do with my A&P I think it's the same material they use for engine baffle seals in the cowling. Aircraft Spruce would be the place to get that IMO. Quote
Pictreed Posted August 23, 2016 Author Report Posted August 23, 2016 I saw some sort of disk with a shaft and possibly a spring. I'll take a look at it too. I'm in the process of putting all of the logs in digital form so I can see what's been done and when. Quote
Guest Posted August 23, 2016 Report Posted August 23, 2016 Engine alternate air is drawn from inside the cowl through a door behind the air filter. It is the subject of SI M20-37B for E and F models. J models are cover by the manual. http://www.mooney.com/en/si/M20-37B.pdf Clarence Quote
mooniac15u Posted August 23, 2016 Report Posted August 23, 2016 9 hours ago, carusoam said: Alt air and alt static source (valve near the yoke) are different systems... (Easily confused in conversation, at least by me...) One is for static instruments and the other to feed the engine when ice blocks the air filter. Alt air for the C is open when carb heat is turned on. I'm not sure how the E handles this but it has something for it. The J and R use a door that opens under the cowl... It gets tested on each pre-flight... (Kind of important) Best regards, -a- The alternate air on the J does not have a manual control. It is controlled by a spring. If the main induction air is blocked the alt air opens automatically due to pressure differential. There isn't an easy way to test this on a routine preflight. It can be checked if you are willing to remove the cowl. 1 Quote
Pictreed Posted August 23, 2016 Author Report Posted August 23, 2016 I may end up removing the cowl to access the mount for the ram air door. Wish me luck! Quote
Guest Posted August 23, 2016 Report Posted August 23, 2016 1 hour ago, Pictreed said: I may end up removing the cowl to access the mount for the ram air door. Wish me luck! I think you can access it with the air filter removed. Clarence Quote
Pictreed Posted August 23, 2016 Author Report Posted August 23, 2016 That would be nice. I ordered some 1/16" A60 med-hard hardness heat and oil resistant Butyl rubber sheeting from Carr. It should hold up much better than what the factory used. I'll have to figure out a way to test the bypass spring. I'll post results. Quote
Guest Posted August 23, 2016 Report Posted August 23, 2016 4 minutes ago, Pictreed said: That would be nice. I ordered some 1/16" A60 med-hard hardness heat and oil resistant Butyl rubber sheeting from Carr. It should hold up much better than what the factory used. I'll have to figure out a way to test the bypass spring. I'll post results. Remove the air filter, hook a small fish scale to the end of the bolt and pull and read the scale value as the door opens. Clarence Quote
helitim Posted August 24, 2016 Report Posted August 24, 2016 Does your Ram Air really work? If so, then maybe it's worth repairing. My RamAir didn't seem to make any difference whatsoever in cruise flight so I followed the Mooney service letter and just removed it. Fabricated a nice cover and riveted it in place. Removed the controls from the panel and put it all on a shelf just in case someone here needs a replacement part someday. Tim Quote
ArtVandelay Posted August 24, 2016 Report Posted August 24, 2016 Does your Ram Air really work? If so, then maybe it's worth repairing. My RamAir didn't seem to make any difference whatsoever in cruise flight so I followed the Mooney service letter and just removed it. Fabricated a nice cover and riveted it in place. Removed the controls from the panel and put it all on a shelf just in case someone here needs a replacement part someday. Tim I assume you have J model, earlier models have less efficient system. Quote
Pictreed Posted August 24, 2016 Author Report Posted August 24, 2016 I see just over 3/4" now so when it's fixed I should see over an inch. Not because I made it better in the open position but because it's worse in the closed position since it's all being diverted through the air filter; however, I won't be sucking in dirt. I have a black sponge type air filter with the sticky stuff on it (looks stock). What is that sticky stuff and how do you clean it in prep for a new coat? I saw a thread here last year about upgraded filters...any thoughts? Quote
Bob_Belville Posted August 24, 2016 Report Posted August 24, 2016 I installed a Challenger CP-1176 (M20E) several years ago. It's supposed to be an improvement but I am no expert. Seems to work fine with no service required between annuals. Quote
Guest Posted August 24, 2016 Report Posted August 24, 2016 The black foam filter is made by Brackett and is not meant to be serviced. 1" thick versions are replaced each 100 hours or at each annual inspection. The Challenger brand can be washed and re-oiled. Here is your Brackett filter http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/brackettairfilter57e.php Clarence Quote
N201MKTurbo Posted August 24, 2016 Report Posted August 24, 2016 13 hours ago, Pictreed said: It should hold up much better than what the factory used. Yea, the original material only lasted 50 years, what crap... Quote
Pictreed Posted August 25, 2016 Author Report Posted August 25, 2016 13 hours ago, N201MKTurbo said: Yea, the original material only lasted 50 years, what crap... That's hilarious. So true. Quote
TheTurtle Posted August 26, 2016 Report Posted August 26, 2016 If you do yank out the ramair take pictures. It looks like a nightmare of rivets. I need to do my gasket as well. Just replaced the duct. I only get maybe a 1/2" boost probably because its leaking so bad at the door seal. Quote
RLCarter Posted August 26, 2016 Report Posted August 26, 2016 There are a few rivets that need squeezed before the mounting bracket is re-installed, if memory serves going from front to back you have a....Front Plate > Seal (being replaced) > Rear Plate > Mounting Bracket. Not really that hard to do, check the sealing of the opening with a flashlight from the back side and look for light on the front side 1 Quote
Pictreed Posted August 26, 2016 Author Report Posted August 26, 2016 I'll get video or pics or something. The rubber sheet will be on tomorrow so looks like I'll try to get it done this weekend. Quote
Guitarmaster Posted August 26, 2016 Report Posted August 26, 2016 On August 23, 2016 at 8:31 PM, helitim said: Does your Ram Air really work? If so, then maybe it's worth repairing. My RamAir didn't seem to make any difference whatsoever in cruise flight so I followed the Mooney service letter and just removed it. Fabricated a nice cover and riveted it in place. Removed the controls from the panel and put it all on a shelf just in case someone here needs a replacement part someday. Tim Mine adds about 1.5" 1 Quote
Marauder Posted August 26, 2016 Report Posted August 26, 2016 On August 23, 2016 at 8:31 PM, helitim said: Does your Ram Air really work? If so, then maybe it's worth repairing. My RamAir didn't seem to make any difference whatsoever in cruise flight so I followed the Mooney service letter and just removed it. Fabricated a nice cover and riveted it in place. Removed the controls from the panel and put it all on a shelf just in case someone here needs a replacement part someday. Tim Mine adds about 1.5" He is flying a J and the ram is less effective than on our F models. I am seeing 1.2" according to my digital MP gauges. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk 1 Quote
Pictreed Posted August 27, 2016 Author Report Posted August 27, 2016 Took the part out tonight. I noticed it will take two different rivet sizes with the smaller ones installed first. Once the 3 screws were removed it just slids off the tab.This is looking from the bottom after filter is removed. 1 Quote
bjoseph604 Posted August 30, 2016 Report Posted August 30, 2016 On August 26, 2016 at 5:45 PM, Guitarmaster said: Mine adds about 1.5" I saw almost a 2 inch MP increase today in cruise at 8,500 MSL 1 Quote
Bob_Belville Posted August 31, 2016 Report Posted August 31, 2016 10 minutes ago, bjoseph604 said: I saw almost a 2 inch MP increase today in cruise at 8,500 MSL I think I'd have to inspect your air filter if it is costing 2" MAP. The most I ever see is 1.1". I have a Challenger Air filter KH p/n # CP1176, STC SA01669CHRD. 1 Quote
bjoseph604 Posted August 31, 2016 Report Posted August 31, 2016 47 minutes ago, Bob_Belville said: I think I'd have to inspect your air filter if it is costing 2" MAP. The most I ever see is 1.1". I have a Challenger Air filter KH p/n # CP1176, STC SA01669CHRD. I'm pretty sure I have a Brackett Filter. Need to confirm. I'm going to take a look at the one you are using thanks! Quote
Bob_Belville Posted August 31, 2016 Report Posted August 31, 2016 Just now, bjoseph604 said: I'm pretty sure I have a Brackett Filter. Need to confirm. I'm going to take a look at the one you are using thanks! I don't think the type filter would explain that much difference, check condition of the foam filter - it might need replacing, pretty cheap, under $20 for the BA 6305 that should fit your F. 1 Quote
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