garytex Posted September 12, 2015 Report Posted September 12, 2015 Whew! 67F stall warning lift detector switch Safe Flight Instrument Corp. part #46001 replacement cost of 1800 bucks at Spruce is the worst stupid aircraft part price i've ever seen. I wonder what Safe Flight's reasoning is? I may call them and ask come Monday. I have 2, one that will never sound the horn, one that will never stop sounding the horn. I'm going to try to fix them, but was looking for a reasonable replacement. Any ideas or reasonable work arounds? Thanks Gary Quote
Marauder Posted September 12, 2015 Report Posted September 12, 2015 Whew! 67F stall warning lift detector switch Safe Flight Instrument Corp. part #46001 replacement cost of 1800 bucks at Spruce is the worst stupid aircraft part price i've ever seen. I wonder what Safe Flight's reasoning is? I may call them and ask come Monday. I have 2, one that will never sound the horn, one that will never stop sounding the horn. I'm going to try to fix them, but was looking for a reasonable replacement. Any ideas or reasonable work arounds? Thanks Gary A used one? Check with the Mooney Boogie Man Alan Fox (N74795). He has parted out a few Mooneys and may be able to locate or have a used one. I paid $127 for the stupid static drain on the back. $20 part at best. Unless of course that brass was really gold... Quote
Sabremech Posted September 12, 2015 Report Posted September 12, 2015 I bought a used one last year on Ebay. Works like a champ and at a fraction of the cost of a new one. I'm certain new ones from Safe Flight are priced such that you won't purchase this but buy their AOA instead. David Quote
garytex Posted September 12, 2015 Author Report Posted September 12, 2015 Yes Sabremechanic, I noticed that, and wondered. One of the "no-worke" ones came from a junkyard. I just thought that with the thousands of these things around that a reasonable replacement would be around. I mean, they get flipped at every walk around, just that alone is many cycles. In the interim I was in the workroom, and a little contact cleaner seems to have done the trick. But i'm still surprised that there is no reasonable replacement for such an ubiquitous part at such an iniquitous price. Gary Quote
Yetti Posted September 12, 2015 Report Posted September 12, 2015 I would think drilling the two rivets out that hold the limit switch in and finding a replacement limit switch would work. But I have just seen pictures on the internet. There seem to be a fair amount of them on flea bay. Show us pictures of the underside. Quote
Guest Posted September 12, 2015 Report Posted September 12, 2015 Whew! 67F stall warning lift detector switch Safe Flight Instrument Corp. part #46001 replacement cost of 1800 bucks at Spruce is the worst stupid aircraft part price i've ever seen. I wonder what Safe Flight's reasoning is? I may call them and ask come Monday. I have 2, one that will never sound the horn, one that will never stop sounding the horn. I'm going to try to fix them, but was looking for a reasonable replacement. Any ideas or reasonable work arounds? Thanks Gary If you think that's bad, try one with heated face and vane for a FIKI airplane. While they are expensive I'm sure Safe Flight has some stiff liability limits. Pitot heads are a similar case, no moving parts and crazy price. Clarence Quote
HRM Posted September 12, 2015 Report Posted September 12, 2015 I wonder what Safe Flight's reasoning is? That switch costs about $20 bucks, the rest is an insurance policy on you. I'd take the two switches and leave them in my hangar with a note. I am betting my hangar elves could get one good unit out of the two. 2 Quote
takair Posted September 13, 2015 Report Posted September 13, 2015 I had the same problem last year. Working in avionics the thought of not being able to fix one is painful. The problem is that the switch in the Safefight vane must be built to spec for them. I tried for over a year to find a drop in replacement, finally gave up and got a used one that works. The switch should be $20 replacement, but Quote
M20F Posted September 13, 2015 Report Posted September 13, 2015 That switch costs about $20 bucks, the rest is an insurance policy on you. I'd take the two switches and leave them in my hangar with a note. I am betting my hangar elves could get one good unit out of the two. I find hanger fairies do better work, but I am following you here :-) Quote
Jerry 5TJ Posted September 13, 2015 Report Posted September 13, 2015 If you think that's bad, try one with heated face and vane for a FIKI airplane. While they are expensive I'm sure Safe Flight has some stiff liability limits. Pitot heads are a similar case, no moving parts and crazy price. Clarence ...and the vane for the PA46 is over $6,000... Quote
ArtVandelay Posted September 13, 2015 Report Posted September 13, 2015 Does anybody know how to correlate Mooney part numbers to Safe Flight part numbers? Quote
HRM Posted September 14, 2015 Report Posted September 14, 2015 I find hanger fairies do better work, but I am following you here :-) Yeah, but you don't want to drop a wrench and bend over when they're in the hangar. 3 Quote
KSMooniac Posted September 14, 2015 Report Posted September 14, 2015 I'm certain new ones from Safe Flight are priced such that you won't purchase this but buy their AOA instead. David Nice idea, but the new relaxed regs concerning AOA systems stipulate that they cannot substitute in place of existing systems on our planes. They can only be installed as a supplemental/stand-alone system. Agree about the insane price of these things and pitot tubes. I recently priced those since mine was looking kinda ratty and old. A simple re-chrome fixed that issue nicely after I recovered from seeing the price of a new tube. Quote
garytex Posted September 14, 2015 Author Report Posted September 14, 2015 Takair I was going to open one up & see the guts, but the contact cleaner worked, so next time. I also have been busy with a lyc defective new cyl kit, so that shortened my tinkering horizons. I am about to post re the cyl kit, it is an interesting story. Quote
DrBill Posted September 15, 2015 Report Posted September 15, 2015 i had one go bad in my Sundowner. Took it out and removed the lever (cotter pin). The plunger in the switch was stuck. Pulled out the plunger and a lot of fine dust/dirt came out with it. Flushed it out with mineral spirits, put it back together and it worked just fine. Had my A&P re-install. Still worked 3 years later. It might be same problem as yours. Bill 1 Quote
garytex Posted September 16, 2015 Author Report Posted September 16, 2015 Dr. Bill, I suspect it was something like that, the contact cleaner flushed quite a bit of dust out of the unit and I blew it out with compressed air and then, worked fine, I hope it'll last a long time 1 Quote
takair Posted September 17, 2015 Report Posted September 17, 2015 i had one go bad in my Sundowner. Took it out and removed the lever (cotter pin). The plunger in the switch was stuck. Pulled out the plunger and a lot of fine dust/dirt came out with it. Flushed it out with mineral spirits, put it back together and it worked just fine. Had my A&P re-install. Still worked 3 years later. It might be same problem as yours. Bill I started a small collection of bad ones. In my case it was the internal contacts, the plunger worked fine. The micro switch is sealed once you have the switch out of the housing. 1 Quote
M20F-1968 Posted September 17, 2015 Report Posted September 17, 2015 I had two and sold them both after about a year. Got about $300 each. The point of the story is that they can be bought used as they are not replaced often. Call Wentworth aircraft salvage in Minnesota. They may have one on the shelf. You might also try Dallas Air Salvage as they are in the heart of Mooney land. I would not try to either fix them or substitute the switch for something else. John Breda Quote
Immelman Posted September 23, 2015 Report Posted September 23, 2015 (edited) Elbow grease and a $5 can of contact cleaner.. work the hell out of that switch with it removed from the airplane, bathed right side up, upside down, sideways, all drenched in contact cleaner, and it may come back to life for you...but that's the easy part. But on the elbow-grease part, what a pain in the butt that thing is to R&R. You have been warned. Also it needs to be re-installed precisely to still give a proper stall warning; mark with a small scribe in a couple places. Edited September 23, 2015 by Immelman 1 Quote
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