N601RX Posted October 1, 2015 Report Posted October 1, 2015 I would not use the adhesive backing, it would be hard to place and even harder if it had to be removed. Just cut it for a tight fit between the bars and it will stay in place. 1 Quote
RLCarter Posted October 1, 2015 Report Posted October 1, 2015 The insulation serves 2 purposes, the skins are not structural on the fuselage and the insulation serves as a vibration dampener for the skins and therefore MUST be glued down, its second purpose is for noise/temp control Quote
Shadrach Posted October 1, 2015 Report Posted October 1, 2015 I used self adhesive .5" super soundproofing from Spruce. My thinking was the same as above. Airplanes are vibration prone and I wanted to dampen as much cabin vibration as possible. We definately noticed a difference in both noise reduction and temperature consistency. It's still loud, especially with all of the balls to the wall, but we can remove our headsets and communicate without yelling in cruise. The largest delta from before and after seems to be during ground operations; gone is the low frequency NVH. Engine and prop still make plenty of noise, but it does not transmit through the fuselage. My father in law commented on what he perceived to be a significant difference between my plane and John's (N4352H) J model (before he went all Beechcraft on us) after flying in both same day. I think it was worth the effort, but I'm not trading my Bose A20s anytime soon,,, Quote
N601RX Posted October 1, 2015 Report Posted October 1, 2015 The only corrosion I have found on my plane has been behind the adhesive insulation that Mooney put on the cockpit side of the front wheel well. It started turning loose and with a little pull came off. The top layer of the aluminum had turned to white powder. I've also had to remove the headliner backing with MEK that was glued in place, not fun. I prefer something I can remove everywhere possible. I also noticed that it seems Mooney used some form of thin spray on insulation on the bottom part of the forward side skins. This seems to have held up very well. Quote
Mooneymite Posted October 1, 2015 Report Posted October 1, 2015 (edited) I'm not a fan of peel and stick....it tends to stick to all the wrong things. It is virtually impossible to slide between the steel tubing and the skin. Just buy the non-sticky material, put it into place, then use an adhesive to keep it there. A spray adhesive works well in most places. In adition to absorbing sound, it also insulates. Edited October 1, 2015 by Mooneymite Quote
Shadrach Posted October 1, 2015 Report Posted October 1, 2015 I'm not a fan of peel and stick....it tends to stick to all the wrong things. It is virtually impossible to slide between the steel tubing and the skin. Just buy the non-sticky material, put it into place, then use an adhesive to keep it there. A spray adhesive works well in most places. In adition to absorbing sound, it also insulates. we felt the same way at first, but after some trial and error became quite good at placing our patterns. Sometimes one needs to Slide the foam behind a tube before removing the the backing strip covering the adhesive. The nice thing about closed cell is its righty (density) and liquid resistance. We zinc'd all of the sheet metal in the cabin from top to bottom and did the steel cage with zinc chromate two part epoxy. I hope it's good for the next 40 yrs. Quote
Raptor05121 Posted October 4, 2015 Author Report Posted October 4, 2015 (edited) We are jacking it up today and repacking the bearings. Also, the FAA finally got my registration: Edited October 4, 2015 by Raptor05121 1 Quote
bonal Posted October 4, 2015 Report Posted October 4, 2015 Alex, get that thing finished and go do some flying trust me when I say you will have plenty of opportunity to do upgrades. 2 Quote
Raptor05121 Posted October 4, 2015 Author Report Posted October 4, 2015 (edited) I'm trying.Bearings- One side had a leather-ish fabric "scraper" that goes outside of the bearing, but inside the dust cap. The other side did not. Does anyone have a blow-up view of the main wheel so I can verify order of installation and if we are missing parts? Mechanic is out of town today. I'm also looking for dimensions for the 100* countersunk screws for the wing inspection panels if anyone has those handy. Half of them were stripped out, so I'd like to order a couple hundred and replace them all with some anti-seize on the threads. Edited October 4, 2015 by Raptor05121 Quote
Yetti Posted October 4, 2015 Report Posted October 4, 2015 https://www.chiefaircraft.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=+ DD+M407 Quote
RLCarter Posted October 4, 2015 Report Posted October 4, 2015 (edited) The "leather like" is actually Felt (item 11) This is for a 1965, Edited October 4, 2015 by RLCarter Quote
Andy95W Posted October 5, 2015 Report Posted October 5, 2015 Inspection panel panel screws are 8-32 x 1/2". Stainless steel look nice. Aircraft Spruce part # is MS24693C50 Quote
Raptor05121 Posted October 5, 2015 Author Report Posted October 5, 2015 (edited) Yeti and Andy, thanks so much! I ordered 350. Enough to replace all the old ones and have some extra for later.Carter, could you PM/e-mail/repost the original image with the number descriptors? I think I am missing more than the felt by that image. Edited October 5, 2015 by Raptor05121 Quote
Yetti Posted October 5, 2015 Report Posted October 5, 2015 Page 5-10 http://www.monticellofc.org/aircraft/Mooney M20 Series S-MM 1980.pdf 1 Quote
RLCarter Posted October 5, 2015 Report Posted October 5, 2015 Alex, Here is Better Link to the manual('s) you should be able to save them to your computer from there. If you need more info let me know (pm) and I'll get you hooked up if possible. 1 Quote
Raptor05121 Posted October 5, 2015 Author Report Posted October 5, 2015 You guys are awesome Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk Quote
MB65E Posted October 5, 2015 Report Posted October 5, 2015 I there are 376 screws in the M20E wing. This does not count the belly panels or wing tank panels. The panels are structural so make sure you don't have the light stainless screws in there. N1395W has the correct ones. I used cad steel screws as I think they last longer than the stainless wrt the threads. I figured out why they call it the Mark 21... 21 panels in each wing! -Matt 1 Quote
Guest Posted October 6, 2015 Report Posted October 6, 2015 (edited) Yeti and Andy, thanks so much! I ordered 350. Enough to replace all the old ones and have some extra for later.Carter, could you PM/e-mail/repost the original image with the number descriptors? I think I am missing more than the felt by that image. Those screws will be about 4-6 threads too long, times 350 screws you'll turn your screwdriver 2800 extra revolutions at each annual. Most older Mooney's I've worked on have been assembled with a variety of wrong screws. Clarence Edited October 6, 2015 by M20Doc Quote
bonal Posted October 6, 2015 Report Posted October 6, 2015 When it's annual time and the screws come out I am always amazed why they used so many different types and you really have to keep them separated in their respective recepticals for the re assembly these 50 plus year old machines are so worn that some times you have to swap screws this one goes in that hole that one goes over there. It's really quite satisfying when you get them all back in. Quote
Marauder Posted October 6, 2015 Report Posted October 6, 2015 Those screws will be about 4-6 threads too long, times 350 screws you'll turn your screwdriver 2800 extra revolutions at each annual.Most older Mooney's I've worked on have been assembled with a variety of wrong screws. Clarence Reading this, it is no wonder many Mooney owners have loose screws. You'd have to be nuts to do an owner assisted annual. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Quote
MB65E Posted October 6, 2015 Report Posted October 6, 2015 The weight of the screws was surprising. Dash S3 and S4 lengths work but they are harder to get the panels threaded initially due to the curve in the panel. I think I put all mine in this year with S4 lengths. I did Knocked some light corrosion off, epoxy primed areas, then a can of Corrosion X in each wing. Needless to say, the wings were opened for a bit. FYI- fwiw, I had a slight crack in a Rib gusset piece in the left wing just outboard of the MLG aft of the spar. Just clicked 4k hrs... -Matt Quote
Guest Posted October 6, 2015 Report Posted October 6, 2015 When it's annual time and the screws come out I am always amazed why they used so many different types and you really have to keep them separated in their respective recepticals for the re assembly these 50 plus year old machines are so worn that some times you have to swap screws this one goes in that hole that one goes over there. It's really quite satisfying when you get them all back in. Someone at Mooney must have had an interest in a screw company, they used just about every type of screw made. Clarence Quote
bonal Posted October 18, 2015 Report Posted October 18, 2015 (edited) Alex Just wondering how it's going and if you got her done yet? Edited October 18, 2015 by bonal Quote
Guitarmaster Posted October 18, 2015 Report Posted October 18, 2015 Someone at Mooney must have had an interest in a screw company, they used just about every type of screw made. Clarence I have often wished I was in the screw business and exclusively contracted with Mooney! I would have retired years ago! Quote
Raptor05121 Posted October 18, 2015 Author Report Posted October 18, 2015 We hit a snag. I'll update the thread later Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk Quote
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