Raptor05121 Posted September 7, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 7, 2015 Progress on the plane- Holy crap are there a lot of screws. We've removed just about every inspection cover. I've degreased A LOT of the belly panels and still have more to do. Air filter was caked with crap. So I cleaned out the filter frame and intake, and have a new filter element ready. ELT battery ordered. All lights work except for white nav light on the tail, so I'll be ordering that today. My IA is ordering new bushings and linkages to the tail as he has found the entire tail ass'y is out of spec.We've also removed the interior. All the 60's shag carpeting is going bye-bye and I'll be installing new carpet here soon. The side panels will be done next year, so I'll have a very mis-matched interior for a while. We still have to remove the rest of the cowling and the rear bench seat. Pictures:My "guard dog" keeping the hangar secure:I'm getting IN THERE!I'm hoping to have the annual completed by the 19th. Should be checked out that weekend, and be able to bore holes in the sky by Oct 1st. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryoder Posted September 7, 2015 Report Share Posted September 7, 2015 Sounds like you are really diggin in. Get the Airtex carpet and strongly consider the side panels too. Those two made my interior smell a lot better and they weigh less due to having less gunk built up over time. The Mooney interior panels are cardboard which holds moisture while the Airtex are plastic boards like you would make a sign out of. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bonal Posted September 7, 2015 Report Share Posted September 7, 2015 Lots of screws for sure. When you realize our planes are basically flying beer cans held together by a thousand screws it's nice to know there is a steel cage around the cabin. You will need to put it up on jacks to check the gear swing and tension. Looks a lot nicer than your first pre buy photos what are you replacing on the tail assembly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bonal Posted September 7, 2015 Report Share Posted September 7, 2015 I think your call sign will be Barefoot mechanic 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raptor05121 Posted September 7, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 7, 2015 Sounds like you are really diggin in. Get the Airtex carpet and strongly consider the side panels too. Those two made my interior smell a lot better and they weigh less due to having less gunk built up over time. The Mooney interior panels are cardboard which holds moisture while the Airtex are plastic boards like you would make a sign out of. I'm just trying to keep this annual as cheap as possible. I am replacing the carpet because the old stuff was wet rotted and coming out in pieces. The side panels may be ugly, but they are still in decent shape for next year. Lots of screws for sure. When you realize our planes are basically flying beer cans held together by a thousand screws it's nice to know there is a steel cage around the cabin. You will need to put it up on jacks to check the gear swing and tension. Looks a lot nicer than your first pre buy photos what are you replacing on the tail assembly. Gear swing is supposed to be today, but I was called into work. I am not sure if my IA is going to be doing this without my help or if he is going to wait for me. He says the gear is good where it is, but it could be readjusted, which I have opted to do. As far as the tail- there is a lot of play in the whole tail. There is something loose/worn out as the control column has no forward (nose down) authority and on landing, we ran out of nose-up trim. I think your call sign will be Barefoot mechanic I like it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carusoam Posted September 7, 2015 Report Share Posted September 7, 2015 Take a poll... my C ran out of nose-up trim as well. Not by much, but it would hit the stops on final approach with flaps down. best regards, -a- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hank Posted September 7, 2015 Report Share Posted September 7, 2015 I rarely land my C with full flaps, and the trim is often around the takeoff setting when I taxi in. my Owners Manual recommends Flaps to Takeoff on downwind, and on final, Flaps Full or as desired, so I put them where I need them to make a good landing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DXB Posted September 7, 2015 Report Share Posted September 7, 2015 Take a poll... my C ran out of nose-up trim as well. Not by much, but it would hit the stops on final approach with flaps down. best regards, -a- I have to trim my C for nose up an awful lot on final with full flaps, but never have come anywhere close to running out of it. Maybe about half way to the stop? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raptor05121 Posted September 7, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 7, 2015 I rarely land my C with full flaps, and the trim is often around the takeoff setting when I taxi in. my Owners Manual recommends Flaps to Takeoff on downwind, and on final, Flaps Full or as desired, so I put them where I need them to make a good landing. I'm typing up a custom checklist right now. From what some searches have found is that 2 pumps gives 15 degrees for takeoff, and likewise for downwind, give the 3rd pump on base, and last pump and a half on final? Anyone know what degree of deflection is each setting or each pump? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DXB Posted September 7, 2015 Report Share Posted September 7, 2015 (edited) I'm typing up a custom checklist right now. From what some searches have found is that 2 pumps gives 15 degrees for takeoff, and likewise for downwind, give the 3rd pump on base, and last pump and a half on final? Anyone know what degree of deflection is each setting or each pump? If memory serves, two pumps is approximately 15 and full flaps is 33. I think there's some normal variability in number of pumps to get to full, from 4 to anything less than 5. Mine actually takes just slightly under 4 full pumps. There's also variability how people use their flaps. I do what you say, starting with 2 pumps once abeam on downwind and trimmed for 90mph, with gear down. Keep in mind each pump requires quite a bit of nose up trim. My transition instructor always dumped in all 4 pumps when on final- when I tried it, it seemed to make me awfully busy stabilizing my approach. The flaps also seem much less effective than on some typical trainers- limited difference in performance between two pumps and 4. Early in transition, I forgot to put the flap release tab down and so inadvertently landed with no flaps. Speed control really wasn't perceptibly harder to me. and my descent angle didn't seem very different. BTW I found it helpful to read a bunch of other people's checklists when making my own, which I continue to tweak. Happy to send you mine if you want to PM me. Keep in mind I have a '68 C so a couple of differences (e.g. fixed cowl flaps). Edited September 7, 2015 by DXB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raptor05121 Posted September 7, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 7, 2015 PM sent, thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryoder Posted September 7, 2015 Report Share Posted September 7, 2015 We can do 2 things. We can install my KX170 and see if it works better. And we can install my brand new MX170 and see if that works if the KX doesn't work well. These are very easy to remove radios . At least that is how I remember it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yetti Posted September 8, 2015 Report Share Posted September 8, 2015 Since you like getting your hands into it. Make your own panels and cut your own carpet. Spend a couple of days getting to know your plane on the inside. Save yourself lots of money 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raptor05121 Posted September 9, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 9, 2015 I'm well into it. The interior is completely gutted. We have found some corrosion under the baggage compartment that will need to be buffed out, but its not a problem. And we've also found the fuel seepage is coming from where the sending unit attaches into the tank. As far as the interior, I see airtex has a carpet interior for only a couple hundred. The side panels and seats will have to do for now. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Fox Posted September 9, 2015 Report Share Posted September 9, 2015 I was flipping through this thread , and I thought the website was screwed up because there is a pic of me in it.. Thanks Chris !! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carusoam Posted September 9, 2015 Report Share Posted September 9, 2015 The magic pants are awfully close as well... Alex, who is sleeping on the hangar floor? best regards, -a- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raptor05121 Posted September 9, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 9, 2015 my red-headed girlfriend. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shadrach Posted September 9, 2015 Report Share Posted September 9, 2015 KX170s are typically pretty bullet proof. They look dated but usually hold up well. You really need to bag that hardware. Your once clean hangar floor is covered. I could not imagine trying use a creeper in there or worse yet sliding around without one. Mooney panels are fastened with a mix of machine and sheet metal screws. You'd do well to keep fasteners with the panels they came from. Go into your next annual with these in hand... http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lot-of-25-50-100-4-x-6-Inches-Sturdy-Cloth-Drawstring-Part-Sample-Bag-Pouch-/391060848027?var=&hash=item5b0d0afd9b Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raptor05121 Posted September 9, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 9, 2015 The mechanic said his plan is to replace the mix of machine and sheetmetal screws with stainless steel screws and put some anti-sieze on them so next year is easier. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shadrach Posted September 9, 2015 Report Share Posted September 9, 2015 That's good, you'll definately want bag those! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bonal Posted September 9, 2015 Report Share Posted September 9, 2015 I like what they use at LASAR cottage cheese tubs with a meter holder you mark each with tape saying the place where they came from very easy to deposit the screw and also to take them out when replacing little bags would do as well but much more difficult to put the screws in and out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob_Belville Posted September 9, 2015 Report Share Posted September 9, 2015 I bought a couple of these storage cases from Harbor freight. The individual boxes are removable to take to/from the plane. If I'm doing a big job, engine removal, I label the boxes using masking tape. http://www.harborfreight.com/19-bin-portable-parts-storage-case-93928.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raptor05121 Posted September 9, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 9, 2015 The remote compass in the tail hasn't worked in 18 years, so we have elected to take it out along with the wiring. I fly with four quite often, so comparing the complexity to diagnose and fix versus having the extra useful load for baggage was a determining factor. We've got scales ready for when we finish the annual and I'm expecting to gain 15 lbs of useful load. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carusoam Posted September 9, 2015 Report Share Posted September 9, 2015 A big comfy creeper sized for miss red could help get fasteners properly cleaned and bagged... i am a big fan of small ziplock bags. Kids in the house seem to have these kind naturally..? fasteners go in each bag, based on the panel they came out of. Damaged fasteners get immediately tossed to keep from wasting more time on them later. I used wd40 sprayed in the ziplock to help clean dirt and oil off the threads... the faster you get to all new SS fasteners, the less time you wil spend on stripped screws. The tinnerman springy locking devices can use some replacements as well. these become awesome memories later in your life... best regards, -a- 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hank Posted September 9, 2015 Report Share Posted September 9, 2015 When I take panels off, I put the screws in a cheap sandwich ziplock baggie and write what it goes to. Generally one each for the belly, left wing, right wing, tail and cowling. doing interior work, I bag screws by the panel--left side, right side, forward ceiling and rear ceiling. When I'm done, throw them away [why I skip brand names and buy cheap baggies!]. My last A&P used cloth drawstring baggies, and hung them on each individual panel. What a pain! Write on the baggie with a sharpie, the same one I use for the oil filter, and put them somewhere out of the way--tail, tool box, shelving, etc. I don't often drop them on the floor, because the baggie opening in large and those little bags are small, screws roll on my fingers and don't go inside. In a shop with multiple planes, write tail number and location in case they get mixed with another plane's baggies. Simple and cheap. KISS forever, and don't forget the 7 Ps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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