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Posted

HI guys

 

I wanted to answer a couple of your questions.

 

If you order using the material that I recommended, shapeways uses an SLS process which uses a laser to bind a plastic powder together.  There is no glue involved in the printing process.  Due to the nature of the process the parts will have a somewhat grainy feel to them when you get them.   This is why I sanded them down slightly and then applied a coat or two of spray paint primer to further smooth the surface.   Also, parts made this way may be somewhat vulnerable to UV exposure.   To help protect against the effects of UV and to provide a nice smooth and shiny finished product, I recommend that after priming that you spray a semi-gloss or glossy clear coat.   You can buy such a clear coat from a hardware store and in addition to the nice finishing properties it will help protect the part from UV.    

 

I fly around 250 hours a year and have had these parts on 4 switches in my plane for over a year with no problems so far.  They don't shift or feel weird in any way.  In any regard, being able to buy these for $3 each and complete them for little more, if one fails in even a few years then it is a good investment vs. the cost of obtaining original parts.

 

@DaV8or, I primarily used Tinkercad to create the model.   I did not do any 3d modeling previously but I do have experience working with cad systems, blueprints, etc.   Including learning how to use the software packages it probably took me around 12 hours and 3 iterations of test prints to get to the end design that fit just right.    

 

To start I wanted to get the base shape to match exactly.  So, I put an original switch sideways on a scanner to get the proper profile.   I imported that scan into Tinkercad.   From there it just needed to be scaled followed by a lot of careful measuring with calipers and adjustments to the whole design to make it match.   

 

To verify the model, I exported it from Tinkercad and then loaded it into netfabb to recheck measurements and to make sure there were no gaps or other errors.   

 

I hope to hear that in addition to solving my own problem that this process helps some other mooney owners too.

  • Like 3
Posted

Nice work,Karl. And thank you for sharing it.

Does anyone know of a process for engraving labels into the plastic, prior to applying the clear finish? That would be nice if there is a way to do it.

I am going to see if I can tinker with the model a little, and create the half-width switches that my plane requires for the Master and Landing Lights.

Posted

Sand and paint it, print your label, trim to suit and apply. Then overspray with clear coat to suit. 2 or 3 coats should suffice.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Karl, great job! I order a few of these and the fit is perfect. I sanded them with 400 grit, painted a couple of coats with SEM paint, used clear labels and sprayed with a clear coat. Very nice. Thank you, lee

Posted

post-6925-0-25999600-1395882625_thumb.jp

This is the switch before the clear coat. The clear coat reduced the visibility of the edges of the clear label stickers. The original switch is on the right.

Lee

  • Like 1
Posted

You do realize there's a typo on your labels? But glad to hear that they work so well for you.

 

How would I tell, without removing them, which of the two switch types I have? Other than that they are black . . . .

Posted
You do realize there's a typo on your labels? But glad to hear that they work so well for you. How would I tell, without removing them, which of the two switch types I have? Other than that they are black . . . .
Hank - all the Klixon switches I have seen have an opaque switch cover. The ETA ones that are white are solid color. What year Mooney? Later Js have ETA. Earlier Js and late model C-F s had the Klixon. Post #11 shows the difference. If they are black, they most likely are ETAs.
Posted

Hank - all the Klixon switches I have seen have an opaque switch cover. The ETA ones that are white are solid color. What year Mooney? Later Js have ETA. Earlier Js and late model C-F s had the Klixon. Post #11 shows the difference. If they are black, they most likely are ETAs.

 

Thanks, B. My C is 1970 all electric, could be "late model." The photos in posts #9 & 11 show the back of the switches, and I'm too far from the plane to remove one. Soon, though . . . I haven't moved any files onto this here new computer yet, either, maybe tomorrow night while it's raining.

Posted

hank, post #16 also shows a details of an ETA rocker which is the one I have.  The differences are subtle, but I was able to tell from the pics which one I have.  I don't know if all the klixon have that "translucent" look, but my ETA covers were "solid" white.

Posted

Here you go Hank... ETA on bottom with black switch cover, Klixon on the top. ysa7eta4.jpg You might be able to tell by the difference in the mounting frame, the ETA has a solid metal frame around the switch a9avenuz.jpg

Posted

attachicon.gifimage.jpg

This is the switch before the clear coat. The clear coat reduced the visibility of the edges of the clear label stickers. The original switch is on the right.

Lee

Hank, I realized the typo after installing the labels but I'm not changing it! Lee

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

I need Klixon and it is my Boost pump cover that is broken.  My nab cover is loose but still hanging on so I would be interested in both covers

Posted

I have contacted the Sensata company directly.

I am hoping to spark some interest with them to support our community, our service companies and our factory.

We are all going to need switch covers. Some sooner than later.

I believe...

Estimated cost of a switch with cover is about $100.

Getting it removed and replaced costs about $100.

Putting on a new $5 plastic cover is quick and easy (pilot/owner type maint?)

Let me know if I missed something. I have the time to follow up on this....

Best regards,

-a-

  • Like 1
Posted

I'm sure they would sell many more at $5-10 than they have been at $100 each. They will need to issue a press release to get the word out, thigh, as everyone already knows about the current unrealistic price.

Posted

If you need just the switch cover, go to the Shapeways website and search for "ETA" it pulls up this version. I received 2 of them last week. Printed out the labels for identification and will sand and clear coat as instructed previously in this thread. Don't know yet how they will last but, you cannot tell the difference in shape and size from the factory cover. The finish is different but it looks very nice. Let you know in a few days how they worked out in my panel.

If you need the entire eta switch, I'm no help to you.

Tim

  • 9 months later...
  • 1 month later...
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

I can't tell - if I order from this link now - will I receive according to print design 2, or the original?

 

You will get what you see when you click the link.   That is the ETA version that I started the thread for.

Posted

You will get what you see when you click the link.   That is the ETA version that I started the thread for.

 

So that is version 1?  I purchased a version one and it does not fit properly.  I want to try a version 2, but can someone please link me to that?

Posted

I can't tell - if I order from this link now - will I receive according to print design 2, or the original?

Erik -- let me help. I wasn't sure what Karl's involvement was either. Karl has taken the time to design just the ETA version of the covers.

If you have the Klixon style (see post 16 above), then use this link: http://shpws.me/GtHn

It appears he makes them in different colors. The issue I see is that you can't tell which version you will get and also whether or not the current version will give you the snug fit. The maker of the Klixon type is a guy named Jason. I am sending him a note requesting more information.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

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