Mooney-Shiner

First off, I just want to say thank you to everyone on Mooneyspace for all the help over the years. I’ve learned a ton from this forum and it has saved me from making more than a few mistakes. I recently installed a JPI EDM-900 in my 1967 M20F, and I noticed that the unit tracks both tach time and Hobbs time. Up until now my airplane never had a Hobbs meter, so all of my engine logs only reference tach time and SMOH. The tach currently shows 1788.43, with ~932 hours SMOH. My question is: What should I program into the JPI for the Hobbs time? Should I just start Hobbs at 0, or try to estimate what it might have been historically? Also, does Hobbs really matter if all maintenance and logbook entries have historically been tracked using tach time? Curious what others have done in this situation. Thanks again for all the collective knowledge here.

Unless we can use "owner produced" justification to say that the new item is a group buy that is "similar" to the diaphragm on vac- servo? The install will be completed with owner punching a center hole for the chain bolt. I got your POC from Kevin and will shoot you a txt this morning.

What is the part number of sigma tek vacuum switch? Can't see the last numbers on the photo

Yes, I called him. He was awesome, but not sure about the material and blueprint info.

Do you know what material did they use? I can see it says "nitrile," but wondering if it was specific kind of nitrile? Do you have blueprint of the items? I'm about making a custom order as well.

Perfect! I will look the weighing procedure in the SMM. From SMM:

Bringing this thread from the dead because also planning on calibrating my new CIES fuel senders. How do you know when the airplane is leveled? Do I need to put a construction level inside the cabin floor to know that I'm leveled?

Hopefully, we can get more people!

To prevent the new sealant from clogging the drain holes on the sump.

Anyone wants to get another order going? I think we can figure out how to do a group buy of 80% complete boots that look just like Brittain, leaving room for the owner to do another 20%(cutting a top hole for example). This way it will be legal "owner produced part." I'm sure we could order them at $20 a boot if the order will be big enough.

I'm pretty sure that we could have get enough folks to commit to get to $2K min. Or order it from overseas and make it even cheaper.

Some day, we will figure out how to do a group buy of 80% complete boots that look just like Brittain, leaving room for the owner to do another 20%(cutting a hole for example). This way it will be legal "owner produced part." I'm sure we could order them at $20 a boot if the order will be big enough.

Thank you! It seems that all of the shieldings are to be grounded at the panel. Does anyone have a photo what this grounding should look like? Is there a bus to ground everything?

Thank you for all the useful information on the thread. I’m doing a dry fit right now without the trim. But I’m not sure if I like how the bolt and nut is rubbing against the window. What would you guys recommend?

Vance, thank you for such an in-depth explanation. I tracked down the speaker issue, and it turned out to be an accidentally disconnected spade connector on the speaker. After reconnecting it, the speaker works exactly as it did before. To answer your points: the shielding on the wire is used on the LO side of the speaker and is tied into the panel/frame ground, while the main conductor is used as the HI lead running straight back to the audio panel. Even though this setup has technically been working, it’s clearly not the correct way to wire it, so I’ll need to redo the speaker wiring properly. Thank you for catching that. What type of wire would you recommend for the rewire? And thanks again to you and everyone here for the phenomenal support.